dutchie
Pro
hello everyone , my first post and this is a great site for info
at last i'm going to pick up a new sled to me , been a few years since i did some riding or had a sled , after all my searching and looking at differant makes , i have come down to a good deal on a 2010 nytro mtx with very low miles
a couple questions , i tried the search and could not find a link to this ,
1 am i to understand that if the sled 2010 nytro mtx rolls over that it will shut off from loss of oil pressure
2 also is it a good ideal to have one of them fall off straps that shut the motor down asap installed , i don't want to hurt the sled with any damage
any other advice on what i should do first when i get it home
i'm so looking forward to this mountain riding , live close to the rockies and great sledding area
thanks
at last i'm going to pick up a new sled to me , been a few years since i did some riding or had a sled , after all my searching and looking at differant makes , i have come down to a good deal on a 2010 nytro mtx with very low miles
a couple questions , i tried the search and could not find a link to this ,
1 am i to understand that if the sled 2010 nytro mtx rolls over that it will shut off from loss of oil pressure
2 also is it a good ideal to have one of them fall off straps that shut the motor down asap installed , i don't want to hurt the sled with any damage
any other advice on what i should do first when i get it home
i'm so looking forward to this mountain riding , live close to the rockies and great sledding area
thanks
If it rolls over running it will dump all the oil out and you will be left stranded. The right fix is a Roll over valve from OFT. It is so incredibly easy to just plug in and you will also have the added safety of a tether. Something all mountain riders should have.
The other option is to always cary a quart of oil and make sure the sled is shut down asap when upside down. I did this the first season, the first option is a far better one.
The other option is to always cary a quart of oil and make sure the sled is shut down asap when upside down. I did this the first season, the first option is a far better one.
Mtnviper
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Welcome to the site dutchie.
Yes there is a low oil pressure shut down system on Nytros. The oil pressure sender is located near the oil filter on the back side of the engine block. The sensor wire goes to the ECU.
The way that the circuit works, is the sensor grounds the signal wire when oil pressure drops to near zero psi (Yamaha does not list the spec in the service manual)
If the ECU detects an open circuit in the oil pressure sender signal wire, (due to defective sensor or dis-connected/broken wire) a trouble code 85 will display on the gauge.
Once the engine is running, if the ECU detects that the signal wire is grounded (due to a loss of oil pressure, bad sensor, or signal wire shorted to ground) the ECU shuts down the engine and displays a trouble code 30 on the gauge.
How effective it is depends on what the engine operating conditions are when the pressure drops to zero. If the engine is just idling, it works well and prevents engine damage in most cases.
If you have the throttle to the bar and all of the sudden you loose oil pressure, the engine will still shut down. However because of the high load/high rpm, there is an extremely good chance that rod/main bearing damage has occured.
Like most Yamaha four strokes, keep the fluids topped off and Nytro engines will last for a very long time
If you are new to mountain riding? Some tips to remember would be,
Carry and avy probe, shovel, wear a beacon, and take an avy class.
Riding with exprienced fellow mountain riders is good, most guys are willing to help a fellow sledder learn the ropes!
I like to wear a backpack with a first aid kit, rope, food/water, waterproof matches, dry socks, gloves, etc
Check the avy and weather reports before you leave and tell your family/friends where your going and what time you plan on being back.
Have fun!
Bill
Yes there is a low oil pressure shut down system on Nytros. The oil pressure sender is located near the oil filter on the back side of the engine block. The sensor wire goes to the ECU.
The way that the circuit works, is the sensor grounds the signal wire when oil pressure drops to near zero psi (Yamaha does not list the spec in the service manual)
If the ECU detects an open circuit in the oil pressure sender signal wire, (due to defective sensor or dis-connected/broken wire) a trouble code 85 will display on the gauge.
Once the engine is running, if the ECU detects that the signal wire is grounded (due to a loss of oil pressure, bad sensor, or signal wire shorted to ground) the ECU shuts down the engine and displays a trouble code 30 on the gauge.
How effective it is depends on what the engine operating conditions are when the pressure drops to zero. If the engine is just idling, it works well and prevents engine damage in most cases.
If you have the throttle to the bar and all of the sudden you loose oil pressure, the engine will still shut down. However because of the high load/high rpm, there is an extremely good chance that rod/main bearing damage has occured.
Like most Yamaha four strokes, keep the fluids topped off and Nytro engines will last for a very long time
If you are new to mountain riding? Some tips to remember would be,
Carry and avy probe, shovel, wear a beacon, and take an avy class.
Riding with exprienced fellow mountain riders is good, most guys are willing to help a fellow sledder learn the ropes!
I like to wear a backpack with a first aid kit, rope, food/water, waterproof matches, dry socks, gloves, etc
Check the avy and weather reports before you leave and tell your family/friends where your going and what time you plan on being back.
Have fun!
Bill
dutchie
Pro
thanks for the replies guys , i got the sled home tonight , was just to good a deal to pass on , only has 250 klms or 150 miles on it , she's yamaha blue in colour and says special edition on it , don't seem any differant then any i have seen , maybe because the front arms painted blue ??
i saved myself a good bunch of money on a used nytro that's mint and the guy had a bunch of extra's added when he first bought it , some i'll keep and some i'll trade or sell off ,
he added to the sled , a left throttle , block heater, heavy duty front bumper with a full under float plate , looks like one from them skinzs guys
, plus he had these but never installed them so he also threw in a rear rack , extra big windshield with little side ones , a new spare belt , and a new rear heavy duty bumper
i'm not going to go crazy into the mountains first off , i'll learn the sled and i think by next winter i'll be ready for some good hill climbing , i want to take my time and work into it , plus during the summer and fall when i have time i'll start adding some goodies onto it , might even have to get myself a turbo for them hills ,
after seeing all the sweet sleds on here , oh man you guys have good taste in your builds , showed my wife the picture last night of the guys build with the babe on the front with the double pistols , that was cool for a sled
this gives me time , plus i'll take a avy class , already looked into that , and i'll get myself some good rescue kit , hope to god never to have to use it , and even if i have to pay a guide for a few days out , it would be money well worth it in my eyes , i have a good friend who used to do it all and he'll set me straight
talked to a yamaha tech guy today and he said he wouldn't even change the oil yet as so low miles , even if it was in a heated shed for a year and not touched ,
i'll go over all the fluids and grease it befor the coming weekend , check the air in the float shocks , read the book would be a good ideal before i just start ripping across the country
looking up to hanging out on this site and learning from all you guys who love yamaha's , and if i ask anything stupid for questions , be easy on me ok
i saved myself a good bunch of money on a used nytro that's mint and the guy had a bunch of extra's added when he first bought it , some i'll keep and some i'll trade or sell off ,
he added to the sled , a left throttle , block heater, heavy duty front bumper with a full under float plate , looks like one from them skinzs guys
, plus he had these but never installed them so he also threw in a rear rack , extra big windshield with little side ones , a new spare belt , and a new rear heavy duty bumper
i'm not going to go crazy into the mountains first off , i'll learn the sled and i think by next winter i'll be ready for some good hill climbing , i want to take my time and work into it , plus during the summer and fall when i have time i'll start adding some goodies onto it , might even have to get myself a turbo for them hills ,
after seeing all the sweet sleds on here , oh man you guys have good taste in your builds , showed my wife the picture last night of the guys build with the babe on the front with the double pistols , that was cool for a sled
this gives me time , plus i'll take a avy class , already looked into that , and i'll get myself some good rescue kit , hope to god never to have to use it , and even if i have to pay a guide for a few days out , it would be money well worth it in my eyes , i have a good friend who used to do it all and he'll set me straight
talked to a yamaha tech guy today and he said he wouldn't even change the oil yet as so low miles , even if it was in a heated shed for a year and not touched ,
i'll go over all the fluids and grease it befor the coming weekend , check the air in the float shocks , read the book would be a good ideal before i just start ripping across the country
looking up to hanging out on this site and learning from all you guys who love yamaha's , and if i ask anything stupid for questions , be easy on me ok
tapex_07
TY 4 Stroke Master
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Yes get the Roll Over Valve from OFT and their steering relocator. I would also suggest the Roest skid plate, as the stock cover for the "oil pan" is just plastic and can easily be damaged.
PM either "scmurs" or MotoPsycho" for OFT goods.
http://www.mountaintechindustries.com/ for the skid plate.
PM either "scmurs" or MotoPsycho" for OFT goods.
http://www.mountaintechindustries.com/ for the skid plate.
loudelectronics
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Doesnt mtnviper make a rollover valve as well?
Mtnviper
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loudelectronics said:
Yes I do, I'm the guy who invented them and currently have I patent pending for roll-over valves. I started working on the idea back when my buddy bought a new Phazer and while out on a ride rolled it and lost 2 quarts of oil. Then when I bought my Nytro, it became my full time test sled for R+D work on roll-over valves! (I've been known to tip it over a time or two
Scott and I have a licensing agreement set-up that allows OFT to market a ROV kit with they're tether switch set-up.
While I make the Four Stroke Solutions version with the option for the electronic control module.
Both are great products and offer different options to the customer for a roll-over valves
Bill
Yamaha has a roll over valve in thier catalog now.
dutchie
Pro
went over the sled from front to back , almost ready to take it out for my first rip
one question i like to know and seek advice on ,
what should i add in the shocks for air pressure , don't say in the book , just says the total amount not to go over , like 200 psi
front shocks should be the same of course , but what amount do most of you's put in ?? 65 psi , i weigh about 215 lbs
center shock ??? & the rear shock ??? ,
i will for the first bunch of rides have my wife on and she's maybe 125 pounds soaking wet
all shocks were low , maybe from sitting for the last couple years ,
thanks
one question i like to know and seek advice on ,
what should i add in the shocks for air pressure , don't say in the book , just says the total amount not to go over , like 200 psi
front shocks should be the same of course , but what amount do most of you's put in ?? 65 psi , i weigh about 215 lbs
center shock ??? & the rear shock ??? ,
i will for the first bunch of rides have my wife on and she's maybe 125 pounds soaking wet
all shocks were low , maybe from sitting for the last couple years ,
thanks
bholmlate
Expert
Maddog
Wonder where they got the idea the 4 strokes needed one. I few forward thinking individuals who rode yamaha's I bet
Hmmm Who would of thought that you actually might need to roll a mountain sled on its side once and awhile. Good to hear they are finally stepping up and addressing the issue most of us already knew about for quit some time now.
Wonder where they got the idea the 4 strokes needed one. I few forward thinking individuals who rode yamaha's I bet
Hmmm Who would of thought that you actually might need to roll a mountain sled on its side once and awhile. Good to hear they are finally stepping up and addressing the issue most of us already knew about for quit some time now.
tapex_07
TY 4 Stroke Master
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Dutchie,
I liked 65-70ish fronts and like 145-55 rear.. If it was just me in deeper pow/off trail, I would lower the pressures 10psi.. Make sure to have the sled in the air while adjusting psi rates.
I liked 65-70ish fronts and like 145-55 rear.. If it was just me in deeper pow/off trail, I would lower the pressures 10psi.. Make sure to have the sled in the air while adjusting psi rates.
BordnBill
Expert
I run my fronts at 65 and my rear at 90 and 135.
Mtnviper
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I run 65 psi in the front also. Softer pressures then that, sled feels like I'm riding on a beach ball (dives side to side). Higher pressures it is more stable on the trail, but not as easy to side hill with.
Rears 80 and 120-130psi, it is a Timbersled rear skid though so it's a little different then your stock 2010 MTX skid.
Generally speaking the rear shock pressure is adjusted for rider weight, ride height, and desired ride quality. While the front skid shock has more effect on rear suspension weight transfer, front ski pressure, and track approach angle to some degree depending on snow density.
There are some exceptions to this and each shock can effect how the other shocks perform.
Snow conditions can have a great effect on suspension performance. For example in deep bottomless powder, it's usually better to run lower air pressures in the front skid shock. This allows the front of the skid to compress more easily which reduces the track approach angle, which in turn helps reduce trenching in deep powder.
In firm heavy set-up snow, you can run a higher pressure in the front skid shock. This allows the rear skid to transfer more, which in turn increases traction, transfers some of the weight from the front end to the rear skid and reduces steering effort.
Rears 80 and 120-130psi, it is a Timbersled rear skid though so it's a little different then your stock 2010 MTX skid.
Generally speaking the rear shock pressure is adjusted for rider weight, ride height, and desired ride quality. While the front skid shock has more effect on rear suspension weight transfer, front ski pressure, and track approach angle to some degree depending on snow density.
There are some exceptions to this and each shock can effect how the other shocks perform.
Snow conditions can have a great effect on suspension performance. For example in deep bottomless powder, it's usually better to run lower air pressures in the front skid shock. This allows the front of the skid to compress more easily which reduces the track approach angle, which in turn helps reduce trenching in deep powder.
In firm heavy set-up snow, you can run a higher pressure in the front skid shock. This allows the rear skid to transfer more, which in turn increases traction, transfers some of the weight from the front end to the rear skid and reduces steering effort.
BordnBill
Expert
On my sled, I am running a Timbersled skid as well, so yes, it may be a different pressure than you would run in a stock MTX Skid. I'm also running Fett Canisters up front, so I can run a little higher psi in front too.
BordnBill
Expert
On my sled, I am running a Timbersled skid as well, so yes, it may be a different pressure than you would run in a stock MTX Skid. I'm also running Fett Canisters up front, so I can run a little higher psi in front too.
