all balls bearings

smoothride

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last year change jackshaft an drive shaft bears.put 3000 miles on my sled. the two all balls bearings are toast. order two new bearings from yamaha for this year. will not ever put all balls bearings in my sled again. the jackshaft bearing was pitted on the inside. i was a cheap bearing i guest. so glade i check my sled over.
 
Did the same with my TRX420 front bearings.They only lasted a month and had to replace them with Honda OEM bearings.All balls bearings are garbage.Glad i never put them in my sled.
 
I've always heard Yamaha Bearings are the best and not to use the after market ones. I guess lesson learned. There are less costly ways (in the long run) to scrimp on and save some cash, but for bearings buy the stock ones from the dealer.
 
Bearings like anyhting come in the cheep or the expensive. SKF, FAG, All-balls, NTN, etc... can and will work, all you need to do is look into the bearing life expectency... yes the cheeps one will not last as long, but if you have 3000 miles on bearings that have inadequate grease/maintenance or just where they are operating in(driveshaft speedo side), plays a huge role in bearing life. For driveline, because of the power of these things i run a higher quality, with a good fit for purpose grease with a routine mileage maintenance. But in the idler wheels, i go for the cheep, because of service. they are gonna get changed every year so why not spend less where i can.

this is a prime example of why i drilled a very small hole in my jackshaft and speedo bearing seals... the grease that come in them... well it sucks... so adding a good water resistant grease every 500-1000 miles will make those "crap" bearings last twice as long, and makes the good one's run for a longggggg time. Both my apex's have over 10000 miles on each and have original jackshaft bearings.
 
Some of the bearings in the all balls kit i used on my sled was the exact same as the oem ones. Same part nr. Same manufacturer. So cant see why they should be worse than the yama ones..

I believe it was two of the bearings in the kit.. the others were all balls.
 
Ordered bearings from Royal for my track change. When I replaced the originals the driveshaft bearings where still doing fine (8,000 miles service). One jackshaft bearing (clutch side) questionable.

Changed them all while it was apart. 5,000 miles later the speedo quits driveshaft bearing gone along with the speedo sensor and bearing retainer. So I order all new bearings from Yamaha.

Upon disassembly I find the top bearing in the chaincase and the bottom driveshaft bearing have rough spots on them. Now the toyo (Yamaha) bearings lasted longer then the NTN's. Never had problems with NTN bearings in the past but the toyo bearings seemed to last longer.

So I know the toyo's are Japanese! Question is who is building the NTN's?
 
sherlock29 said:
Bearings like anyhting come in the cheep or the expensive. SKF, FAG, All-balls, NTN, etc... can and will work, all you need to do is look into the bearing life expectency... yes the cheeps one will not last as long, but if you have 3000 miles on bearings that have inadequate grease/maintenance or just where they are operating in(driveshaft speedo side), plays a huge role in bearing life. For driveline, because of the power of these things i run a higher quality, with a good fit for purpose grease with a routine mileage maintenance. But in the idler wheels, i go for the cheep, because of service. they are gonna get changed every year so why not spend less where i can.

this is a prime example of why i drilled a very small hole in my jackshaft and speedo bearing seals... the grease that come in them... well it sucks... so adding a good water resistant grease every 500-1000 miles will make those "crap" bearings last twice as long, and makes the good one's run for a longggggg time. Both my apex's have over 10000 miles on each and have original jackshaft bearings.

Sherlock, just curious how small of a hole it is you drill, I also assume you use a needle to fill them up?
Do you find this works as well as removing the seals annually and adding grease that way?
Personally I would think the grease would seep/ooze out the hole you drilled, does that happen or does the majority of it stay there?
 
I think just getting new grease in there, no matter how you accomplish it, is key. I annually remove the seals on jackshaft and speedo bearings, rinse them out with WD-40, let them dry overnight, and then re-grease them and put the seals back on. Just like Rockerdan's thread!
 
Hey Irv, Hole is small... forget the size but 3/64 th's is ringin a bell. And yes with a neddle tip on the grease gun. Grease pretty much stays in... I find more grease seeps out past seal than thru the hole i drilled, but that has to do with amount i put in. Have been doing this since the first year I bought my first.... just was always used to having grease fittings in these areas.

And as super sled stated... i still pull seals and check bearings in the summer. I've had good luck doing this, but still water gets in and i keep spare bearings on the shelf for chain case and driveshaft.
 
sherlock29 said:
Hey Irv, Hole is small... forget the size but 3/64 th's is ringin a bell. And yes with a neddle tip on the grease gun. Grease pretty much stays in... I find more grease seeps out past seal than thru the hole i drilled, but that has to do with amount i put in. Have been doing this since the first year I bought my first.... just was always used to having grease fittings in these areas.

And as super sled stated... i still pull seals and check bearings in the summer. I've had good luck doing this, but still water gets in and i keep spare bearings on the shelf for chain case and driveshaft.

Thanks for the info Sherlock, what grease do you normally use?
 


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