Nitrousman1
Expert
Got my Ulmer bushings and I was hoping there were some online instructions I could look at before I head out to the garage. Are they pretty easy to change out? Thanks.
shadow44
TY 4 Stroke God
I don't have any pics but with the help of a good friend and member...raptordan..we got mine done in under 2 hours. all of the panels have to come off..ALL of them...even the belly...after that it's pretty straight forward..you'll need a couple of 14mm wrenches. the stcok bushings are kindof a PITA to get out.
Nitrousman1
Expert
So I'll need to pull off my skid plate too? Did you just use a chisel to knock the old one's out? Mine are pretty toasted so there's probably not much left of them. Thanks.
shadow44
TY 4 Stroke God
Just a flathead screwdriver to get the bushings out...they kinda break and then you just pry them out..not that bad to get'em out. I took everything off but I have an 09 sub frame and there is a different brace or plate that interfeared with the lower a-arm rear nut and bolt, so we had to.
mach9
TY 4 Stroke Master
I just did this job on my 09.
Since I was doing an oil change the skid plate was off.
All lower plastics were off, except I left the steering arm boots on.
But they pull down so you can get a wrench in the low rear spot.
The frame was up on jack stands.
Once you have the arms off, tap the old bushings out from the inside with a long punch or dirver for the upper arm. Lower arms are easy with a short punch. Do this by getting on the edge of the bushing inside.
Getting the new bushings in.
Tapped lightly with a dead blow rubber hammer to get them started then used a vice with hard wood jaws to press them in all the way.
Since I was doing an oil change the skid plate was off.
All lower plastics were off, except I left the steering arm boots on.
But they pull down so you can get a wrench in the low rear spot.
The frame was up on jack stands.
Once you have the arms off, tap the old bushings out from the inside with a long punch or dirver for the upper arm. Lower arms are easy with a short punch. Do this by getting on the edge of the bushing inside.
Getting the new bushings in.
Tapped lightly with a dead blow rubber hammer to get them started then used a vice with hard wood jaws to press them in all the way.
Nikolai
TY 4 Stroke God
On the thin oil lites(for the upper a-arm bushings) be extra careful when tapping on them, it's easy to crack the flanges. I prefer to use a small press.
stopdropanroll
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Use a 3/8 socket extension to drive them out, it wont leave any gouges in the shaft. I used a couple of peices of 1/4 MDF (smooth wood) to zip tie to a vise then pressed them in, worked great.
Nitrousman1
Expert
Thanks, I'll probably hold off until the weekend to start on it and maybe install my new track at the same time.
mach9
TY 4 Stroke Master
Nikolai said:On the thin oil lites(for the upper a-arm bushings) be extra careful when tapping on them, it's easy to crack the flanges. I prefer to use a small press.
Noted... the 09 uses all the same size thicker bushings upper and lower.


nate007
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Just remember to put locktite on the bolts when you put it back together!!! They will work loose!

2008FxNytro
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nate007 said:Just remember to put locktite on the bolts when you put it back together!!! They will work loose!
X2 and then will oblong holes and you will have a mess.
arteeex
TY 4 Stroke Master
If the bolts are working loose it may be that the length of the a-arm cross tube plus the bushing shoulder thicknesses is greater than the length of the inner-tube section that the bearings run on. The bolt should be drawing up tight on this inner-tube section and providing an axle for the a-arm to pivot around. If the bolt is drawing up tight on the a-arm cross section, after a time the bearings will wear or seat deeper and leave the bolt loose. When you tighten the a-arm you should feel just a slight bit of axial play to know that the a-arm is able to rotate without restriction on the inner-tube section.
Because the lower a-arms have nuts on each bolt this more of an issue with the uppers.
Clear as mud, right?
Because the lower a-arms have nuts on each bolt this more of an issue with the uppers.
Clear as mud, right?
Nitrousman1
Expert
Thanks, I'll keep an eye on it when I put it back together. Should I replace the chain while I have it all a part for the track install? Do they tend to break on a boosted sled? As far as I know its had 2 years on boost with this chain on it at around 3000 miles total.
What are the torque specs for the front a arms? took mine off for powder coating and bushings. cant find torques for all the bolts. dont want stuff to come loose..........
marsh14
Expert
Are they covered under warranty?
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