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Any advise on RA cable please?

Metallicat

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
Feb 9, 2007
Messages
1,796
Location
Northville, MI
I told myself that I would never again replace the RA cable after it broke for the 4th time. Well, last week I sure could have used it on the bombed out trails in the lower UP (not yet groomed). So I ask the best and the brightest here for suggestions on how to properly route a new cable so that it lasts more than 500 miles while the suspension is all iced over. I know BOP has an elimination option, but I want the remote dial to work like it was intended to, to adjust on the fly. Thank you all!
 

I feel your pain. Unfortunately, the RA cable was a huge design flaw. Time to set your shock where you like it most, and ditch that cable in the garbage where it belongs.
 
I fear that will be the overwhelming response to my question. I did set my shock to where I like it. Full soft with the Pioneer revalve. It is great on groomed trails and in the stutters and such. 90 percent of the time it is great. But on bombed out trails it sucks big time and my sled bottoms HARD way too often. The cable somehow lasted 3000 miles during my first year of ownership. Now maybe 500 miles, even using the newer cables with and without the front arm rubber boot.
 
The RA controls shock rebound only, so it controls how fast the shock returns from being compressed. If your sled is slapping you on the a$$ on bombed out trails it is set too soft. Suspension bottoming is controlled primarily the spring pre-load on the mono-shock, if you are bottoming hard on the whoops, you need to increase the pre-load and/or move the adjustment collar up if you have run out of ramp positions.
 
The RA controls shock rebound only, so it controls how fast the shock returns from being compressed. If your sled is slapping you on the a$$ on bombed out trails it is set too soft. Suspension bottoming is controlled primarily the spring pre-load on the mono-shock, if you are bottoming hard on the whoops, you need to increase the pre-load and/or move the adjustment collar up if you have run out of ramp positions.

That is mostly true with the stock setup. But I had my shock revalved so that the RA dial is more compression biased than rebound.
 
Ok, I'm a "man on a mission" now to find a way myself to get a new RA cable to last more than 500 miles. 3000 is my goal. Will I successfully find a way? No idea, but I am willing to work with it and invest some time and $ to find out!
 
Would you consider a knob on the shock? I have substituted these now instead of the key tool. It simply threads on to the shock and works pretty slick. I still provide my key chain so guys know what way to turn it, and block off plate is still included in the kit for $35.

IMG_1540.jpg
 
Yes, I'll just order one of those. Thank you Travis.

I have not updated the website with these new adjusters. If you order online just make a note of your TY name are so I know its you and its ok to send the new adjuster.
 
I have not updated the website with these new adjusters. If you order online just make a note of your TY name are so I know its you and its ok to send the new adjuster.

Thank you Travis. I may not ride again this year, kid #3 will be born any day now. But I will certainly order your new shock dial. It is exactly what these sleds need!
 
Update. My shock needs to be rebuilt. Yesterday I unloaded my sled and moved it into the garage. I stood on the back bumper to see if it felt too soft. Nope. Stiff! And it would not rebound so it has ingested some moisture and is now a bit frozen. At any rate, I'll send it out for a rebuild and will top it off with the new BOP dial.
 
The knurled knob design is actually offered by kimpex. I'm simply just supplying it with the block off plate and key chain.
 
Are these Kimpex units made of corrosion resistant material such as stainless steel? The knob looks like it is fairly exposed and could get knocked off with a chunk of ice maybe.
Great idea, not bashing it, just would be concerned with corrosion/damage over time.
 
I put the Kimpex adjuster on my 2014 Apex, it's a nicely made aluminum part with a sealing washer inside, nicely sized so you can turn it with a glove on, just turn it in the opposite direction as the tunnel knob. You do have to turn your shock around so it faces down. Nice to get rid of that whole ice collector mechanism, I removed everything including the bracket and made a simple block off plate for the hole. One thing to watch for is that it does fit close to the W arm, I made up a washer to shim my shock over a little (there is quite a bit of side movement in the shock to work with) and I ground off a little extra clearance from the W arm. Makes the whole thing simpler like the last Vector mono shock sleds that got rid of the tunnel adjuster.
 


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