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Anybody using the new fully synthetic Yamalube?

Blue Dave

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'17 Sidewinder LTX DX
I see that there is now a fully synthetic Yamalube 0w-40. Has anybody used this oil? I have 1700 miles on my sled, is that enough to switch to fully synthetic?
 

Sure you could change to synthetics now. I wouldn't go to a 40 weight however, unless you like less HP. I don't know why Yamaha would want a 40 weight in their sleds. Four strokes run faster and make more HP with lighter weight oils, at least until the wear gets too great when the parts start hitting each other. Don't go any heavier than a 30 weight. Some are even running a 20 weight now. I'm going to Mobil 1 0w-20 and will be doing some used oil sampling if I can get out and ride before neck surgery this winter.
 
Thanks for the reply Mike. Just out of curiosity, how much of HP difference would there be between a 0W-30 and a 0W-40 oil?
 
Good news! I didn't know that there is a fully synthetic Yamalube 0w-40. The question is why 0w-40 not 0w-30? Anybody know?
 
maybe they are compensating for fuel dilution. polaris P+ is 5w40 but the compensate for fuel getting into the oil and diluting it so when its running its realy turns to 0w30.
 
Blue Dave said:
I see that there is now a fully synthetic Yamalube 0w-40. Has anybody used this oil? I have 1700 miles on my sled, is that enough to switch to fully synthetic?

Same question here, I just read the article that Metallicat posted, and am wondering if switching to a full-synthetic after my 500 mile break-in would be to soon.
 
GIMME SNOW, IMO it would be to soon. I'd shoot for over 1500-2000 miles anyway. Dino oil will certainly not harm your engine. Full break in takes some time. They really start to run around 2000 miles.


Blue Dave, I have never dynoed the difference. I did change oil once on my RX-1 to a 5-40 and could tell the sled did not have decent response and just seemed to be a dog. Sure enough, I couldn't beat my friends Ski-Doo 800 like I was earlier in the week. He would just drive away from me. On the same day, I came home and dropped the 5-40 out and installed 5-30 while he waited, only took 15 minutes or so. Took them back out and its power came right back for my RX-1 and I was now able to drive away from him. I would have never though it would have made that much of a drop in power, even my friend was stunned it made such a big difference. It would seem like 10 HP, even though I know I know it couldn't have been more than 3 or 4 HP. I just knew that that the 40 weight oil just flattened and dulled the performance, and I would never try that again. These Yamaha's just don't need that thick of an oil for protection, I don't care what anyones says, you just can't argue with a used oil analysis. If you want oil info guys go to

www.bobistheoilguy.com

and go to the forums. You'll read for days and become informed about oil.
 
funny...about a year ago...they were all making fun at me for wanting to use 0w-20....telling me I was crazy..no gain in a dry sump system...I knew better..
now ulmer is using gibbs 20 weight and others are seeing the benefit as well...mobil one 0w-20 is what I will run this year and besides the less resistance/h.p. perceived or real beneifts....it flows to critical engine parts faster...
 
I'm going to try 0w40 Mobil 1. I've been using 0w30 Mobil 1 and find I use more oil then I'd like. .I don't care about a little top end lose or power lose. It may be my driving habits.
I had a modded 74 Blazer 350 with a mild cam and Chev's after market heads. It used oil more then anything I owned. Of course I took it into the Sand Dunes on Cape Cod when it was legal to ride the dunes as well as the beach which was taxing. Anyway I tried 20w50 Castrol and found it usde far less.
This Blazer I owned for 14 years and was used for years after for plowing out local drives.
 
the yammy dealer here wants $21 per liter for fully syn, currently running amsoil 4 stroke 0w40...trying to find some syn 0w20 to see if there is a performance gain...
 
Go with Mobil 1 0-20. You can find it in Walmart at a good price.Royal purple and Redline also make good 5-20's but are more expensive. I have been using the Mobil 1 for over 2000mi now. Throttle response is better with these thinner oils.
 
Can you guys really feel the difference in power from just changing to fully synthetic oil? I would think that any real world difference in HP would be minimal and hard to detect while riding.
 
well i know with the royal purple in my truck, the motor takes twice as long to heat up. means there is less friction and in my book that means longer part life.
 


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