ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
If it rusts to the shaft, don't pry too hard between the bearing and the drive sprocket.
A buddy of mine called me over to his place to help him with this problem. Unfortunately he had already moved the drive sprocket inwards from prying so we had to pull the track and drive shaft in order to move the sprocket back into place (and had to make up a tool to do that too since we didn't have a press handy).
We also ended up carefully cutting through the bearing with a saws-all in order to get it off. This was after pulling the chaincase and sliding the axle out the PTO side as far as possible so we could get the saws-all to the bearing.
I've also removed them before, cutting through the rusted on bearing with a small hand saw. It took almost an hour, but I figure it was better than removing the track.
Since then, I always coat the shaft and inside of the bearing with anti-seize compound. Now the bearing slips off right away and I can always change them in about 15 minutes total.
One thing to note is you have to actually remove the set screws, not just loosen them. They can hit the tunnel bearing retainer if you don't take them out.
I also always use purple loctite on the set screws too make sure they don't loosen off.
A buddy of mine called me over to his place to help him with this problem. Unfortunately he had already moved the drive sprocket inwards from prying so we had to pull the track and drive shaft in order to move the sprocket back into place (and had to make up a tool to do that too since we didn't have a press handy).
We also ended up carefully cutting through the bearing with a saws-all in order to get it off. This was after pulling the chaincase and sliding the axle out the PTO side as far as possible so we could get the saws-all to the bearing.
I've also removed them before, cutting through the rusted on bearing with a small hand saw. It took almost an hour, but I figure it was better than removing the track.
Since then, I always coat the shaft and inside of the bearing with anti-seize compound. Now the bearing slips off right away and I can always change them in about 15 minutes total.
One thing to note is you have to actually remove the set screws, not just loosen them. They can hit the tunnel bearing retainer if you don't take them out.
I also always use purple loctite on the set screws too make sure they don't loosen off.
S pump
Extreme
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I put just a little heat to it and it slid off after 7000 miles........put a screwdriver(big flat) between the bearing collar and driver collar with the sled up on it's side and it's real easy.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
S pump said:
If the bearing is rusted on the shaft it is also "real easy" to slide the drive sprocket inwards and out of position - instead of sliding the bearing off.
I've also seen drive sprockes melt at the shaft when someone heated the shaft to help remove the bearing. The plastic drive sprocket doesn't like heat and the bearing is almost touching it.
These are both things that I have seen, not just heard of.
insane
Expert
Where can I find an xploded diagram and some step by step for the speedo bearing? I get nervous working on this technological marvel. This site is one of the best parts of owning a Yamaha.
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
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- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... ht=bearing
here are some pics of the regrease....this may help to see what it all looks like....
Dan
here are some pics of the regrease....this may help to see what it all looks like....
Dan
insane
Expert
Just what I needed to see bud. Thanks a ton.
