shawnj
Expert
Anyone have a trick to remove the clutch side jackshaft bearing without removing anything on chaincase side. On a Apex. Thanks
MNBlizzard
Expert
Not possible without cutting the frame away...pull the chaincase.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
MNBlizzard said:
Sounds like it is possible but not recommended?
Proper/best way to do it is also in this link.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... driveshaft
shawnj
Expert
Gee you'd think they would of created a collar to pull on in order to replace this bearing only. I know when I did our 08 Apex on the weekend I pulled chaincase and had to heat the housing a bit and when I yanked on jacksaft it came out real easy. Was thinking on trying the heat on mine and using something to pop it out from behind. May not be enough room to do that though.
Ak Yammy
Expert
I just went through all this when my lock collar nut came off. If you pull the tank (not a quick job) it will give you better access to the lock collar but I don't think it would help to much for the bearing.
shawnj
Expert
Maybe I will just continue to grease it and let her go for another year. How tight do you have to tighten that locking collar as I still have our one Apex still apart.
Ak Yammy
Expert
I did it the caveman way as my shock wrench would not work I used a hammer and chisel and banged on it until it stopped turning.shawnj said:
Blue Dave
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The chaincase has to come off as the jackshaft itself is slid towards the clutch side and used as a sort of slide hammer to get the bearing out of the frame behind the secondary clutch. Here is a link to an excellent step by step procedure http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... change.htm
The jackshaft bearing behind the secondary was as much of a PIA to install as the old one was to remove. I put the new bearing in the freezer and I heated the frame in the area where the bearing mounts. Even with a cold bearing and hot frame it was still a tight press fit. I placed the old bearing against the new bearing and with the help of a large plastic mallet I was able to send it home.
If you replace this bearing note that it is not a standard 6206. It is special in that the inside diameter is tapered. This is so that it mates properly with the taperlock bushing that secures this bearing to the jackshaft. I could not find this special bearing anywhere but from Yamaha. Equally important is the orientation of this bearing when you install it. The larger ID needs to be facing outwards so that it matches the profile of the taperlock bushing OD.
If you change the chaincase oil seals, note that the oil seal in the chaincase cover is special as well. It is a Viton seal that is designed for the higher temperatures that might be transmitted through the jackshaft from the brake rotor. The Viton seal is red in color and costs about three times as much as the two other standard black oil seals.
The jackshaft bearing behind the secondary was as much of a PIA to install as the old one was to remove. I put the new bearing in the freezer and I heated the frame in the area where the bearing mounts. Even with a cold bearing and hot frame it was still a tight press fit. I placed the old bearing against the new bearing and with the help of a large plastic mallet I was able to send it home.
If you replace this bearing note that it is not a standard 6206. It is special in that the inside diameter is tapered. This is so that it mates properly with the taperlock bushing that secures this bearing to the jackshaft. I could not find this special bearing anywhere but from Yamaha. Equally important is the orientation of this bearing when you install it. The larger ID needs to be facing outwards so that it matches the profile of the taperlock bushing OD.
If you change the chaincase oil seals, note that the oil seal in the chaincase cover is special as well. It is a Viton seal that is designed for the higher temperatures that might be transmitted through the jackshaft from the brake rotor. The Viton seal is red in color and costs about three times as much as the two other standard black oil seals.
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