Daranello
Suspended
How are you guys setting up this skid...right now mine set up with limiter all the way out and transfer rod in the center...I beleive this is the stock setup
DoktorC
TY 4 Stroke Master
I run mine with a bit more transfer...but I like to wheelie ...
Daranello
Suspended
Limited strap stock?
DoktorC
TY 4 Stroke Master
All the way out yes...I don't know if it's stock like that or not (the strap itself is stock though )
Kaz
Expert
I have the limiter strap pulled up one notch, set spring to your wt, transfer rod your preference, all the way out wheelie, I have mine set in the middle.
RA for the shock set it up early because by the end of the season it will be f---ked, or maybe the cable is already. Mine went sometime in the first year of useage and I haven't replaced it.
Kaz
RA for the shock set it up early because by the end of the season it will be f---ked, or maybe the cable is already. Mine went sometime in the first year of useage and I haven't replaced it.
Kaz
Daranello
Suspended
Kaz said:I have the limiter strap pulled up one notch, set spring to your wt, transfer rod your preference, all the way out wheelie, I have mine set in the middle.
RA for the shock set it up early because by the end of the season it will be f---ked, or maybe the cable is already. Mine went sometime in the first year of useage and I haven't replaced it.
Kaz
RA cable and shock new as off last week, what were the effects pulling up the stap for the sled?
sx7001
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2003
- Messages
- 693
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- Sidewinder
Pulling the strap up or "shorter" will couple the front and rear arms quicker giving more ski pressure and less weight transfer. All depends on how you ride and what you want the sled to do. If you cruise all day and like heavy steering, pull it up. If you want to hole shot hard and drive like a mad man leave the strap stock and open the transfer rod 10mm. Ride quality in the big bumps will suffer though.
TBay Sledhead
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2005
- Messages
- 1,129
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- 73
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- Thunder Bay, Ontario.Ca
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 06 Attak
01 SXR Long Track
The limiter strap limits the amount that the front of the skid will drop out thereby limiting ski lift. IMO the limiter strap doesn't have anything to do with skid coupling. The front and back swing arms move independent of each other until coupled by the transfer rod,thereby making them move up and down as one. Adjusting the transfer rod will allow either more or less independent movement.
Daranello
Suspended
I'm guessing with more transfer (adjusting transfer rod will make it hook better in corners under accelleration? I like a loose rear end but also like lifting my skis..
TBay Sledhead
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2005
- Messages
- 1,129
- Age
- 73
- Location
- Thunder Bay, Ontario.Ca
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 06 Attak
01 SXR Long Track
It's pretty hard to have both, you have to compromise.
Daranello
Suspended
anyone else run the transfer rod all the way out??? I'm going to give it a try this weekend
tomanytoyz
Lifetime Member
I run my limiter full loose,may drill a couple more holes?? with transfer rod max.lowered front end ,ice ripper xt,works the best so far,pulls real hard at any speed ! love it,but.. also have a custom team twisted ,hygear built rear shock that i can play with too.175lb wet.200+lb buddys dont like it,its all about that right balance! heavy up front -light driver, 121skid set up MY way.cant speak for 128.hope this helps.
**sj**
Lifetime Member
toomany...where you located?
daranello...make sure you lock the nut back down and dont go past the max on your tools wrench...easy to waste the transfer rod and that puppy is expensive...if the trail is real twisty and you are heavier ...its rough on max...if you are lighter and longer stretches its a blast..
daranello...make sure you lock the nut back down and dont go past the max on your tools wrench...easy to waste the transfer rod and that puppy is expensive...if the trail is real twisty and you are heavier ...its rough on max...if you are lighter and longer stretches its a blast..
mr. shide
Expert
I ran mine stock setup for 275 miles as i was breaking in the sled. On loose snow the skis didnt bite well and on hard pack the track was always spinning. I adjusted it after i got home but havent had a chance to try it yet. I pulled up limiter 1 hole. Adjusted the rod out halfway between the middle and full transfer. These 2 adjustments may have negated each other? I think a few studs are in order (for ice conditions on trail) and some decent carbides up front. Front floats at 70psi. Rear at 160-165psi i believe. In stock form the sled handled the bumps great and the eps is simply amazing. I was on a 06 apex gt and this 11 is much better. Just need to get a little more hookup and bite.
**sj**
Lifetime Member
mr. shide said:I ran mine stock setup for 275 miles as i was breaking in the sled. On loose snow the skis didnt bite well and on hard pack the track was always spinning. I adjusted it after i got home but havent had a chance to try it yet. I pulled up limiter 1 hole. Adjusted the rod out halfway between the middle and full transfer. These 2 adjustments may have negated each other? I think a few studs are in order (for ice conditions on trail) and some decent carbides up front. Front floats at 70psi. Rear at 160-165psi i believe. In stock form the sled handled the bumps great and the eps is simply amazing. I was on a 06 apex gt and this 11 is much better. Just need to get a little more hookup and bite.
increased transfer will give you a greater hookup feel...wont affect front bite while breaking...accelerating yes...increase air spring pressure will provide more ski bite and less roll to a degree...and unfortunately a stiffer ride up front..thats where an air canister like hygears seperates the ride height function of the air spring from the ride control function..studs on a short apex are mandatory IMHO and too few can be a problem with the power at hand..
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