cwhite3
Veteran
I have read a lot about changing the front suspension to anywhere from 50-55 psi. I know a lot are using a 13mm swing arm and tightening the limiter strap one notch. I am going with a 12mm for now and might go to the 13mm. I am going to run 55psi and will tighten the limiter strap by one. My question is what should my rear suspension be set at because I only weight 165 lbs.
What set the control rods at for weight transfer?
What to set rear suspension damping force adjuster?
What to set the spring load to?
What set the control rods at for weight transfer?
What to set rear suspension damping force adjuster?
What to set the spring load to?
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
cwhite3 said:I have read a lot about changing the front suspension to anywhere from 50-55 psi. I know a lot are using a 13mm swing arm and tightening the limiter strap one notch. I am going with a 12mm for now and might go to the 13mm. I am going to run 55psi and will tighten the limiter strap by one. My question is what should my rear suspension be set at because I only weight 165 lbs.
What set the control rods at for weight transfer?
What to set rear suspension damping force adjuster?
What to set the spring load to?
Not sure how much time you have with this sled, but just wanted to note that some seat time with it is worth as much as the best set up is. This was my first rider forward, took me like 1000 miles to come up to speed, unlearn 30+ years on earlier performance sleds.
If you're talking hard play in the corners, I would suggest you consider playing with the pressure in the floats to see what works best for you. 55 sounds high to me, just tried it again this past weekend and quickly went back down to 40-45 psi.
Don't use any more damping than you need. Start with minimum (20 clicks) and go up as necessary. Less damping will net you more travel - that's what you payed for.
Unfortunately, the transfer adjustment must often be used to control ratcheting - even while assuming you have the track tension set according to spec. Keep the nuts down as low as you can and still control the ratcheting Same reason as above. More transfer/less coupling will net more travel. Use the limiter strap to control front end lift (not to be confused with early inside ski lift - that's a different issue) when accelerating out of the corner.
Set the torsion spring adjusters for something like 3" of sag. At 165, doubt you'll be using any more than the low setting. Would also suggest you eliminate all preload from front skid spring.
If you haven't done so already - shim the skis.
Edit: Sorry, I wrote this assuming you were on an '07 Apex RTX w/CK. Didn't dawn on me that you may have an '06 w/mono until I reread.
cwhite3
Veteran
I am talking about a 07 sorry about the confusion. I have about 500 miles on the sled and had an 05 RX-1 before this one. I am currently running with C&A Pro Razors so I really won't need to shim the ski's. I ride pretty hard and haven't had a chance to ride at 55 psi so I will try that and lower it on the trail to see if I like that better. Thanks for the feedback. I will try to start the dampening low and work my way up along with setting my spring load to the min.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
cwhite3 said:I am talking about a 07 sorry about the confusion. I have about 500 miles on the sled and had an 05 RX-1 before this one. I am currently running with C&A Pro Razors so I really won't need to shim the ski's. I ride pretty hard and haven't had a chance to ride at 55 psi so I will try that and lower it on the trail to see if I like that better. Thanks for the feedback. I will try to start the dampening low and work my way up along with setting my spring load to the min.
Remember when checking/lowering the shock pressure that you need to unload the skis.
On the trail I've found I can do this fairly easily by parking the sled on top of a sharp, small snowbank (so the weight is sitting on the front of the track).