Rear suspension setup

Just removed the plastic blocks and the shaft on the rear skid to try and get more weight transfer. I just removed the shaft, popped the blocks off and put the shaft back in. Not a huge difference but I think it'll be enough to make a lot of people happy and only takes 5 minutes to do. We are loosing most all of our snow and it's raining here so couldn't go for an actual ride. I drove the sled a few times through our field to get a feel for it then removed the blocks and went right back out. There is definitely a noticeable difference on a dead stop launch. I made sure I did it on bare grass both before and after. Before it would hook quick then release pressure and then hook again and go..biggest problem with that is that when it hooks the second time it pulls the rpm way down because it shifted out because of the track spin. Makes it hard to win any races like that and that extra load is especially hard on a belt. Went back out after I pulled them off. Sled launched super hard, best I've felt out of it yet. Pulled the skis 2-3 inches off the ground and just sat like that for about 100 feet then the front end lowered and track never spun once. Rpm hit 8900 on the launch and never dropped which is the sweet spot on the viper. Anyone looking for just a little more hook up here is an easy fix that won't harm the sled at all. I also did one launch standing up and pulling up on the bars and there is no risk of the sled lifting too high on the front end which will still keep it very flat and stable on the front end
 
Barry did you leave the shaft with the flat end facing the arm or it doesn't matter, and also what if or can the shaft be completely out without doing damage to the suspension, will the arm touch the rear wheels or track?
 
Yes I left it so the transfer arm bottomed out on the flat side of the shaft. I've heard of some cat guys that completely take the shaft out and it doesn't cause any damage but they all complaining of no ski pressure on the trails and that the sled would come right over if it hooks up in the right conditions. I'll still give it a try and see
 
Thank you Studroes144. Would you recommend I do this before ever riding it? I weigh 240 in street clothes.

Thanks,
Shane
 
To be honest I wasn't pleased with the limited weight transfer out of the box. Really is no reason not to do it right away. I'd say put 100 miles on it and then do it and then you can feel if it really does make a difference or not with your riding style
 
update on my ride. did the bergstrom ski shims and ski savers-very little darting and was pretty straight-no complaints. Pulled blocks out and it definitely helped on weight transfer but not enough-front end should be pulling up harder IMO. Looked at limiter straps and it is already on furthest setting out (LTX SE) so no adjustment left. I am going to look at Cat's website to see stock XF settings-there are many adjustment holes that can be moved and may be a factory set up issue?
 
interesting thought. have not looked at cat site to see if removing shaft is standard (would it weaken rear end?). Front end feels like it could use a bit more bite so lowering limiter a touch may work. Center shock light as possible is always good. Probably wont be out until after x-mas now but will try when I can-or anyone else!!
 
I have heard from a few cat guys that completely take out the shaft and have never heard if it causing damage. They do however say it wheelies too much for trail riding. A good thing to try would be removing the shaft and then making the fine tune adjustments on the limiter strap. From the trail riding I've done I feel the front end is very planted on mine. I can accelerate hard from the start of a corner to the end. The cornering and stability isn't at all what I'm looking for. Just need to get that front end a little higher in the air and at the same time keep the flat handling qualities in effect. It will all come just will take time and testing
 
Just talked with Dave over at DLS in MN. Sounds like the shocks might just be way overvalved stiff-typical some Yami models. he mentioned taking blocks out, raising limiters, etc. Think I am going to soften them up with a revalve. I am about 210 lbs and have the springs on soft and the rear barely moves now.
 
That's the same boat I'm in at 230lbs. I however can really feel the suspension working but only in the huge bumps. Once stuff gets broke in good I'm thinking the suspension will be really good with some fine tuning. Sure would hate to spend money on suspension on a brand new sled so I'll make it perform best with what's there and that'll be good enough
 
Good info. I am 145lbs and in the last 300 mi my suspension has gone from stiff as a board to almost perfect and comfortable. Give it a chance to break in before spending any $ on it. I believe you will be very happy.
 
Ive spent last few season s on a procross. The 141 skid is 3" pitch track and uncoupled. It hooks HARD but will never give you the cushy trail ride of the coupled 137 or any slide action arctic cat rear skid. My 141 had too much transfer from factory, just shorten limiters one hole and back preload off on front track shock till it has almost no tension. This helps a lot in stutters. Revalves will help too. Allot of guys are running Hygears linkage which makes rear shock more progressive but your going to need to ditch the rear float on the skid to get best ride. On my sled I went with zbroz rear track shock and its pretty decent but still not the ride of my me buddys stock arctic cat slide action skid. It rides pretty decent but just doesn't have the range of the fully coupled skid to hande all sizes of bumps. Like I said the 141 is amazing off trail but if your a trail rider go with the 137.

Heres a link to linkage kit, it explains more. IMHO don't waste any more money on canister for rear float, just get a 220.00 shock from a LXR( 2704-173 )and go that route

http://www.hygearsuspension.com/ArcticCat_Link_Kit.html
 
suprfst said:
Ive spent last few season s on a procross. The 141 skid is 3" pitch track and uncoupled. It hooks HARD but will never give you the cushy trail ride of the coupled 137 or any slide action arctic cat rear skid. My 141 had too much transfer from factory, just shorten limiters one hole and back preload off on front track shock till it has almost no tension. This helps a lot in stutters. Revalves will help too. Allot of guys are running Hygears linkage which makes rear shock more progressive but your going to need to ditch the rear float on the skid to get best ride. On my sled I went with zbroz rear track shock and its pretty decent but still not the ride of my me buddys stock arctic cat slide action skid. It rides pretty decent but just doesn't have the range of the fully coupled skid to hande all sizes of bumps. Like I said the 141 is amazing off trail but if your a trail rider go with the 137.

Heres a link to linkage kit, it explains more. IMHO don't waste any more money on canister for rear float, just get a 220.00 shock from a LXR( 2704-173 )and go that route

http://www.hygearsuspension.com/ArcticCat_Link_Kit.html
Click to expand...

I am intereseted in this setup are you sure that shock will work? I just called the local store that caries both Yami and cat and they could not tell me if this is possible.
 
Hey Yamadog I think it's a fox zero pro. Same shock I have on mine.
 
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