Apex Transfer Rod

james-30

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2007 Apex Attak GT
What is the Transfer Rods job on the skid? How do I properly adjust it. I just finished up rebuilding my 136" skid and when I was trying to reinstall into the frame I got to messing with the transfer rod trying to get hole to line up. I have a mono shock installed cause the old Ohlins shock broke. Anyway here is my skid.

 
Transfer rod controls the wight transfer. Maximum transfer provides better traction in rear but pulls weight off the skis. Minimum transfer keeps the skis planted when you hammer throttle but will result in more track spin as weight isn't being transferred to rear.

There is is a limit as to how much you can adjust it to ensure that there are enough threads in contact. If it gets threaded out too far and not enough threads gripping it will strip out. The tool kit has a spanner wrench which shows the min and max settings for the adjustment.
 
What is the Transfer Rods job on the skid? How do I properly adjust it. I just finished up rebuilding my 136" skid and when I was trying to reinstall into the frame I got to messing with the transfer rod trying to get hole to line up. I have a mono shock installed cause the old Ohlins shock broke. Anyway here is my skid.

hibshman25 described the transfer rod function well and the adjustment makes a big difference depending on your riding style of course.

In regards to installing the skid back into the sled and getting the cross shaft to line up with the drop bracket bolt holes, I have found it is best to leave the rear control rod mounting bolt out letting the control rod fall down on the track while trying to re-assemble the skid into the tunnel. This way you aren't fighting with the slight pre-load in the suspension trying to get the holes to line up when the control rod is in place.
After the front swing arm is bolted in place, elevate the rear of the skid up into the tunnel and at a certain point in this swing range, the rear swing arm will pivot and line up perfectly with the drop bracket holes, no swearing and wrench throwing involved!
Now to get the bolt back into the rear control rod mount clevis, you will have to compress the skid slightly to apply sufficient pre-load to get the bolt to pass through easily. Using a sled lift makes this job much easier if you have one especially if you are a one man show, then all you need to do is use a jack under the back of the skid to elevate things into place.
 
hibshman25 described the transfer rod function well and the adjustment makes a big difference depending on your riding style of course.

In regards to installing the skid back into the sled and getting the cross shaft to line up with the drop bracket bolt holes, I have found it is best to leave the rear control rod mounting bolt out letting the control rod fall down on the track while trying to re-assemble the skid into the tunnel. This way you aren't fighting with the slight pre-load in the suspension trying to get the holes to line up when the control rod is in place.
After the front swing arm is bolted in place, elevate the rear of the skid up into the tunnel and at a certain point in this swing range, the rear swing arm will pivot and line up perfectly with the drop bracket holes, no swearing and wrench throwing involved!
Now to get the bolt back into the rear control rod mount clevis, you will have to compress the skid slightly to apply sufficient pre-load to get the bolt to pass through easily. Using a sled lift makes this job much easier if you have one especially if you are a one man show, then all you need to do is use a jack under the back of the skid to elevate things into place.
I just followed these instructions and it worked exactly as stated.
 
Thanks for the help guys
 
I just adjusted it to 3/4 according to the spanner wrench that came with it. I talked with old owner the other day and he told me this where it'll perform best.

Min STD Max
[----]----]
I'm here (RED) on adjustment
 
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The transfer rod setting is something you may have to play with to get it to your liking.
Rider weight will be a factor in adjustments. What works for rider A may not work well for rider B
Start with the Yamaha spec and go back and forth from there until you find the sweet spot for you.
 
If I remember correctly, originally in 06 (I've had mine since new in 06) the front strap needed to be pulled up one hole and the transfer rod set to full out (as in, max threads allowable showing).
Full transfer, and the strap pulled up one hole from factory setting to prevent wheelies....
 
Don't be afraid to experiment, as adjusting the transfer rod is very easy to do. Try adjusting it throughout a day to get a feel on how it can change your ride under the same conditions.
 
So I just bought a 2006 apex RTX with the 121" track and I noticed something was missing with some research I find that it's the transfer rod! So my question is do I have to have the transfer rod in? Also why would it be out? Do they fallout?
Thanks
 
They don't usually fall out without wrecking something in the process. Some guys have removed them completely but they are total wheelie monsters and difficult to ride/control in certain conditions. Fairly sure the 06 RTX was the mono-shock with typical transfer rod like the OP's picture, I believe later (newer) RTX models had a pro-active style suspension with a different 2 shock suspension/transfer configuration.
 
So I just bought a 2006 apex RTX with the 121" track and I noticed something was missing with some research I find that it's the transfer rod! So my question is do I have to have the transfer rod in? Also why would it be out? Do they fallout?
Thanks

Maybe the previous owner installed a different suspension? Post a pic if you can.
 
Well it seems like I should definetly get on in there! So where is the best place to find these? I looked on eBay and they are not cheap! Any help would be great thanks
 


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