ARE MY NUTS TOO BIG??? your thoughts on stud nut size??

[shanksyamaha]

I currently have 144 studs in my track down the middle. It has the extra long stud nuts that are supposed to prevent the studs from bending or breaking. However... Does anyone know how much heavier these nuts are??? Im thinking I would like to change them out for the older style regular size nuts to save weight... I think I would rather break or bend a stud every now and then, then have any extra rotating mass..

what are your thoughts on these larger stud nuts??

 

[HONDAFIXER]

I would rather bend or break a stud then rip it out of the track. Use the short nuts

 

[Fusion]

There is virtually no way, if installed properly, with stud bottoming out and seating properly on the backer, that you can pull one of these thru. I have an LTX GT I just finished tonight, and I installed 162 down the middle, utilizing a 2 x 4 x 2 x 4 pattern, with double backers on the fours. I ran 120 on my Vector last year without the double backers and tall nuts, not one failure of any sort. I am using Extreme Max studs. I'd be more worried about breaking the carbide tips out, I've done that in the past. One year I lost 17 out of 144 tips, had to be a bad batch of studs because I lost nothing last year.

My 2 cents, go with the tall nuts and forget about it. They give you far greater rigidity. The dealer converted me. You get far more play with the smaller nuts.

 

[scmurs]

The title of your thread got me thinking. Not an expert on nut size, but the 2nd fella in this video might be a good one to ask.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggFgiNeVJKY

Sorry, not trying to take away from the discussion, but your thread title made me do it

 

[shanksyamaha]

So thats one vote for tall nuts and one for short...

I see both sides here. I need to weigh one of these nuts compared to the shorter nuts and see what the difference actually is.. I have used the shorter nuts for years, some years I had studs pull through and other years I did not. I currently have an 04 xc 700 that I have ridden hard and my wife rides now and that has the smaller nuts and has not had a failure in 2500 miles..

The main problem I want to avoid is studs pulling out. I don't really care if I break or bend one I just don't want to rip one out of the track, once that starts its only a short time before you end up spitting the track out the back... done that many times over the years...

Fusion, sounds like you are saying that the large nuts, being more rigid, will help prevent studs from pulling through the track.. That sounds plausable to me... anyone else have thoughts on this????

 

[shanksyamaha]

scmurs.... I asked for that one.... lol...

 

[Fusion]

Shanks, the problem is, at my level of chronological existance, and having manually installed at least a thousand studs over the years, I think I know more than I probably do. (Thats my caveat) Another key is, do not go for excessive penetraion over the lug or you will start bending and breaking things. If you are studding a ripsaw track, 1.25, I would not go over a 1.4 (Extreme Max), but be carefull, they all measure stud length differently. Maximum, if my memory serves correctly is .375 or 3/8 inch maximum length protrusion above the lug. ( I rarely go even that high) If you maintain penetration to effective/reasonable lengths, you also limit the forces on the stud in the form of twisting, bending and flexing within the track. I had studs pull out on a 1997 Doo Formula 3 600 and once it started, you are correct, there is no stopping it, and eventually I ended up with a new track. But I did not stud that sled - somebody else blew it. That experience made me read and study potential for failure in the form of pull-throughs, because as you, I believe this to be the biggest potential catastrophy in studding. I have studded seven (now eight) sleds since that failure, and never had a pull through.

When I put these tall nuts on for the first time I was impressed and self assured by the feeling of rigidity. You can't even move a stud by hand with a tall nut on it. Not so with the smaller nuts. You are adding maybe a pound at most of extra weight. Probably more like a matter of ounces difference in weight. I'm sold until I have a failure with one. But by all means, do what gives you confidence and works for you based on your riding style.

Last night about 10 P.M. when I popped open that video by Scmurs, it was the first time all day I actually laughed. Cool video, and yes, you did ask for that with the title. The things some people do on sleds just make ya shake your head.

 

[bottlerocket]

I used the smaller alum nut for pentatration purposes. I used woody 1.45 on a 1.25 ripsaw with no problems other then breaking the bigger stud boy plastic double backers so far.

 

[maxdlx]

The woody's tall nuts are aluminum, and weigh almost the same as the steel lock nuts. The taller nuts won't cause pull throughs, missinstalled backers will. I ran the 3/4 inch tall nuts and the 1/2's both, and never pulled a stud through. The weight differewnce will maybe cost you 1/1000 of a hp. Not worth changing bent or brokn studs for. Maxdlx

 

[copo427ss]

The title of your thread got me thinking. Not an expert on nut size, but the 2nd fella in this video might be a good one to ask.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggFgiNeVJKY

Sorry, not trying to take away from the discussion, but your thread title made me do it

WOW

 

[shanksyamaha]

Im gunna keep the tall nuts on and give em a try.. nuthin wrong with big nuts!!

 

[shanksyamaha]

Im gunna keep the tall nuts on and give em a try.. nuthin wrong with big nuts!!

 

[wantsnow]

that video was F'd up!! I want the studs that these guys are running!

 

[maxdlx]

The only thing to warn you about with the tall nuts is hard pavement or black top crossing the sled will vibrate some. Its just the studs stay rigid and don't flex over as much and it vibrates some. Both of mine did it. Maxdlx