Attacking Headache

Yeah I have tried the guided, the unguided, and the "lightweight" clips that have holes on them. The ones with the holes are junk, I break half of them just trying to get them on. and it doesnt seem to make a difference between the guided or unguided. Actually I think I had better luck with the unguided clips. I used close to 50 clips for this past season.
 
Hey guys

07 RTX 4800 miles on her and the track looks brand new, all the clips are there and in good shape. orignal hyfax's still look good

cheers
 
Wartsnuff, Are you studed? There seem's to be a conection between stud's and this sled/track combo. As i said earlier i put a new track in and no problem's so far. You also don't have the Mono. There are also a lot of Mono skid's that don't have problem's either. kviper
 
kviper said:
Wartsnuff, Are you studed? There seem's to be a conection between stud's and this sled/track combo. As i said earlier i put a new track in and no problem's so far. You also don't have the Mono. There are also a lot of Mono skid's that don't have problem's either. kviper

Correct,

I am NOT studded, also i am running the CK skid not the RA suspension.

just thought i would say what was happening to me... since i do have a 121" inch ripsaw track

cheers
 
kviper-
I installed the solid clip style using the die/press tool (not the big pliers tool). One of the problems I found on the ripsaw is there is a lug directly behind each clip. This does not allow the clip to wrap around the track bar as far as on some older style tracks.
My next plan is to investigate the drivers and axle and see if there is anything out of wack...but I think this will wait until next Fall.
 
Yes you need the die with the cut out for the lug. Even with out the lug behind the clip they don't wrap any farther around any way. When i replaced my track i had my drive's checked and found the drive shaft had Ten thou run out. Then with the new shaft i had the drive wheel's trued as they are alway's off. This make's the whole sled smoother especialy at higher speed's. For example we hed taken off fourty thou before all wheel's were making contact with lthe lathe tool. Those plastic drive wheel's are junk. kviper
 
so what is it about the skid that could be causing the clips to come off??? Does the front of the rails drop enuff to catch the track, is that what they are saying???
 
I don't think it is an adjustment problem because most track's are going two, three, thousand mi or more before having the problem. Has any one with a 07 RTX had any clip's go yet? My track definatly had gone bad and i am quite sure that was causing the clip's to go. Only 600 on new track so time will tell. Maybe Camoplast track's can't take the torque load for the long haul. The clip's are fine when the track is new then after a couple thousand mi the clip's come loose. Camoplast say's they come loose frome the track slapping against the rail's causing the clip's to open up. Nothing changed with the skid so somthing has to have changed with the track to make it slap at higher speed's. This was noticed by a friend riding aside of me at higher speed's. New track, no more slaping, No more loose clip's. kviper
 
I have a fully clipped 9834 on an 03 RX1 with extroverts and it throws clips occasionally. I think that the "L" part of the clip contacts the rail snubbers and the clip eventually pops off. Take a look at the front underside of those snubbers and you'll find all kinds of "cuts" in them from the clips. Those snubbers come loose - I have lost one entirely this past season. As someone asked earlier on; "should I bolt them on"; I did exactly that as they are a $40 hit each. The rivets wear out from all the contact. I believe the problem is the rail profile. My 03 looks to be similar to the attak. One other point, the rail profile is way different on the RTX and I bet few owners of those will have clip problems. The attack angle is much better on those rails. Also, the worst clip loss took place on rough trails where the front of the skid contacts unlevel moguls. Those uneven hits force the front of the track over onto the snubbers and the clip gets hit. I think other than rail profile a solution might be a driver system that truly helps align the track at the driveshaft. I think I have seen an extrovert/introvert combination somewhere that does just that.
 
I bolted my rail protector's solid and still had the problem. The Attak has a flater aproach angle and has the problem as well. I still think it is conected with studing the center belt only and cord stretch or braking. My problem wen't away with the new track so far. It will be interesting to see if it hold's up with the predrilled extra cord structure track. I think the cut's you are seing in the rail protector's is coming frome the clip's coming out, I don't think the track can move far enough to contact the verticle part of the clip unles the track would jump the drive lug's. kviper
 
kviper said:
I don't think it is an adjustment problem because most track's are going two, three, thousand mi or more before having the problem. Has any one with a 07 RTX had any clip's go yet? My track definatly had gone bad and i am quite sure that was causing the clip's to go. Only 600 on new track so time will tell. Maybe Camoplast track's can't take the torque load for the long haul. The clip's are fine when the track is new then after a couple thousand mi the clip's come loose. Camoplast say's they come loose frome the track slapping against the rail's causing the clip's to open up. Nothing changed with the skid so somthing has to have changed with the track to make it slap at higher speed's. This was noticed by a friend riding aside of me at higher speed's. New track, no more slaping, No more loose clip's. kviper

Its strange how not everyone has this problem though, even with the mono.

Between the 4 guys (including me in the past) with mono skids, we've put something like 40,000 km on these suspensions. So far we haven't lost a single clip until a track is totally shot (and basically falling apart at about 8000+ km).

With my 07 RTX I also haven't had any trouble in 4700km (bad season...) and to the best of my knowledge the two guys with monoshock skids haven't lost any clips either.

I can't think of what would cause the clips to keep falling off. Have you checked the drivers on the driveshaft for alignment?

How are you doing for hyfax wear? Are you going through a lot of hyfax and really heating the clips up?
 
My drive wheel's have been trued via lathe and are runing smoother than anything out of the box (they are bad in stock form). Slide wear has been good, On my second set in 4,060 mi. As i said earlier the plastic drive wheel's are very in consistant and could cause some harmonics and cause the track to not aproach the skid smoothly. I did have a slight vibration before the drive's were turned. I did the drive's when i put the new track in so we will see. I would highly recamend to any one puting a track in to have the drive's turned and trued as long as you have it out any way, It is not that expensive and you will notice it to be smoother at higher speed's. I have heard people say they have seen 2 to 3 mph top end from this. These drive wheel's seem to be very inconsistant, So a person that has a bad set that run's a lot of high speed's could have clip problem's at a earlier stage, If this is the cause. Just some more guessing but thing's to think about if any one has the track out over the summer. ReX, are the Apex's you were refering to studed? kviper
 
kviper said:
My drive wheel's have been trued via lathe and are runing smoother than anything out of the box (they are bad in stock form). Slide wear has been good, On my second set in 4,060 mi. As i said earlier the plastic drive wheel's are very in consistant and could cause some harmonics and cause the track to not aproach the skid smoothly. I did have a slight vibration before the drive's were turned. I did the drive's when i put the new track in so we will see. I would highly recamend to any one puting a track in to have the drive's turned and trued as long as you have it out any way, It is not that expensive and you will notice it to be smoother at higher speed's. I have heard people say they have seen 2 to 3 mph top end from this. These drive wheel's seem to be very inconsistant, So a person that has a bad set that run's a lot of high speed's could have clip problem's at a earlier stage, If this is the cause. Just some more guessing but thing's to think about if any one has the track out over the summer. ReX, are the Apex's you were refering to studed? kviper

I'd say its about 65% studded, 35% unstudded. The only time we ran the hard plastic wheels was unstudded (and the wheels failed very regularly). More than 50% of the miles are with the wider 04 idler wheels which have a lot more rubber and probably dampen out some of the vibraions better (they seem quieter with less "harshness" to the track noise also).

How is your sled for track noise? Some of our setups have had extremely noisy tracks, but now we're all running pre-punched tracks with 144 studs along with the wider wheels and the track noise is good on all of them.

What about riding speeds? We tend to ride moderately twisty trails the majority of the time and don't really spend much time on lakes/rivers. Also we don't tend to run our sleds at very high speeds for prolonged periods of time although we have on occaision (but still not completely wide open for all that long).
 
I wen't with the predrilled 144 this time also due to the extra cord structure and warranty. I have some stock wheel's and some GYT spoked wheel's. So far the GYT spoked have held up in the center rear. Track noise is there but not bad. I think this clip thing could be conected to a lot of thing's but usualy is not a problem when the track is new, This lead's me to think that somthing in the track is changing (cord structure) either stretching or failing. With the aproach angle being harsh on the Mono, 1.25 lug height,stud's in center belt only, Drive wheel's being out of round, Power and weight are all factor's. I am hoping the extra cord structure will take care of it. I went from clip's gone after every ride (100/200mi) to 600mi with new track and all is good so far. Camoplast say's they were able to take a 1.25 lug track and run 3 to 4 mi WOT on ice and spit clip's so they say if you are running a lot of high speed's on hard surfaces you should not be running more than a 1" lug height as it sounds like the 1" held up in there testing. I will have to wait till next season to get more mi. Two of my friend's lost clip's also, One Vector with 3,000mi and one 07 Apex GT with 1,800 mi. There clip's were geting thin from all of the snirt we had to ride in early in the season. :o|
 


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