Autotune not working

[sorenson1610]

Kinda figured I would have problems with this thing right away so I had some time to plug it in to the laptop to see if it was actually working or not. Well it's not reading so I think the sensor is bad. The red light is on the unit itself and it's enabled in the PC5 after 60 seconds. But I run it and no AFR's, 0.00. The one thing I didn't do because he sled was all part was test the sensor like the manual states. Did you guys do that? Any other tips for this thing? Other then that everything else seems to be running properly in the dynojet software.
Thanks

 

[yox185]

I've heard of many issues with the sensors being bad. I'd call Dynojet.

 

[sorenson1610]

I've heard of many issues with the sensors being bad. I'd call Dynojet.

Yup me too, going to call them tomorrow. Figured I would see if I'm missing something else here too. Thanks

 

[natedawgedog]

You can test the sensor, there is a link in the nytro faq section, also have you updated all the pc5's software program? I couldn't get the autotune and lcd screen to work until I had the driver software for the pc5 updated. Is the unit brand new?

 

[sorenson1610]

You can test the sensor, there is a link in the nytro faq section, also have you updated all the pc5's software program? I couldn't get the autotune and lcd screen to work until I had the driver software for the pc5 updated. Is the unit brand new?

Hmmm no it's not brand new.....I'll look to see if it's updated. Be nice if that was the problem

 

[sorenson1610]

You can test the sensor, there is a link in the nytro faq section, also have you updated all the pc5's software program? I couldn't get the autotune and lcd screen to work until I had the driver software for the pc5 updated. Is the unit brand new?

When I go into information it doesn't even read that I have the autotune hooked up or recognises that there is another device there. Also my cable between the PC5 and autotune is ridiculously cheesy, barly stays in the ports. Is yours like that or did you zip tie them in?

 

[natedawgedog]

I don't have anything holding them in place, and I do admit it's a bit of a cheesy connection, but mine never came apart last season.

There is a guy on snowest that works for dynojet on there that is very helpful and has answered a few of my questions about the autotune with avgas. He is very knowledgeable and would probably have some good answers for your questions

 

[sorenson1610]

Ok called dynojet to figure out the issue. First issue, no termination plug for the other port in the autotune. No clue I needed one since the directions were so clear So I'm guessing that is my main issue, also going to update everything. Ordered a new CAD cable since the one I have a real POS and got a new sensor just in case. Now I asked a performance company that will remain nameless when I got this setup what I needed to do to hook it all up or if I needed to do anything special to hook it up. I got nope hook it up and it'll be good...........kinda pisses me off. When I ask questions about a product, please answer ALL my questions that I ask. Don't just give a vague, hook it up and run it type answer. Really doesn't help much.

Sorry for the rant but it really rubs me wrong. I'll get all my new stuff in and hopefully it reads......I'll keep you posted

 

[Yam4Strokin]

First, update your Software version by downloading the latest version from Dynojet's website.

Second, go through and make sure your firmware is up to date in the Power Commander V.

Third, double check that the cable from the Autotune to the PCV is clicked in all the way.

Fourth, call Allen @ Ulmer Racing as he has been setting these up for several seasons and may be able to help you on any other issue you might be having (he installed mine).

 

[Alatalo]

I have never used any Dynojet products in my snowmobiles, but I do have experience of Dynojet PC3, PC5 as well as AutoTune in streetbikes and roadrace bikes.

My advice:

Install the termination plug that you are obviously missing into the non-used port of the PC5. When at it, make sure all of your cables are properly installed and properly routed, according to the instructions you hopefully got when you purchased it.

If you do not have the instructions, you can get them from the Dynojet website. When at it, also download the latest firmware as well as software. This is very important...! If your PC5 / AutoTune is more than couple of months old, it does not have the latest revisions and then it will not work. Proved over and over on thousands of streetbikes. Period.

Once hooked up, make sure AutoTune is enabled from your PC5 control panel. Don't forget to fill in the matrix with target air/fuel ratios. If everything is hooked up properly, you should get rpm, throttle as well as air/fuel ratio readings when idling.

If it still does not work, call Allen Ulmer. I would not even bother calling Dynojet for advice. Their customer support is next to non-existent and this is the single biggest reason they are soon pushed out of the roadrace market by Bazzaz...If your sensor fails, get a new one from Bosch at about half the price from Dynojet (it is just a standard Bosch wideband lambda anyway...).

 

[sorenson1610]

I have never used any Dynojet products in my snowmobiles, but I do have experience of Dynojet PC3, PC5 as well as AutoTune in streetbikes and roadrace bikes.

My advice:

Install the termination plug that you are obviously missing into the non-used port of the PC5. When at it, make sure all of your cables are properly installed and properly routed, according to the instructions you hopefully got when you purchased it.

If you do not have the instructions, you can get them from the Dynojet website. When at it, also download the latest firmware as well as software. This is very important...! If your PC5 / AutoTune is more than couple of months old, it does not have the latest revisions and then it will not work. Proved over and over on thousands of streetbikes. Period.

Once hooked up, make sure AutoTune is enabled from your PC5 control panel. Don't forget to fill in the matrix with target air/fuel ratios. If everything is hooked up properly, you should get rpm, throttle as well as air/fuel ratio readings when idling.

If it still does not work, call Allen Ulmer. I would not even bother calling Dynojet for advice. Their customer support is next to non-existent and this is the single biggest reason they are soon pushed out of the roadrace market by Bazzaz...If your sensor fails, get a new one from Bosch at about half the price from Dynojet (it is just a standard Bosch wideband lambda anyway...).

Thanks for the tips and comments! I like as much information as possible as I've never messed with these units yet. Seem easy enough if I have the correct and full instructions. I have the instructions for both units but the autotune instructions didn't say anything about that termination plug that I didn't have or don't know if I received it with my kit. The termination plug goes in the extra port of the autotune correct? That is what dynojet said..... Anyway I ordered a new termination plug and a new CAN cable as mine was pretty flimsy and didn't clip into the units at all. Figured might as well get all new stuff to make sure it's good. I did get a sensor from them too, wish this was posted yesterday afternoon so I wouldn't have but oh well I have one coming if mine is faulty. Have the info for next time.

I was wondering about putting in target AFR ratios in the charts.......do I need to add them in or will they fill in as the autotune runs? If I need to put them in, how do I do that and what is the target?

I will be updating the units also. Is there a update for the autotune itself, I've only found updates for the PC5 on there site. I have the autotune enabled and it starts reading within 60 seconds.

Now with that said I will probably try it when I get my new parts in and see how it goes. And probably call Ulmer too.

If I'm missing anything let me know and thanks again for help again! Really learning a lot about these devices

 

[yox185]

If the map you started with doesn't have AFR settings then you will need to add them. Mid 12's seems to be the target zone on these sleds.

 

[shadow44]

I have never used any Dynojet products in my snowmobiles, but I do have experience of Dynojet PC3, PC5 as well as AutoTune in streetbikes and roadrace bikes.

My advice:

Install the termination plug that you are obviously missing into the non-used port of the PC5. When at it, make sure all of your cables are properly installed and properly routed, according to the instructions you hopefully got when you purchased it.

If you do not have the instructions, you can get them from the Dynojet website. When at it, also download the latest firmware as well as software. This is very important...! If your PC5 / AutoTune is more than couple of months old, it does not have the latest revisions and then it will not work. Proved over and over on thousands of streetbikes. Period.

Once hooked up, make sure AutoTune is enabled from your PC5 control panel. Don't forget to fill in the matrix with target air/fuel ratios. If everything is hooked up properly, you should get rpm, throttle as well as air/fuel ratio readings when idling.

If it still does not work, call Allen Ulmer. I would not even bother calling Dynojet for advice. Their customer support is next to non-existent and this is the single biggest reason they are soon pushed out of the roadrace market by Bazzaz...If your sensor fails, get a new one from Bosch at about half the price from Dynojet (it is just a standard Bosch wideband lambda anyway...).

Thanks for the tips and comments! I like as much information as possible as I've never messed with these units yet. Seem easy enough if I have the correct and full instructions. I have the instructions for both units but the autotune instructions didn't say anything about that termination plug that I didn't have or don't know if I received it with my kit. The termination plug goes in the extra port of the autotune correct? That is what dynojet said..... Anyway I ordered a new termination plug and a new CAN cable as mine was pretty flimsy and didn't clip into the units at all. Figured might as well get all new stuff to make sure it's good. I did get a sensor from them too, wish this was posted yesterday afternoon so I wouldn't have but oh well I have one coming if mine is faulty. Have the info for next time.

I was wondering about putting in target AFR ratios in the charts.......do I need to add them in or will they fill in as the autotune runs? If I need to put them in, how do I do that and what is the target?

I will be updating the units also. Is there a update for the autotune itself, I've only found updates for the PC5 on there site. I have the autotune enabled and it starts reading within 60 seconds.

Now with that said I will probably try it when I get my new parts in and see how it goes. And probably call Ulmer too.

If I'm missing anything let me know and thanks again for help again! Really learning a lot about these devices

Call Ulmer on the bold...I spoke with him about it last summer and he mentioned something about that...Allen is very familiar with snowmobile applications for the auto tune. Also from what Hindles tech guy told me, you have to enter base number for the map to run betweeen...so a basic target area.

 

[sorenson1610]

Sounds good, I'll give him a ring today to see what we can come up with. Thanks!

 

[Alatalo]

Yes, you will have to put target AFR numbers in. This is the indata for the whole process. Without target AFR numbers, the AutoTune will for sure not work, as it does not know what AFR to tune for. Only after this is done and you have ridden the sled, obviously, you will get a matrix with suggested trim numbers.

Normal target AFR for roadrace bikes is around 13.4:1 at low throttle openings and low rpm, then gradually changing to 13.2-13.0:1 in the "midrange" and up to 12.8-12.6:1 at full throttle and full rpm. Though, this is roadrace bikes. You might want to check what guys like Ulmer is using in sleds.

On streetbikes and roadrace bikes, most people zero out the target AFR for the lowest throttle openings (0-2% or even 0-5%). These bikes all have separate idling circuits. If you try to AutoTune these circuits, you end up with a crap idle. You might want to check if this is the case also in the sleds.