Bearing inspection

[TBay Sledhead]

I checked the bearings on the jackshaft behind the clutch and the track drive bearing on that side, both still had grease but also had a little water. So I cleaned them up and regreased. Do I have to do the same with the chaincase bearings? In the manual it looks like they are sealed bearings. Was wondering if anyone was having trouble with these bearings? I will be pulling the chaincase apart for maintenace this week.

 

[SERPAGS]

To check that bearing on the jack shaft, do I just need to remove the Secondary?

 

[apex yooper]

Chaincase bearing is lubed by the oil in it.

 

[TBay Sledhead]

To check that bearing on the jack shaft, do I just need to remove the Secondary?

Remove the secondary, Remove the snap ring next to the bearing and use a thin blade slothead screw driver at the outside edge of the seal to pop the seal out. The seal will come out very easily without bending. To check the track drive shaft bearing remove the 4 12mm nuts holding the bearing retainer and speedo in place and then remove the bearing seal. Clean and grease. Reassemble

 

[SERPAGS]

Awesome, thanks a bunch.

 

[Mikecam]

I didn't even take the snap ring off. The seal came out over it fine.

 

[apltx08]

[/quote]
To check the track drive shaft bearing remove the 4 12mm nuts holding the bearing retainer and speedo in place and then remove the bearing seal. Clean and grease. Reassemble[/quote]

I just use a NEEDLE adapter to my grease gun and slip it under the seal without removing it...

I usually change it every spring ready for the next season, cheap INSURANCE, I also have a spare in my nose bag of my sled, I've seen guys stuck on the trails with a busted 1 in middle of no where, you can change them in the trail no problems.

 

[welterracer]

my jackshaft bearings have 5500 miles on the... i always grease them with a needle greaser every 1000 miles.. in the summer i pulled the bearing out, removed the seal, cleaned it and regreased it.. GOOD AS NEW..

 

[grizzerly]

I found the thread on changing pto side jack shaft bearing. Is there a thread on changing drive axle bearing

 

[guardrail]

Chaincase bearing is lubed by the oil in it.

My chaincase bearing was in backwards. It has a seal on one side. The seal side was facing the inside of the chaincase (oil side) and the open side was facing the tunnel, no grease. I'm glad I decided to change my track before i rode it for the first time. It was probably a freak thing, but something to watch for.

 

[Bob Miller]

I didn't even take the snap ring off. The seal came out over it fine.

Same here! You can do it without removing the snap ring

 

[Kaz]

"I've seen guys stuck on the trails with a busted 1 in middle of no where, you can change them in the trail no problems."

Can you please provide more details on how to change out the drive shaft bearing without removing the drive shaft. Will it slide off the end once you remove the retainer?

Kaz

 

[apltx08]

"I've seen guys stuck on the trails with a busted 1 in middle of no where, you can change them in the trail no problems."

Can you please provide more details on how to change out the drive shaft bearing without removing the drive shaft. Will it slide off the end once you remove the retainer?

Kaz

I'm talking of the 1 on the speedo side, behind the secondary clutch, and YES it will slide of once you disassemble the the bolts holding it in place and then loosen the 2 TORX screws holding it on the shaft...and you should loosen your track some, I always carry a small selection of tools a long trip, I even bring a spare IDLER, you will always brake down in the middle of no whrere and

 

[JERSEYJOE]

LEFT SIDE DRIVE AXLE BEARING

MY APEX GT WITH 4000 MILES ON IT HAD A BAD LEFT DRIVE SHAFT BEARING. FROM MY EXPERIENCE WITH THE SRX AND VIPER I KNEW TO CHECK IT.

FIRST YOU NEED TO SLACKEN THE TRACK TENSION AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE. THIS REMOVES THE PRESSURE ON THE DRIVE SHAFT.

NEXT YOU CAN REMOVE THE 4 12 MM NUTS THAT HOLD THE BEARING RETAINER PLATE ON TO THE CHASSIS. TWO OF THE NUTS ALSO SECURE THE SPEEDO SENSOR . IF YOU LOCK THE PARKING BRAKE YOU CAN THEN REMOVE THE 14 MM CENTER BOLT THAT SECURES THE TONE WHEEL TO THE SHAFT.

ONCE THE RETAINER IS OFF YOU NEED TO LOOK ON THE INSIDE OF THE SLED AND REMOVE THE TWO SET SCREWS THAT SECURE THE BEARING TO THE DRIVE SHAFT. THEY ARE TORX HEAD.

NOW IT'S JUST A MATTER OF TAPPING FROM THE INSIDE OUT. THE BEARING WILL EASILY SLIDE OFF. IT IS NOT A PRESS FIT SO SEVERE BANGING IS NOT NEEDED.

REMEMBER TO EITHER USE NEW SET SCREWS OR USE RED LOCK TITE WHEN ASSEMBLING IT

 

[rrxx-1]

My lower chaincase bearing was installed backwards also. The seal was facing in the chaincase, the open face was facing towards the tunnel. Just and FYI.................Brian