bearing maintenance...dumb question

[Kevin Garceau]

OK...just thinking I should probably get to these this coming week.

I just spent some time searching and found alot of info that these need to be done.

Which bearings in particular besides the jackshaft and speedo bearing need to be serviced.

To be honest IM not really sure what that means. Can I pull the covers from it in the sled and inject grease with a needle type fitting on my grease gun?

I looked through the FAQ...couldnt find anything.

If someone wants to point me in the right direction I wouldnt mind doing it, taking pics and documenting it. If it hasnt been done.

thanks

 

[Gibby]

my lower bearing in the chain case (other side from speedo bearing)was in really bad shape would not hardly turn at 4500 miles, it was as bad as the speedo bearing, this was on a 05 warrior at 3 years old

gibby

 

[Grimm]

I try to regrease all of the rear suspension wheels by removing the wheels from the mounts, as it just makes it easier. I pop off the seal with a small flat screwdriver and repack it with fresh grease using my fingers and pop the seal back on. Some like to clean them out with WD40, but I don't bother.

Keep in mind, many of the later year Yammys' idler wheels do not have replaceable bearings, so when the bearings go, you have to replace the wheel as well, and vice versa. Regarding these STUPIDLY designed "encapsulated bearing wheels", you might be somewhat successful using a needle greaser on your grease gun and slip the needle between the seal and bearing race.

Come to think of it, I haven't really looked at the wheels on my SE to see if the wheel and bearing are one unit. I'll have to look into that.

 

[Grimm]

my lower bearing in the chain case (other side from speedo bearing)was in really bad shape would not hardly turn at 4500 miles, it was as bad as the speedo bearing, this was on a 05 warrior at 3 years old

gibby

That is surprising. Did you change out your chaincase oil every year? If so, what brand? Or did you manage to sink the sled in a ditch at one time, which could allow water into the chaincase?

 

[06apexrtx]

on my er i had last year i popped the bearing seals off and cleaned them and then repacked them w/ white lithium grease but who knows how long they lasted .

 

[hayastusa]

That is surprising. Did you change out your chaincase oil every year? If so, what brand? Or did you manage to sink the sled in a ditch at one time, which could allow water into the chaincase?

What grimm said. That bearing bathes in oil constantly. On the other hand my top bearing (jackshaft chain case side) had a flat spot. I replaced the drive shaft bearing on the pto side (that's the most likely to fail), but the jackshaft pto side I just popped the seal, packed it and snapped the seal back on. With the idlers...just replace the wheels. $17 a piece at South Seattle Sport Plaza.

 

[Gibby]

That is surprising. Did you change out your chaincase oil every year? If so, what brand? Or did you manage to sink the sled in a ditch at one time, which could allow water into the chaincase?

The dealer was supposed to change oil (how do you really ever know)it was part of a service contract that i bought, when that ran out that is when i changed it and noticed it was bad, it was never sunk.

 

[ahicks]

Kevin, do you have a sealed bearing laying around you could practice on? The plan is to carefully pry out the seal. I start from the OD, others may have a different plan. Then clean what gook/hardened grease you can out of it. Replace with your favorite grease (I use the same front wheel bearing grease I use on cars/pickups). If you see rust, time to bail and replace the bearing. It's a little dinking around on the first couple you do, but after that you're a pro. Can do them in 5 minutes. MUCH quicker/easier than pulling the bearing!

 

[Kevin Garceau]

OK...that sounds simple enough Al...but which bearings.

Not concerned about skid bearings. Those are easy to figure out.

Behind secondary cluch and which else?

 

[rx1mtn]

The bearing behind the secondary clutch and the front drive axle bearing as well. You can do those 2 bearings without taking the bearings off. Check that lower bearing in the chain case too. Last year, before my 1st ride, I almost let it go thinking that in runs is oil all of the time. I had also changed the gears 2 times the year before, along with the fluid. Well, I decided that I would look at it, just dumb luck. The cage that holds the balls in place had broken and was split. No bearing damage yet, but in less that 20 miles, I'm sure would have had a major problem.

 

[Kevin Garceau]

hmmmm not a bad idea.

If I pop the chain case off, would be 8.5oz of fluid to replace correct? Synthetic gear oil rated at SL-5?

Im just reading up on some of this stuff. Not like I didn thave all summer to do it

The apex is half apart waiting on the suspension parts so no big deal.

 

[Taz107]

hmmmm not a bad idea.

If I pop the chain case off, would be 8.5oz of fluid to replace correct? Synthetic gear oil rated at SL-5?

Im just reading up on some of this stuff. Not like I didn thave all summer to do it

The apex is half apart waiting on the suspension parts so no big deal.

4 oz if you have reverse...follow marks on the dipstick (one side for reverse, one side for without) and don't overfill...

 

[Kevin Garceau]

4 oz for entire deal...OK thanks.

Seems simple enough. Dont know why I read 8.5oz

 

[Taz107]

No worries, just did mine and thought 8 oz as well for some reason...think that is what the manual said...

Just watch the gasket on the chaincase...might want to do a search on it, were some issues with the early ones...