Belt Squeal

Ya they do that sometimes when there not under a load, you can try tapping the brake when you let off the gas sometimes that will work. I think the best way is to leave your side panel off and go for short rides around your yard and adjust it that way. If your belt is not squealing at idle your probably pretty close. You are better to have your deflection on the lose side anyways. Some guys make a big deal about deflection in all honestly mine is a little bit below the sheave.
 
Once deflection is adjusted properly and you're not getting good backshift. Wrap the secondary spring up another 10 degrees. There are many more ways to achieve this, but i would start there.
 
Once deflection is adjusted properly and you're not getting good backshift. Wrap the secondary spring up another 10 degrees. There are many more ways to achieve this, but i would start there.

That is Chinese to me lol. I've never had a secondary apart.
 
Ok, well it's easy enough to adjust for deflection. Just take the secondary bolt out and put a shim on the bolt inside the large washer. Start there and if you have any questions PM me
 
Stock pink secondary spring is very weak. Get a Dalton or TP orange and that belt will snap back to the top of the secondary. Much better backshift also. My sled had the same problem also.
 
When revving on the stand, the track will grab cause of no lubrication which will make it seem like the secondary doesn't come back to normal. This is why when the throttle was bumped, the secondary would come back to normal.

As @jonlafon1 mentions...do not run your belt above the secondary sheaves as it will cause problems.

This was a sled that was giving me problems and he was ripping the top part of his belt off. (See pic) Now that the top of the belt is sitting flush with the top of the sheaves, no more issues.

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When revving on the stand, the track will grab cause of no lubrication which will make it seem like the secondary doesn't come back to normal. This is why when the throttle was bumped, the secondary would come back to normal.

As @jonlafon1 mentions...do not run your belt above the secondary sheaves as it will cause problems.

This was a sled that was giving me problems and he was ripping the top part of his belt off. (See pic) Now that the top of the belt is sitting flush with the top of the sheaves, no more issues.

View attachment 159989

Thanks, I think I have it set good right now. Unfortunately the weather isn't looking good so I may not get to run it until next year to verify.

The adjuster was very easy to install. Thanks again for getting it out, no worries on the mix up.
 
Everyone that I have talked to, including myself, with a 21 is having this issue. I have my deflection set the same as I have since my pair of '18s. I have a spring from Thunder sitting on the workbench (along with a TAPP primary, thanks!!) that I will be installing hopefully in the next week. Will report back.
 
Everyone that I have talked to, including myself, with a 21 is having this issue. I have my deflection set the same as I have since my pair of '18s. I have a spring from Thunder sitting on the workbench (along with a TAPP primary, thanks!!) that I will be installing hopefully in the next week. Will report back.

Interesting, wonder what changed for '21
 
Interesting, wonder what changed for '21
I am guessing either the spring, or what its set to. Thats the only thing that makes sense to me. But that's just a guess.
 
Take off your airbox cover and see how much oil is running down onto the clutches.

When did they go to the heated ROV and drain it to the air box? I can't recall.

Had a friend that switched out to a new style heated roll over valve and now its spewing oil right onto the clutch and belt from the airbox. He was complying about squealing every now and again and discovered it was indeed the oil getting onto the clutch and belt. Yet another reason to do the ROV delete. I've been deleting them on most of the sled that come thru here.
 
Take off your airbox cover and see how much oil is running down onto the clutches.

When did they go to the heated ROV and drain it to the air box? I can't recall.

Had a friend that switched out to a new style heated roll over valve and now its spewing oil right onto the clutch and belt from the airbox. He was complying about squealing every now and again and discovered it was indeed the oil getting onto the clutch and belt. Yet another reason to do the ROV delete. I've been deleting them on most of the sled that come thru here.

I'll take a look during spring service. Again, we are most likely done for the year. I really hate to delete it. If I do, I'd prefer a catch can vs dumping to the ground/atmosphere. I've considered leaving it in place and moving the hose from the air box to a catch can. I agree putting the oil through the intake system will ultimately create a mess. I deleted my wife's MB but didn't do the CCV. Her turbo, intercooler, and intake are full of oil. I'll be rerouting that and cleaning the system this spring.
 
Take off your airbox cover and see how much oil is running down onto the clutches.

When did they go to the heated ROV and drain it to the air box? I can't recall.

Had a friend that switched out to a new style heated roll over valve and now its spewing oil right onto the clutch and belt from the airbox. He was complying about squealing every now and again and discovered it was indeed the oil getting onto the clutch and belt. Yet another reason to do the ROV delete. I've been deleting them on most of the sled that come thru here.

2020 is when they started running the hose to the air box. I run the hose out of the bottom of the sled. Every time I put the sled away (either in cold trailer or heated shop) it barfs out a fair amount of oil/water residue onto the floor. No doubt that can flood an air box over time and leak out.
 


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