bender turbo blowing massive oil Do INeed seals or send out?

Bender Stage II

I think my jet is still the original 90. Should I pull it apart again and replace it?

Big question. I haven't had a chance to run the sled other than in the garage. I noticed that it is spitting some oil drops/mist out the back. I have ran it a couple times so far and there is evidence on the floor of oil spots. Tonight I put the chaincase back on and ran it for about 10 minutes. When I shut it off, I could hear sizzling out of the exhaust pipe and there was a faint smell of oil. Does all of this mean the seals are shot? Is it just because I haven't ran it hard yet? Where is the fuse for the oil pump? I don't have a manual so I can't look it up.

What does it cost to put new seals into the turbo? About how long can I expect to be down without the sled? We have a trip out West planned in four weeks and I need the sled.

HELP!!!! LOL

Lance
 
Thanks guys. I have nothing against wishfull thinking but I am doubtfull. With the previous owner drag racing to the point of needing to rebuild the motor presumably with this 200 jet. If the turbo can be ruined by the wrong jet this one likely is. It has me looking at some saab garretts but I would need to start over on at least the exhaust and likely every step of the way. No time for that,winter is going to return in the next week. At this point I am going to put it all together with the added coolant lines, change the oil....I just remembered my black light/dye kit...hmm dye it start with turbo off..observe exhaust for any signs of dye. Then try with turbo installed but not connected to the charge pipe. repeat. Good idea? Maybe a better idea is a oil catcher/drain in the charge tube or better yet the intercooler that drains right back in the oil res. One more Y won't hurt
;)!
 
vtrxrider said:
The breather IS routed incorrectly behind the charge tube. Before I got a scan of the instructions I put a spacer behind the tube and made it better but it is hard to tell if it has collapsed inside. I will see if I can track down the snap-on truck and get a leak down testerand do comp test right now. I will post my findings. One thing I missed was the oil tank did have pressure in it when it was choking on the oil. Thanks and Ted do you take pay-pal? I heard you stock the billet tops and t's? From what I have read I will be wanting them soon. Thanks alot. We are forcasted to get a noreaster after this warm up.
Click to expand...

Yes I take Pay Pal email me for details, tedj@turboaddictionparts.com

The Breather is very important there can NOT be any crankcase pressure or the turbo will leak oil into the charge pipes and exhaust.

That I why I am suggesting the compression and leak down test, the leak down being most important.

I was Idleing my 03 warrior on the stand, 2 years ago and I put my finger on the crank case hose for 2-3 seconds and I could not see out my garage door this thing smoked like it was its JOB.

Nothing wrong with that turbo at all.

So I can't stress enough that you can't have any crankcase pressure crankcase pressure comes from compression leaking by the rings and not being able to vent it as fast as it builds.

Ted.
 
I run a .035 restrictor in the oil line.With that restrictor,the return pump working and a good crankcase vent your turbo will not spit oil.If so ,the turbo is damaged.Simple test,,,,clean turbo compressor then start engine with the charge tube off at turbo and watch for oil spitting. A 5 minute run should tell you
 
Ted, For the tests I have to get a adapter for compression and buy the leak down tester at the same time. Thanks alot for the support and assistance. I will get a hold of you about the billet stuff when I get to that point.
Hurricane, Thanks also for the info. 35 seems small but so didn't the 200. It still seems wierd to have to rip carbs apart until I find the right jet and then plug my oil feed with it :rocks:
 
HURRICANE said:
I run a .035 restrictor in the oil line.With that restrictor,the return pump working and a good crankcase vent your turbo will not spit oil.If so ,the turbo is damaged.Simple test,,,,clean turbo compressor then start engine with the charge tube off at turbo and watch for oil spitting. A 5 minute run should tell you
Click to expand...



Hurricane is right on this I have ran .035 NOS jet in line, on every tubro job we do and you would think that was not much oil but it is.. I have use .60 to but still smoked...

and if you had to much blow by you would see oil in the engine area put a jet inline and RIDE!
 
The hole in the jet needs to be .035in,however you achieve that


What they are saying is that a OEM Mikuni 35 pilot jet would do the trick for you.
 
I thought it would be easier to find one in my m/c carb collection. Wrong all big and I gave up and got one from a local shop with a drawer full. The best he could do was .070 and I ordered a .035 and .050. I am trying to get to some local drag races today to give it a try! Thanks again to all that helped. :rules
 
Good thing I got to the track late and I could not compete. Heading back to the truck and yes probably showing off I flick the switch to stage two..POP.. I get in the truck and discover the intercooler blew off! A very happy moment and glad it didn't happen on the track! :moon: I will be ready next time.
 
I'm running the .35 jet on my bender now. I don't see smoke and only rarely smell oil burning, but am still going through 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart of oil in a hard days riding. Breathers not plugged, no oil in the air box, I checked compression and it is 30psi per cylinder higher than my stock Ton with 7500 miles on it. I run my oil pump after shutdown when I remember to. I haven't re-routed my oil return line to the oil tank like some have suggested. The thing runs fine. I am just going to chalk the oil consumption up to part of the cost of running a turbo, for now. My Subaru loyale uses oil and I have 340,000 reliable miles on it.
 
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