Best/favorite groomed trail track

[Fast]

Agree w YamaJon. I too ride almost exclusively groomed trails. To me, what I want is TRACTION corner to corner (both accel out of corner and decel into corner). Part of my groomed trail riding includes occasionally crossing lakes and running forestry roads. So, I want a track that has a balance between aggressive traction in groomed trails yet still have ability for good top end (relatively short straightaways). We all know a track with lots of long studs will give us the traction corner to corner but at some sacrifice on top end (compared to a comparable sled and track with lesser studs and shorter lug heights). I like the 1.25" RipSaw 2 my Cat came with. Not as aggressive as a the traditional RipSaw 1 but still not bad. I studded it up with 192 ea. 1.62" StudBoy Lake Racer Carbide studs mounted on double StudBoy ProLite backers (center belt only). I find this setup just right for my riding style with a 280HP tune. Of course, you need to balance the front end with appropriate carbides/skis.
BTW- I have also run all aluminum setups too. I weighed and calculated weights for both. The double ProLite backers set up is lighter by 15%.

Must be hard to corrner with studs in the center only

 

[Big_Phil]

Must be hard to corrner with studs in the center only

It’s actually harder to corner with studs on the outside belt. The sled wants to go straight vs turning.

 

[Fast]

WHAT TRACK to USE?
For thousands of years there have been many questions that mankind has tumultuously pondered.

Is there a GOD?
Are there Aliens out there?
What came first, the Chicken or the Egg?
Where is this damn G-Spot?
What track do i use?

I can only give my opinion based on my MANY tracks throughout the years.
STAIN mentioned he rides ALL Groomed trails so 1.25'' should be more then adequate.
For me there are only 2 choices. The RIP II or the Ice-Attack.
I had over 14,000 HARD miles on my Ice-Ripper on my Apex. It was for ME & MY trails, the BEST all around track for traction, top speed, stopping & LONGEVITY!

IT DID NOT WORK on my Winder!
Just not enough traction. Hard pack early mornings i STAINED me under britches.
Now mine is a 137'' so it didn't transfer like STAIN's 129 either. I'm also 165 lbs & was fighting handling issues when i had it on.
I put 7500 on my RIP II with 96 studs up the middle with Ecotrail until 4 studs came out.
The RIP II is just a great GROOMED TRAIL track. Some tracks do other things very well, but the RIP is Groomed King!

I believe BEERMAN runs a Storm & he says in the looser snow where he rides it really shines. He also admits on harder pack it's just not as good as the RIP.

MY .02 cents
Now worth .03 cents since my 401k made 12% this year.

P.S: I did not intend to compare STAIN to any fecal matter in me britches.
P.S II: Is there any posts on this G-Spot thing i can look up? I have a date tonite....

No
Yes
Chicken
Who cares
Storm 150

WHAT TRACK to USE?
For thousands of years there have been many questions that mankind has tumultuously pondered.

Is there a GOD?
Are there Aliens out there?
What came first, the Chicken or the Egg?
Where is this damn G-Spot?
What track do i use?

I can only give my opinion based on my MANY tracks throughout the years.
STAIN mentioned he rides ALL Groomed trails so 1.25'' should be more then adequate.
For me there are only 2 choices. The RIP II or the Ice-Attack.
I had over 14,000 HARD miles on my Ice-Ripper on my Apex. It was for ME & MY trails, the BEST all around track for traction, top speed, stopping & LONGEVITY!

IT DID NOT WORK on my Winder!
Just not enough traction. Hard pack early mornings i STAINED me under britches.
Now mine is a 137'' so it didn't transfer like STAIN's 129 either. I'm also 165 lbs & was fighting handling issues when i had it on.
I put 7500 on my RIP II with 96 studs up the middle with Ecotrail until 4 studs came out.
The RIP II is just a great GROOMED TRAIL track. Some tracks do other things very well, but the RIP is Groomed King!

I believe BEERMAN runs a Storm & he says in the looser snow where he rides it really shines. He also admits on harder pack it's just not as good as the RIP.

MY .02 cents
Now worth .03 cents since my 401k made 12% this year.

P.S: I did not intend to compare STAIN to any fecal matter in me britches.
P.S II: Is there any posts on this G-Spot thing i can look up? I have a date tonite....

It’s actually harder to corner with studs on the outside belt. The sled wants to go straight vs turning.

Wrong

 

[Turboflash]

Agree Big_Phil - The more studs there in the outside belts, the harder it is to turn. Look at this way, with no studs at all you might be able to get by with 4" of carbide runners on skis. Once you start to add studs, no matter how many or where they are, you have to increase the amount of steering traction you have or the sled won't turn as well (as with no studs). Similarly, the more studs you have in the outer belts, the more steering carbide you need to be able to turn. My stud setup favors best straight-ahead traction, albeit at some sacrifice to turning traction. If I want to turn better, I'd have to add studs in the outside belts AND add/increase turning carbide and/or change/adjust chassis setup to increase pressure on front skis or carbides.

 

[WinterWolf]

Bottom line...no matter how you stud, as long as you compensate up front, and with possible chassis pressure/limiter strap adjustments, you’ll be just fine!!

Started studding my sleds 20 years ago with my Spring order 2000 LE Green T. Cat 1000, and starting with that sled, I always stud the outside belt of the track, and as long as you compensate up front, she’ll turn/corner like she’s on rails!! PERIOD!!

No different Today with my Winder! I’m studded, 129” track, 180 studs (4 singles every row) outside too, and with the proper carbide up front....no issues at all with cornering/steering!!