I am done riding this season now so is it better to change the oil now before storage or wait until I get it out in the fall/winter?
YamahaRx-Warrior
Expert
My engine teacher at school said to always change it before you put it away becuase there is comtamints in the oil that are bad for the motor to sit in there all summer.
I change Mine right after the last ride let it run for 5 minutes then store it.
Justin
I change Mine right after the last ride let it run for 5 minutes then store it.
Justin
DYNAREX
Expert
best thing is to change now get the acids out that attack the bearing surfaces-i usually just change the oil with a cheapo brand and not the filter-then run it a little and fog the engine/stabilize fuel and drain carbs-rmove battery -then before you ride next year run it and heat it up-then put in good oil and new filter
That is a good idea dynarex. I guess the worst part is the filter .
ger
ger
VT_BluYamaha54
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DYNAREX said:best thing is to change now get the acids out that attack the bearing surfaces-i usually just change the oil with a cheapo brand and not the filter-then run it a little and fog the engine/stabilize fuel and drain carbs-rmove battery -then before you ride next year run it and heat it up-then put in good oil and new filter
I would disagree: the filter is potentially packed with contaminants; e.g moisture, acids, etc. Why would you drain 85% of the oil and then refill the crankcase with "cheap oil" that will:
a). become immediately contaminated with the contents from the unchanged filter
b). later dilute/mix the "good oil" with the "cheap oil" in the Fall when you do part 2??
I'm not a big fan of intermixing different oils in the first place and would recommend doing the whole job now and be done with it. You are going to have to take all the covers off again to catch the oil you will lose when you remove the filter anyway so why do all the work 2x? Besides, what are you really saving since you are buying an extra 3+ qts of oil?
Just my $0.02 worth - and quite a few years of mechanical experience.
jimmie d
TY 4 Stroke Master
Also do not FOG the engine on a 4 stroke.
Jim
Jim
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Glad to see this thread.
Dynarex and GreenMachine please expand on your statements and explain why.
Enquiring minds want to know.
Thanks,
Dave
PS: I change my oil & filter in the fall on the Diesel Auxilary in my Racing Sailboat and the big block Chevy in My 240 Z Mariah. I also fog the Mariah.
I do this because my mechanics recommend it . Never any problems. The diesel is 20 years old and the 454 Magnum is 10.
I am not claiming that my mechanics are the sharpest knives in the drawer and therefore am willing to listen to other solutions but I would like to know the reason behind the actions.
Dynarex and GreenMachine please expand on your statements and explain why.
Enquiring minds want to know.
Thanks,
Dave
PS: I change my oil & filter in the fall on the Diesel Auxilary in my Racing Sailboat and the big block Chevy in My 240 Z Mariah. I also fog the Mariah.
I do this because my mechanics recommend it . Never any problems. The diesel is 20 years old and the 454 Magnum is 10.
I am not claiming that my mechanics are the sharpest knives in the drawer and therefore am willing to listen to other solutions but I would like to know the reason behind the actions.
JDKRXW
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I'm also curious as to why you shouldn't fog a 4 stroke. :?:
VT_BluYamaha54
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JDKRXW said:I'm also curious as to why you shouldn't fog a 4 stroke. :?:
OK, got my attention too.
Most of the commercially available fogging oils include 4 strokes in the recommendations/directions for use and I can't imagine why you would not fog?? Other than possible gumming in the intake manifold (a stretch) I'm at a loss on this one.
VT_Blu
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I am wondering about the fogging too. I had boats for years and the marina always fogged my engines when they winterized the boats at the end of the season. I think you want to protect all the metal with that oil film? I know I will be fogging my turbo. I certainly don't want it to rust. I know you want to run it hot for the last time too make sure all the condensation is out of there.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
I would thing that it would be way better to just start the damned thing up once a month. Do a complete oil change NOW rather than needlessly doing it twice, and warm it up to HOT once a month.
DYNAREX
Expert
STARTING IT EVERY SO OFTEN JUST ADDS MORE COMBUSTION CONTAMINANTS TO THE OIL-THEREBY CREATING MORE ACIDS
JUST FLUSH OUT OIL TANK GOOD AND PUT A LITTL OIL IN CYLINDERS TO
KEEP CYLINDER WALLS OILED
CHANGE OIL AND FILTER BEFORE RIDING BECAUSE OF THE MOISTURE THATS ACCUMULATED OVER THE SUMMER
JUST FLUSH OUT OIL TANK GOOD AND PUT A LITTL OIL IN CYLINDERS TO
KEEP CYLINDER WALLS OILED
CHANGE OIL AND FILTER BEFORE RIDING BECAUSE OF THE MOISTURE THATS ACCUMULATED OVER THE SUMMER
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Doing a full oil change and starting it every month will introduce LESS contaminants than not changing the filter :!:
jimmie d
TY 4 Stroke Master
Last issue of Supertrax, "Summerizing Your Sled Step #7"
" However, fogging the engine and putting oil in the cylinders is not a good idea (4-strokes) "
Jim
" However, fogging the engine and putting oil in the cylinders is not a good idea (4-strokes) "
Jim
DYNAREX
Expert
THE FEW OUNCES IN THE FILTER IS TOO SMALL TO WORRY ABOUT HAVING ANY EFFECT ON NEW OIL-THATS WHY YAMAHA DOSENT SAY TO CHANGE IT EVERY TIME WITH YOUR OIL
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