Bleeding Brakes NIGHTMARE!

[Paystar]

Good evening guys,

I'm at a loss with bleeding the breaks on my 2023 9000. First, I attempted to do it like the service manual states. That was a total failure. Last year I took Fleecer's help and used a oiler with brake fluid and pumped it through the bleed screw into the reservoir which worked. But this year after a track replacement I cant get any of these methods to work. I've been one full day on this.

My process:

Open reservoir cover. loosen bleed screw and pump until most of the fluid is out of the reservoir. Note that when I press the break it only spits and sputters fluid out the bleeder screw. After a while and I get it down a little I put a new 3/8 hose on the end of my brand-new Goldenrod bleeder and attach the other end of the hose to the bleeder valve. I hose clamp both ends.
I make slow and controlled pumps and can watch the bubbles come through the reservoir as it fills up. While the hose is still tight to the bleeder screw I turn it tight, put the cover back on the reservoir, screw it down and take the hose off the bleeder.

Pump the lever and its loose. I redo the process again and again and its acts the same way. I've even separated the caliper again and unhood the fill line to the caliper and pumped. it just spits and sputters. There are no leaks anywhere.

Thank you guys for your time! I never thought bleeding these would be harder than a motor job!

 

[KnappAttack]

You must have split the caliper I take it. The best way is to open the bleader and inject new brake fluid from the bottom using a large syringe full of brake fluid with the air bleed out of the syringe. It the best and only way I'll do it. Take all the fluid out from the master cylinder reservoir and inject from the bottom while tapping on the brake hose until it's full or almost full, suck more out of the master cylinder reservoir if you have to make more room for fluid with a separate syringe or mitty-vac, this will drive all the air bubbles from the brake line upwards. This should move all the air from the hose and caliper up and out of the system. Trying to do it from the top down is going to give you fits introduce air bubbles and would take forever. Another trick is when the system is full or almost full is to turn the bars so the hose can move all the air bubbles in it to the master cylinder, then lightly tap and keep tapping the brake lever, you'll see little minute small air bubbles come to the top and out, do this for a final finish after bleeding the air from the caliper also.

 

[74Nitro]

I'll add that it often helps to treat the banjo bolts like bleed screws, especially the top one.

 

[Paystar]

You must have split the caliper I take it. The best way is to open the bleader and inject new brake fluid from the bottom using a large syringe full of brake fluid with the air bleed out of the syringe. It the best and only way I'll do it. Take all the fluid out from the master cylinder reservoir and inject from the bottom while tapping on the brake hose until it's full or almost full, suck more out of the master cylinder reservoir if you have to make more room for fluid with a separate syringe or mitty-vac, this will drive all the air bubbles from the brake line upwards. This should move all the air from the hose and caliper up and out of the system. Trying to do it from the top down is going to give you fits introduce air bubbles and would take forever. Another trick is when the system is full or almost full is to turn the bars so the hose can move all the air bubbles in it to the master cylinder, then lightly tap and keep tapping the brake lever, you'll see little minute small air bubbles come to the top and out, do this for a final finish after bleeding the air from the caliper also.

Yeah unfortunately I had to split the caliper as I couldn't get the pistons to close enough to put the pads back in. I will shop around for a large enough syringe and try this as well.

 

[Paystar]

You must have split the caliper I take it. The best way is to open the bleader and inject new brake fluid from the bottom using a large syringe full of brake fluid with the air bleed out of the syringe. It the best and only way I'll do it. Take all the fluid out from the master cylinder reservoir and inject from the bottom while tapping on the brake hose until it's full or almost full, suck more out of the master cylinder reservoir if you have to make more room for fluid with a separate syringe or mitty-vac, this will drive all the air bubbles from the brake line upwards. This should move all the air from the hose and caliper up and out of the system. Trying to do it from the top down is going to give you fits introduce air bubbles and would take forever. Another trick is when the system is full or almost full is to turn the bars so the hose can move all the air bubbles in it to the master cylinder, then lightly tap and keep tapping the brake lever, you'll see little minute small air bubbles come to the top and out, do this for a final finish after bleeding the air from the caliper also.

Are you attaching a 3/8 hose from the syringe to the bleeder?

 

[74Nitro]

Livestock syringe.
Go to a veterinary store.

 

[KnappAttack]

Are you attaching a 3/8 hose from the syringe to the bleeder?

That sounds too big, but whatever fits the bleeder.

 

[Paystar]

Well I did the syringe method. I repeated this process 6 times. I see the air bubbles come up through then they stop and there’s some resistance to the syringe, I get it 3/4 full turn the bleeder closed while hose is tight on it. Put the rubber and cover in the reservoir, screw it down.
No breaks.

 

[KnappAttack]

Well I did the syringe method. I repeated this process 6 times. I see the air bubbles come up through then they stop and there’s some resistance to the syringe, I get it 3/4 full turn the bleeder closed while hose is tight on it. Put the rubber and cover in the reservoir, screw it down.
No breaks.

Then you are not getting the air out, or still introducing air, plain and simple. Prior to putting on the cover you need to keep tapping the lever quickly with the hose at an upward angle so air rises up and you will see bubbles and ever so slight bit of air coming from piston on master cylinder and reservoir. Make sure the hose has all upwards angle in it and no place to trap air. Tap the hose so the air rises to the top. The tiny air bubbles want to stick to the hose, you have to get them to rise to the top while tapping the lever, you will see the steam of bubbles come from the master cylinder up thru the reservoir up without the cover on it. The lever will firm up once you get all the air out. It’s not that hard, but you have to work to get the air out.

 

[KnappAttack]

If you have spots in the hose that are trapping air the brakes will not respond. Hose has to have no spots in it that loop up or trap air. You can’t just inject, put the cover on and expect it to work without working to rid the system of ALL the air. This includes air at the bleed screw as well. Any high point in the system will hold air.

 

[74Nitro]

When you put the caliper back together did you check to make sure the 0-ring was in place?

 

[sideshowBob]

When you put the caliper back together did you check to make sure the 0-ring was in place?

I was thinking the same...maybe an internal leak in the caliper?

 

[74Nitro]

I have also found that it helps to have the pistons fully retracted which reduces the amount of air in the caliper.

 

[0degC]

Well I did the syringe method. I repeated this process 6 times. I see the air bubbles come up through then they stop and there’s some resistance to the syringe, I get it 3/4 full turn the bleeder closed while hose is tight on it. Put the rubber and cover in the reservoir, screw it down.
No breaks.

Push up from bleeder as said, only way I have had any success. Try loosening 14mm banjo bolt at reservoir and get fluid coming out there.

 

[Paystar]

The o ring is in place and looks solid and the pistons are fully retracted. S up