Bogie and Idler wheel replacement

[polaris87]

I got into replacing wheel bearings this weekend. The 4 wheels up front had 6205 bearings. I measured them and they are 135mm. Look like ski-doo wheels to me. Someone replaced them at one time. When I got to the back 2 wheels, they were different. One had a 6205 and the other had 6005. They were also smaller than the other 4 wheels up front...I guess the guy hadn't changed them. I replaced them with 135mm ski-doo wheels from royal distributing for 22.99 and they have 6205 bearings. Now all the small idlers have the same bearings and the 6205 are bigger so maybe they'll last a bit longer. Anyway, I hope the bigger wheels work well. They were on the sled when my buddy bought it and he drove it for about 800 miles with no trouble. Hopefully they work well for me as well.

 

[Kaz]

When installing the rear inner wheels with 6205 bearings you need to remove 1.5 mm from the idler wheel mount to get the wheel centered in the track lugs.
The 6005 bearing and 6205 bearing are not the same width, I pretty sure theres a 3 mm difference, ones 12 mm wide and the other 15 mm.

I'm sure some one will chime in if I got the numbers wrong.

Kaz

 

[polaris87]

I knew there had to be a reason why. Urg. So now I need a 135mm wheel that uses a 6005 bearing. Or I guess a 5.125 wheel will have to work. Where do you machine 1.5mm off? The shoulder of the mount? Where the bearing sits up against. You need to move the wheel in towards the rail 1.5mm?

 

[Kaz]

I knew there had to be a reason why. Urg. So now I need a 135mm wheel that uses a 6005 bearing. Or I guess a 5.125 wheel will have to work. Where do you machine 1.5mm off? The shoulder of the mount? Where the bearing sits up against. You need to move the wheel in towards the rail 1.5mm?

Royal Distributing now sell a 135 mm wheel that looks similar to the new Yamaha spoked wheel, part # 04-4135-20 (page 169) and comes with 6005 bearing. Just purchase two of them and your go to go for the rear.

Kaz

 

[Mooseman]

I just tried to order that wheel from my local dealer and it's backordered until mid Dec. Excell also has them (they actually invented them) but there is extra shipping charges and they only ship by UPS, which will also incur extra cu$tom$ brokerage fee$.
http://www.excellmotorsports.com

 

[polaris87]

So, in order to run a 6205 bearing, you need to remove 0.060" off the bracket so that the wheel will go in closer to the rails? I already have 135mm wheels that take a 6205 so I'd be saving $60. I just need to know how much to remove so I can take it to the machinest tomorrow morning. Thanks!

 

[Kaz]

So, in order to run a 6205 bearing, you need to remove 0.060" off the bracket so that the wheel will go in closer to the rails? I already have 135mm wheels that take a 6205 so I'd be saving $60. I just need to know how much to remove so I can take it to the machinest tomorrow morning. Thanks!

 

[polaris87]

Ok thanks...That looks like more than 0.060" though...

 

[Kaz]

The differences between the 6005 and 6205 bearing is 3 mm, so you have to take half that off the idler wheel mount, 1.5 mm = 0.060"

Kaz

 

[Mooseman]

Or use Doo mounts like in this thread:
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=78847

I did it. Works great.

 

[polaris87]

Ok thanks! There sure is a lot of choices and mods to this skid. And it all seems to be flaws of Yamaha...My shock is near wore out on the front eye. Glad I saw the pipe trick or put 2 bearings on each side of the mount. Have to say, I've never saw such a poorly designed skid...The wires to the $2000 Ohlins shock really makes me wonder. Who cares if you can adjust it on the gauges. That was another part I had to replace. Wires riped out of the solenoid. There was more work on the skid than replacing all the chaincase and clutch side bearings...lol