SnowBandit
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I keep tightening them and they keep coming loose. I have put red locktie on them and still they come loose.. Any ideas?
As of right now I am not happy with the m20. It has let me down many times already in under 500 miles.
As of right now I am not happy with the m20. It has let me down many times already in under 500 miles.
yamaha1973
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even with red loctite? wow! try the green loctite suppose to be stronger...
Which bolts? Red loctite needs cure time.
yamaha1973
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make sure you have clean surfaces as well, the green will not come apart without alot of heat so this should be a last reasort
SnowBandit
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all three rear bolts on both sides.. Tunnel mounts bracket mounts and then the one that holds the cross shaft to the brackets.
Has gotten so bad I stop every 15 to 20 miles to check and tighten them... Both surfaces were clean when red was applied and it was left to sit over night without being touched inside a heated garage.
Will not use green as I need to take this skid out from time to time... Green is a super hard to get out...
Has gotten so bad I stop every 15 to 20 miles to check and tighten them... Both surfaces were clean when red was applied and it was left to sit over night without being touched inside a heated garage.
Will not use green as I need to take this skid out from time to time... Green is a super hard to get out...
Contact Fast Something is missing causing a harmonic vibration maybe.
Irv
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1995 XLT SP (Son's)
bottlerocket said:Contact Fast Something is missing causing a harmonic vibration maybe.
My thoughts as well, possibly some washers/bushings or the like that will help keep the bolts from turning/spinning as the suspesion is.
cudase
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I had a similar problem on my m10 on my Vmax. Nord-lock washers from mcmaster carr and blue locktite solved the problem completely.
snoprof6
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the locktite tape works awesome too
CaptCaper
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I'd go new bolts,locknuts,washers Loctite and let cure in a warm area during the week.
I had the same problem with my front mounting bolts to the point they oblonged my tunnel. I fabricated 1/8" Steel plates and mounted them on the outside of the tunnel in the foorwell and remounted the bolts with new lock/flat washers. Brian @ Fast told me to use RED LOCTITE and torque to 70/ftlbs. I rode last weekend for about 180miles and they seem to be holding. Good luck! 

wkeggenhoff
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locktight
Make sure you clean nut and nolt to remove an oil residue etc. Red should not come loose and green is like welding them. Make sure they cure at room temp. If ts it cold out and you are doing in a garage you need to have a small heater on them to keep them warm while they cure.
If they are tight, and claen there is no way they will come loose, regaurdless if ther are harmonics or not.
Make sure you clean nut and nolt to remove an oil residue etc. Red should not come loose and green is like welding them. Make sure they cure at room temp. If ts it cold out and you are doing in a garage you need to have a small heater on them to keep them warm while they cure.
If they are tight, and claen there is no way they will come loose, regaurdless if ther are harmonics or not.
sk-rx1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I have had some experience with loctite in high vibration areas, did not work well. We went to the nord-lock washers and they seemed to do the trick.
On the right side has a notch in it to work the arms to hold the track up if not in properly could be problem. that is at the top of the rear arm.The aluminum block.If you call teamfast they would be glad to help you out.
smalltownpower
Expert
if you've had the bolts out multiple times i would replace them with new bolts for a tighter fit in the threads. we had terrible problems with bolts coming undone on the y-pipe of our rev. replaced with new bolts and they stayed tighter longer, but still came loose. the only thing that kept them in was nordlock washers.
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