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Breaking in the new sled in the Black Hills!

canoehead said:
You tweaked your subframe. Some guys just use a 3-4 foot hunk of pipe or metal pry bar and bend it back. Your'e not the first nor the last this has happened to.
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Holy Snapper, Seriously. Does it have to be a serious hit to one arm/ski? That's scary as heck being a new XTX owner as well. My 07 was an eX race sled, i've pounded on it hard for 10000kms, landed hard on 1 ski many many times and never seen shocks out like that. Broken skid arm, several times there. Tweeking frame and it being being straightend with a bar between arms really really scares me. Hope that never happens.
I'd be carefull if not use a piece of angle iron or 2x4 to spread the load across the arm if bending back. A small dent in the arm would be an instant weak link in its strength IMO. Sub frame in my race quads i've tweeked before. Cast aluminum. Once tweeked one way, it (experienced) almost always breaks trying to bend it back. Hope these Phazers subframes aren't aluminum!!
 

Just finished 120 mile round trip to the dealer. He said to start the process of filing the insurance claim...it was going to be expensive just to take everything apart to locate where the bent part (s) is. He also said to fix it right you have to replace everything that is comprised, or that will become the new weak part. $125 to get an estimate of how much it will cost to repair to provide to insurance.

Reading these other threads, it looks like this might be an intention of the design. Rather than the A arms "giving out" like other brands to absorb impact, the yamaha's are built strong enough that things don't break...they bend. This keeps you going on the trails, which is a good thing...but means much more expensive repairs after you do get home. If I can get insurance to cover the damage this time and return it to factory new condition, I might have a machine for sale with 100 miles on it for a really good price.

Dealer said they were slow, so I should have a call before the end of the day tomorrow regarding the extent of the damage.
 
I can agree with the bend not break.
Sorry to hear of this issue you have to deal with now. Bummer. But at least your still able to play!!!
 
Are you mechanicly inclined? If so you could could probably fix it for under $500.
 
Wow. Was that a fairly good hit on a ski on one side that tweeked the frame?

Almost worries me a wee bit to be pro active rather than re-active.
 
Oh man, sorry for your luck with the bent sub frame. You can find good used ones for $350 or less. I bought a used one from from Travis @
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/f-s-sled-part-outs-barn-of-parts-sled-salvage.127688/

It is not a hard job to replace the sub frame. There are a number of threads on here on how to do it. I had some new powder coat done for like $80 to the used one I bought and my sled looks better than new. What bends is the metal mounting tabs were the A arm bushing/pivots mount.

As for darting you might try shimming the back of the ski rubbers.

For an easier time starting the sled, mine starts way better cold or hot when I crack the throttle a little bit when I hit the starter.

Good luck. G.B.
 
Thanks guys....appreciate all the suggestions. I should hear the insurance adjuster report in the next few days after he has been to the shop to look at it. I have not even made the first payment on it...so I am sure the bank wants it fixed like new.
 
flyinghigh said:
Thanks guys....appreciate all the suggestions. I should hear the insurance adjuster report in the next few days after he has been to the shop to look at it. I have not even made the first payment on it...so I am sure the bank wants it fixed like new.
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Bright side at least you got the 1st "door ding" outa the way. :sled1:
 
The other bright side is I was not all that convinced the selling dealer did a proper job of assembly...so now I will be able to have a top rate dealer take it all apart and put it all back together and be assured it has been done right.
 
flyinghigh said:
The other bright side is I was not all that convinced the selling dealer did a proper job of assembly...so now I will be able to have a top rate dealer take it all apart and put it all back together and be assured it has been done right.
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About the only thing the dealer does is adjust handle bars, install battery, check oil, add very little fuel and give it a brief run up. Minimal minimal assy.
 
Good to hear you got out. I was hoping you would be able to once we got snow. Looks like our next storm is on the way for the Dakotas and MN this weekend!!

Yup, I think we have all tweaked that subframe. I wrapped mine around a tree, so insurance was my only option. It has happened again, but not as extreme. But enough to make the shock gap uneven. The sled runs straight and the bars are straight, so I don't give it a second thought.

Like others have said, at about 500 miles, it's like a light switch. The ECM will allow that motor to open up a bit more. You will find a few more RPM and it will run a bit faster. Let it warm up fully before taking off and don't touch the throttle while warming up. Be sure that light goes out on the dash before taking off, or shutting it down. This will help avoid fouling the plugs.

Otherwise, gas and go. That 144" track has got to be awesome! We need PICS!!!!
 
flyinghigh said:
The other bright side is I was not all that convinced the selling dealer did a proper job of assembly...so now I will be able to have a top rate dealer take it all apart and put it all back together and be assured it has been done right.
Click to expand...
Off topic a weeee bit
Does yours start with "lo-op" on dash until it fires??? And did it need some gas to get it in and out of reverse?
As for dealers I'm following my local mechanic to his new place of work in winnipeg. He's absolutely the only guy I would take my sled too. He's a customer of mine and actually saved me big time with that code problem I had. Lives a mile away from me and thankfully to my amazement he zipped over and found issue in 3 mins. Anyone in MB that needs a totally trustworthy guy I can pm you the dealer he works at.:worth:
 
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