Broken jackshaft bearing.......Y??

[black knight]

Royal distributing has the bearing.- $20,00 i think. if you are doing the chaincase bearings i believe the bottom one is a 6205 and drawing a blank on the top 2.
There is 3 O rings- seals 2 on the upper and one on the lower shafts on chain side.
you might find them at local auto shop.
I have priced bearings and seals out from oem and its a little pricy.
Royal has kits with everything in the kit but i wouldn't go that cheep.I;m guessing by the blue seal you might have one of those bearings in there.
They have good bearings just by them individually as those are the better bearings.

Popping seals and bearings is easy just go slow and on install throw the bearings in the freezer for a couple hours makes them slide in easier

cheers

 

[ranger1]

Ok, thanks for your help!! I think I will go with OEM because we have no bearing dealer in town & I would like to have the parts by the weekend so I can install them. Secondly, the way that aftermarket bearing broke I think it best to stick with OEM. You are right, the OEM bearing is pricey however......$45!!!!! OUch!!!!

 

[vodoo child]

To me it looks like lack of lubrication. What color was the grease when you repacked the bearing?

I repacked it with white synthetic, it now looks grey.

I wonder if that "white synthetic" grease is heavy enough for a bearing. I clean (WD40) and re-grease every year using the same bearing grease as I used on my trailer. 14,361 miles later I've replaced driveshaft bearing at 6,000 & 12,000 and the jackshaft bearing is original.

I have trailer grease, maybe I will start using that instead, thanks for the tip

I use the Mobile 1 red syn. grease in drive bearings and wheels. 10,350 miles with no issue's.

 

[ranger1]

To me it looks like lack of lubrication. What color was the grease when you repacked the bearing?

I repacked it with white synthetic, it now looks grey.

I wonder if that "white synthetic" grease is heavy enough for a bearing. I clean (WD40) and re-grease every year using the same bearing grease as I used on my trailer. 14,361 miles later I've replaced driveshaft bearing at 6,000 & 12,000 and the jackshaft bearing is original.

I have trailer grease, maybe I will start using that instead, thanks for the tip

I use the Mobile 1 red syn. grease in drive bearings and wheels. 10,350 miles with no issue's.

I use the Mobile 1 white synthetic, is there a difference between the two?

 

[ranger1]

I just noticed the jackshaft bearing that is in there is a 6206, that doesn't have the tapper does it? If it does not then that would explain why the seating area of the bearing broke!

 

[ersky]

thats a bearing that should be replaced not repacked their a special bearing with a tapered inner race . u have to remove the jack shaft to replace it . u cant get them from a bearing supplier special made for yamaha . royal distributing in canada can supply and their cheaper then yamaha .comes in yamaha packaging

 

[black knight]

i do believe that 6206 is a tapered bearing.

I'm wondering if the lock collar just got tighten to much. or bad bearing.

 

[ersky]

it has to have a tappered inner race i changed mine just because i had bought a new 1

 

[Blue Dave]

The jackshaft bearing behind the secondary was as much of a PIA to install as the old one was to remove. I put the new bearing in the freezer and I heated the frame in the area where the bearing mounts. Even with a cold bearing and hot frame it was still a tight press fit. I placed the old bearing against the new bearing and with the help of a large plastic mallet I was able to send it home.

If you replace this bearing note that it is not a standard 6206. It is special in that the inside diameter is tapered. This is so that it mates properly with the taperlock bushing that secures this bearing to the jackshaft. I could not find this special bearing anywhere but from Yamaha. Equally important is the orientation of this bearing when you install it. The larger ID needs to be facing outwards so that it matches the profile of the taperlock bushing OD.

If you change the chaincase oil seals, note that the oil seal in the chaincase cover is special as well. It is a Viton seal that is designed for the higher temperatures that might be transmitted through the jackshaft from the brake rotor. The Viton seal is red in color and costs about three times as much as the two other standard black oil seals. Here are some links to threads showing the extent of this project.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... c&start=15

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... =jackshaft

http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... change.htm

 

[ranger1]

Thanks Dave, I think this is the reason the inner race of this bearing broke, it is a 6206 & I believe it is not tapered, therefore all the pressure was on the clutchside of the bearing where it broke. Nice to know what caused the breakage as the bearing did not fail other than the broken race.

 

[Blue Dave]

If you had a standard 6206 bearing installed in this location that is most likely the cause of the failure. Like I said, I bought all of my other bearings from a bearing supplier where I get wholesale pricing but this special bearing I could only source from Yamaha.

Obviously since the ID is tapered to match the shaft taper it is important to orient it properly when installing it. The larger ID needs to be facing outwards so that it matches the profile of the taperlock bushing OD.

It is a press fit into the frame so I froze the bearing and heated the frame and even then it did not slip in easily. I put the old bearing against the new one to distribute the force evenly and drove it in with a plastic mallet.