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Broken transfer rod

The bolt idea makes sense also, but I think it would interfer with the center rod?
 

If mine blows out again im gonna remove it and forget about it. I dont think my track can handle any more damage from the rod, its pretty tore up.
 
RTXs said:
If mine blows out again im gonna remove it and forget about it. I dont think my track can handle any more damage from the rod, its pretty tore up.


I totally agree....if these things cost 300 bucks,id be removing it altogether and tightening the strap as much as is needed to control too much wheelie...this is how all the OLD sleds were prior to control rods.

then that annoying ROD noise in studder bumps will be gone too!..LOL

Dan
 
Just blew mine out on my SRX (05' MONO SKID) today so i removed the whole dam rod and i did not feel anything rubbing or hitting. Got it home and got a closer look and it appears you could ride without the rod in and not do any further damage to the skid (IMO) but now i have to ride the throttle. Can you ride without the rod and not do any damage?
 
Yep broke mine too, well the threaded coupler pulled out of the cylinder.

Tested without it, not too bad really. If you have good hook-up you will pull the skis by what feels like about 8 inches. Other than full throttle, you might not know that it is missing
 
Well dealer called and they(Yamaha) will warranty it "under good faith". Rep stil told dealer that rod will not come undone or strip if it is adjusted properly. Any who, I'll have a brand new transfer rod for sale for $200 plus shipping to anyone who needs 1. I had purchased it from another dealer friend @ cost, waiting for warranty answer. Anyone need it?
 
Oak, your right. The threads are messed up but I believe it was from the damage after it came apart.
 
How about having a bunch of us try putting Blue Loc-Tite on th ethresded part of the adjuster? Set it the way you like it, turn it out while counting the turns, Loc-Tite it, and screw it back together, then Loc-Tite the jamb nut? I thought about the plastic screw thing as well, and that would be a great possibility as well. I would take my transfer rod out, have someone machine a flat spot (or 2) in the threads so you can contact it on a flat surface.
If the issue is coming from the adjuster nut backing off, how about fashioning some sort of clamp on the aluminum body, and safety wiring the jamb nut, and or the adjuster? As long as it's set right, You shouldn't have to mess with it.
~Nate
 
I finally looked at mine closer,and its adjusted to HALF....I thought it was closer to max all these months...

Danos broke last week,which his was closer to MAX....If you have one for sale can you please PM me about it?..dano might be interested in it.

I HIGHLY recommend keeping it CLOSE to medium setting...If you ride this sled real hard,you MAY breakout threads if set to MAX on wrench.

I have my strap to tightest,only 96 studs and medium transfer on rod..and it still hooks on holeshot..In my case I have no need for max transfer.

On a side note...Dano Loves his new wheelie machine!...LOL...but,it does stay under control If you want it too..

Id say,you very way could ride without the rod altogether without probs....Dano has been!

Dan
 
banging

To reduce the banging noise I removed the nylon washer and installed a rubber one in its place.. I also keep the transfer rod in the middle.
But the sled was lifting the nose too much and the skis would dance coming out of a corner.. This was a workout and very unstable.
I then tightened the limiter strap two holes and the sled handles very flat and hooks up good.
I have a 2006 Attak..
 


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