Building a $6500 4-stroke mountain animal

For sure you shouldn't be blowing belts. I never subscribed to that Polaris primary thing, the Yami clutch works just fine really can't understand why guys do that. The D&R does make them feel long and they are but man can they climb. You got a description or pics of what you did with the icemaker valve, my buddy is interested in that.

Also what have you got the turbo geared at? 19 42 works killer and saves belts.

Rx1M5
 
Sled came with the Polaris primary and I'm trying to avoid spending $ on sleds this year so it's going to have to do for now. As far as the ice maker valve, I could not imagine swapping out jets on the charge tube while riding to I pulled the jet, clamped a rubber hose onto the nipple and ran it to an ice maker valve that I mount just under the hood, high and to the right. I start out, and run the trail, with it closed. Closed works fine on the trail from 2k all the way to 7k elevation, but leads to a rich condition climbing. Where we ride mostly, at 5k foot elevation, I open it 3/4 turn, and it rips, with good a/f. The valve has a "t" handle which makes it easy to count turns. In McCall at 7K I openned it an additional 1/2 turn before hitting the right mixture. As soon as I hit the trail to head down I always close it again. It'll start running real lean pretty quick as you come down or are at low throttle settings, if you don't. Small adjustments make noticeable changes in mixture. Fine tuning is a snap and I never needed to hunt down a pocket full of jets. PM me if you want a more detailed description and photos
 
I would love to see pics of the "Kachess pitot system"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I've had some pm's asking about these mods so I am bumping this thread.
 
I have recently done the Valve Metered Pitot System (sounds better than ice maker valve) I used a different mounting spot and so far it works great. I was working on an idea for a needle valve on a speedo cable connected to a knob on the dash to do the adjusting when Kachess came up with this.
To me if this is to work best I wanted to be able to adjust without opening the hood and on the go, So I put the valve in the pocket just under the right hood latch strap. very protected and you just lift the strap adjust and go. was thinking of putting up around the steering column but I did not want to bump it. ( still may move it) In this current position the hose stays short. I drilled a hole the size of the shaft, pulled the adjusting pin from the valve, and put the valve on the inside through the hole, added washers for shims for a sung fit and put the pin back in (on the outside). Had to bent the pin to be able to turn it, Also added a 6 inch piece of hose to the open end of the valve and turned it down to try to prevent icing of the open end. I am making a knob as the pin in the end of the valve is a little hard to reach while riding due to being recessed. But here to me is the best part you can adjust while riding, I just hold throttle with lefty watch the A/F gage and alittle adj and all is good. I will post a pic of the knob when I get one to work well but so far the rest works great.
Added pics of new valve knob, I made it out of a left over hyfax cut down and drilled to match the pins which I did bend more first, put it on by getting hot with a torch and pressed it on while plyable, also put a little JB weld in the holes just before I put on.
 

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Good stuff Joel, thanks. I've just started on the mods (reverse and RF kit) and so far so good!
 
Reason for Polaris Primary

The reason for the Polaris Primary is that they are stronger than the stock Yamaha primary with aggressive weights tends to crack on the sheaves. I had a couple do that on my 92 Yamaha Vmax4 then I went to the Polaris P-85 and got that dialed in with 10 series weights and the thing ripped. I am running heelclickers with a high engagement on it and if my primary clutch cracks I will go P-85. I have had good luck with that primary.
 
Kachess said:
I think there are posts on the battery relocation, but here are some of my thoughts and photos. It is a very worthwhile mod cause it's relatively cheap, easy, gets rid of weight, moves mass lower, and improves access to everything. It's where the battery belongs. Ya gotta get the right battery to fit through the enlarged left forward bulkhead hole, Yuasa YTZ10S. There are cheaper equivalents but they don't all have the same CCA's.
Click to expand...

Does the smaller battery have enough juice to start up the sled in really cold temperatures? Up north in Norway it can get down to -40 deg. F/C. I don't think I will be riding in those temperatures but you never know ;-) Just wondering how the battery operates...

Thanks. Cool mods BTW!
 
We've used them down to 0 F, and not had a problem. The Yuasa brand battery has proven a lot stonger than the cheap equivalents we have found on the internet. Interstate batteries says they use the Yuasa battery and it seems to be equivalent. We have had to replace a few light mpi batteries, but never a Yuasa, yet. Unfortunately, around $100 is the cheapest we find them now.
 
birkebeiner - where in Norway are you? Do you really ride in -40C :-)

I'm in Lakselv and I run the Yuasa XT10S battery (the same as in the R1 Motorbike) in my turbo sled with all kinds of extras installed in the sled. No problem with starting, but I don't go out riding when it's that cold.
 
Karasjok. I do not ride when it's THAT cold, but it for sure get's that cold... I have been riding in -30 deg. C once, but will not do it again ;-)
 
Hello neighbor - now I understand why you need a good battery :-) You get it pretty cold.... most winter, I've been riding in -30 as well down from Markanis to Dorvonjarga, glad I didn't have to ride any further. If you store your sled inside in where temps are a little higher starting would not be a problem with a YT10S battery, buy a Yuasa or even better drive down to Lakselv and Midt-Finnmark Motor and have them find the perfect battery for you.

Jan-Ove
rxrider
 
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