Cam Chain Tensioner Replacement (3 cylinder engine 05-07)

The tool is en route to Canada to help another member!
 
SRX Maine said:
Could you post the manual instructions again? I can't view them for some reason
Click to expand...

I made changes to the photos on the first page so they're no longer linked to photobucket if that's what you're referring to.
 
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The marks on the both gears need to be aligned and the II mark on flywheel just close. The exhaust cam will want to rotate CW toward the intake cam because it's coming off the #3 exhaust lobe so it usually needs held in place while setting the chain. With the cams aligned if the chain is off by one tooth one the crank gear you won't see the II marks in the stator cover window.
 
grizztracks said:
The marks on the both gears need to be aligned and the II mark on flywheel just close. The exhaust cam will want to rotate CW toward the intake cam because it's coming off the #3 exhaust lobe so it usually needs held in place while setting the chain. With the cams aligned if the chain is off by one tooth one the crank gear you won't see the II marks in the stator cover window.
Click to expand...

So in theory, the arrow on the exhaust gear should point directly at the line on the intake gear?
Mine looks like the pic in your photobucket
Let me ask you this. Why isn't this done at TDC of the firing stroke?
The lines and arrows appear to be in the same position, and the cam lobes are at 11 and 1
 
#3 cylinder (stator side) lobes should be at 7 and 5.

"d" shows #3 cylinder cam lobe position when setting timing.

cam timing.jpg
 
Like I said, as long as the cams align after rotating the engine several times and the II mark is visible in the window you are good. One tooth off and the II mark won't be in the window opening. The slight misalignment is due to worn guides and a stretched chain.
 
Hey Griz do I remember right the spacer tool was a 13mm deep 1/4 socket? Also how deep and wide are the cuts?
I am about to try this myself. If I lived near you I'd ask you to do it:)
Thanks
 
MEL said:
Hey Griz do I remember right the spacer tool was a 13mm deep 1/4 socket? Also how deep and wide are the cuts?
I am about to try this myself. If I lived near you I'd ask you to do it:)
Thanks
Click to expand...

13mm, 1/4" drive deep well socket works. Notch it out leaving two tabs maybe 1/4" wide and 1/4" tall.

engine spacer socket.jpg
 
Sorry about the delayed response but thanks much!!!!!
Hopefully I wont bother you when I start this mission. Just putting together my Kodiak front diff locker kit. The vector is next.
 
grizztracks said:
13mm, 1/4" drive deep well socket works. Notch it out leaving two tabs maybe 1/4" wide and 1/4" tall.

View attachment 161578
Click to expand...
Hey Grizz, Ive been trying not to bother you further with my adventure here but I have run in to a snag. Tool worked great by the way. when trying to install the new tensioner it stops abut 1/2 inch short of going all the way in. Now when I removed the old one it did snap back quite a bit but I didn't think much of that. I had the cables ties on the gears to timing wouldn't jump but when it released the tensioner I got slack in the chain which I know you take out with the exhaust cam ccw but should I try to do that and then try to install the tensioner? Have you ever had this happen?
 
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