can a bosch o2 sensor go bad in one ride?

sledfvr

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I went for the first ride with my new o2 kit and it worked great. Then I go for another ride and it works for the first couple miles and starts going all the way to lean and pegs out. it seems to work for the first 15 seconds after startup and then goes lean. I run 50/50 race and its on a bender rear mount so it is close to the turbo. could it have gotten to much heat and burned out? :o|
 
These things go bad from to much water, octane boosters, etc. Have a bad ground or something?

If you are running the Innovative A/F, I have two new sensors for sale.
 
In what position is your sensor installed? Best position is between 10 and 2 o'clock.
Are you running leaded fuels? Leaded fuels will wastly shorten the sensor life. You may be better off running the NTK sensors, they seem to be more robust. Get in touch with lakercr, he sells them.

I run the Innovate LC-1 and XD-16 with a Bosch sensor placed close to the turbo in my rear mount MCX. So far so good, no problems, no leaded fuels tho.
 
It is placed at about 11 o'clock. It seems to work as I am on and off the throttle but if I stay at one spot on the throttle it'll peg out then not read till I let completely out if it and hit it again. It is an aem kit. I had one on my other turbo and it worked great. I am running leaded race fuel 50/50, but I didn't think that'd kil it in one ride.
...will carb cleaner kill it? I had a mechanic tell me you can clean o2 sensors on cars with it. So I sprayed it off with carb cleaner after it already seemed to be acting up. Maybe that did it in?
 
Oooops, they don't like liquids at least not when hot. Why would you clean it? I can't remember reading about any need for cleaning the sensor when reading the Innovate manual.
 
Maybe I'm wrong but the way I understand it the lead in the fuel leaves a build up on the sensor and plugs it off so that it reads lean. If it is cleaned off it will not read lean anymore.

Sounds like I screwed it up if I'm wrong.
 
My first bosch lasted me about 500 miles with a mix of 110 racing and 93 pump unleaded. When it went bad I kept getting error 8 code, that the sensor was overheated. So when I replaced it I put in a heat sink.

The second one lasted me about 300 last season with 103 Vp unleaded, mixed with 93 unleaded pump gas. Only made it an additional 200 miles this year with straight 100ll av gas. That died on Friday when I was trying to get my clutching worked out. I kept getting code 4.That means either a damaged sensor cable or sensor cable not fully seated.

My first one did what yours is doing, would work for 3-5 miles after first started then quit.

Does your AEM show any kind of code? Innovative has an led that blinks out the code.

Mine is a Bender Stage 2 with the dual exhaust and the sensor in the exhaust, a couple of inches from the turbo exit.
 
The lead in the fuel goes inside the sensor probe and blocks tiny passages on the inside, I don't think it is possible to recover a sensor damaged by lead. I could be wrong tho :-)
 
Aem doesn't have error codes on it. It just goes past lean and has flat lines across the gauge. Have you tried the ntk sensor yet? How much are they?
thank guys
 
sledfvr said:
Aem doesn't have error codes on it. It just goes past lean and has flat lines across the gauge. Have you tried the ntk sensor yet? How much are they?
thank guys
I am running a aem....also 50/50 mix.....The first ride out with it it started to go lean after the first day......found that the connector plug on the sensor to the wiring harness was loose...tapped it up and its been good......
 
Where can we buy a NTK sensor and do they last longer than the Innovate sensor.
 
Something to consider:

Courtesy of MPI:

Symptoms – Snowmobile’s Wide Band O2 gauge reads lean at wide-open throttle, BUT DOES NOT ACT LEAN OR POP.

Cause – Overly Rich Condition. When unburned fuel is sent through the motor your Wide Band Gauge will interpret unburned fuel as lean. The wide band measures the amount of external O2 that must be introduced to react with the unburned HC and CO. In a NORMAL lean condition there is no excess O2, therefore external O2 must be introduced to react with the residual HC and CO, if there is an overly rich condition there is no reaction between the O2 and the HC/CO in the pipe, and the sensor assumes you are lean since it has to add heated O2 to the exhaust to get a stoichiometric reading.
 
I checked the connection and it looked good. I played with it when the engine was running and it didn't change anything, at idle I'm past 17 on the gauge. If anyone knows where to get an ntk sensor that'd be great.
 
Yea i think mine took a crap again. From my alcohol water injection .

Skydog
 
wondering where the cheapest place to get a new bosch sensor would be. Skydog I saw in an older post that you got them for like $44... sounds like a deal. hopefully it lasts longer this time.
 


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