Well I am in it now - just an update - 
The mirrors (with integrated front turn signals), rear turn signals, running lights on all 4 corners, LOUD HORN and handlebar cotrols for all are on and installed.
The 3 rims are Voxx Monza 17" x 7" with 205/25 17 extremely low profile Nitto NT 555R II Extreme street legal auto cross tires. They should look hot on the black and yellow sled. I am getting the calipers powder coated yellow to match.
Dual aluminum radiators with electric fans are in.
The mono rear ducatti swing arm and front spindle, rotors and calipers are on the way.
Time to get serious. I am starting to get a twitch in the throttle thumb. My buddies are jealous but think I am a freak.
When its 40 degs out and I crank up the hand warmers then whos nuts.
The mirrors (with integrated front turn signals), rear turn signals, running lights on all 4 corners, LOUD HORN and handlebar cotrols for all are on and installed.
The 3 rims are Voxx Monza 17" x 7" with 205/25 17 extremely low profile Nitto NT 555R II Extreme street legal auto cross tires. They should look hot on the black and yellow sled. I am getting the calipers powder coated yellow to match.
Dual aluminum radiators with electric fans are in.
The mono rear ducatti swing arm and front spindle, rotors and calipers are on the way.
Time to get serious. I am starting to get a twitch in the throttle thumb. My buddies are jealous but think I am a freak.
When its 40 degs out and I crank up the hand warmers then whos nuts.
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kinger
VIP Member
Man I would love to make a conversion kit for my sled.
I still think $3000 for the kit is a little steep, be nice if a DIY could scrap up the parts for $1500 and do it themelves.
Using a rigid rear suspension would save money not sure how bad it would be to ride though.
The radiator location and swapping is the worst part in the conversion between summer to winter. Wish I knew how well the factory apex radiator kept up in summer temps, probably not good at all since the sled will still throw a hot light in winter time with very poor snow.
I think I could dream up everything except the front spindles what are you using for that?
I still think $3000 for the kit is a little steep, be nice if a DIY could scrap up the parts for $1500 and do it themelves.
Using a rigid rear suspension would save money not sure how bad it would be to ride though.
The radiator location and swapping is the worst part in the conversion between summer to winter. Wish I knew how well the factory apex radiator kept up in summer temps, probably not good at all since the sled will still throw a hot light in winter time with very poor snow.
I think I could dream up everything except the front spindles what are you using for that?
The little rad is not enough for temps over 45 deg. As far as the rear the expense is not in making it move there are a ton of swing arms on ebay from $150 to $300 complete with shock, rotor, caliper and sprocket. I am shooting for 6" of travel with several shock arm positions to dial in the ride setting. The main issue is the additude of the sled depending on the size of the rear tire to get 6" of clearance the sled may have to raise about 3" in the rear to clear bump stops and have the travel.
Oh yeah if you guys did not have all the blowers and junk in the front engine compartment there is plenty of room for an R-1 motorcycle radiator. 
And as for the pricing I was talking if someone wanted it built for them. It really depends on what tire and rim package and how far you want to go with lighting and all of the other stuff like front brakes, spicles and other misc. Here in Minnesota the law only requires a brake on 1 wheel which the existing rotor on the jack shaft would qualify. I want this thing to scream and then stop though so I am using the rotor and caliper on the rear swing arm and 11" chevy rotors up front because that is where all the weight transfer is. These were cheaper than using upright spindles and rotors from a formula ford which is just slightly heavier but would have cost almost $400 more.
I think I could put a bare bones kit together for a cost of under $1500 easy.
And as for the pricing I was talking if someone wanted it built for them. It really depends on what tire and rim package and how far you want to go with lighting and all of the other stuff like front brakes, spicles and other misc. Here in Minnesota the law only requires a brake on 1 wheel which the existing rotor on the jack shaft would qualify. I want this thing to scream and then stop though so I am using the rotor and caliper on the rear swing arm and 11" chevy rotors up front because that is where all the weight transfer is. These were cheaper than using upright spindles and rotors from a formula ford which is just slightly heavier but would have cost almost $400 more.
I think I could put a bare bones kit together for a cost of under $1500 easy.
kinger
VIP Member
Yeah I definitly want massive front brakes on mine. My supercharged 250hp engine would do 0-60 in less then 2.5 seconds, probably top out around 150+ mph and I need to be able to stop!
If you can help me put together a parts list I will try and do the same thing, then we can meet up this summer on our sleds LOL
If you can help me put together a parts list I will try and do the same thing, then we can meet up this summer on our sleds LOL
Sounds awesome!!!!! I should have most of my front end parts here today and tommorrow I will start assembly and update you on progress
kinger
VIP Member
I assume it will need different secondary clutching? No jetting on my apex needed I dont think anything else to make the sled run good right?
Ha ha on the junk in my nose comment all that stuff is staying there BOOST rules my friend LOL
Are you going to disconnect the heat exchangers? I was thinking a rad out the back and disconnecting the crossver tube/exchanger and bolting a rad behind the wheel might be easy for mounting, still look stupid but possibly easier to swap every season.
Ha ha on the junk in my nose comment all that stuff is staying there BOOST rules my friend LOL
Are you going to disconnect the heat exchangers? I was thinking a rad out the back and disconnecting the crossver tube/exchanger and bolting a rad behind the wheel might be easy for mounting, still look stupid but possibly easier to swap every season.
You can unhook the excangers if you want it just gives more surface area. And there is plenty of room in the tunnel for the rad. I have not not obviously run mine yet but I am hoping that if I get the gearing correct I will only have to adjust primary weights. I am running heel clicker II so adding weight is quick and simple.
kinger
VIP Member
Yeah me to I am running super tips, with lots of weight left to add if need be.
Cool keep us updated looking forward to see you out screaming on this thing!
Cool keep us updated looking forward to see you out screaming on this thing!
kinger
VIP Member
LOl keep it simple first and let me know how it goes!
I'm worried about the wheel center and spindle alignment that thing could get scary at high speeds.
I looked at ATV spindles and brake set up, would be easy to adapt and they are cheap on line. Not enough brake though.
I'm worried about the wheel center and spindle alignment that thing could get scary at high speeds.
I looked at ATV spindles and brake set up, would be easy to adapt and they are cheap on line. Not enough brake though.
Im not worried there is going to be a mount brack that adapts the spindle to the A arms that will push the wheels wide enough to clear the body work in a turn.
The real setup questions are camber and caster angles and I have a few notes from the racing days to get me close. I am using hiem joints at the pick up points so adjusting will be easy.
I am more worried about the plastic bushings failing in all the pivot points due to the extra strain. I was going to upgrade to the brass ones any way. I am going to get the front together first with mock ups and test drive with the track on in the grass then work on the rear.
The real setup questions are camber and caster angles and I have a few notes from the racing days to get me close. I am using hiem joints at the pick up points so adjusting will be easy.
I am more worried about the plastic bushings failing in all the pivot points due to the extra strain. I was going to upgrade to the brass ones any way. I am going to get the front together first with mock ups and test drive with the track on in the grass then work on the rear.
langow
Expert
Any progress updates on this? I think it's a really cool project and would love to be able to run around the streets in the summer time on my Apex.
Slow but sure rads are in working on front suspension now
kinger
VIP Member
You got that baby rolling yet?
