Can you stud an Ice Ripper track??

[Mighty]

I just picked up a 40th anniversary LTX GT that has an ice ripper track. The lugs are pretty flexable and I wonder how effective this track really is. Has Anybody added studs to one of these?

 

[Budweiser]

When I asked Tracks USA they told me you could. I haven't because I'm happy with the track.

I've also heard that you cant. Don't know why you couldn't but thats what I've heard.

 

[wallisan]

studs

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=

Here's a link to some pics of an Ice Ripper with 180 double-backed studs. It lasted less than 500 miles before the side tore out of it. I wouldn't waste the time and money.

It wasn't my sled by the way, but I thought it would be interesting to see what happened down the road.

 

[onlyblue]

I have an ice ripper on my attak, and i too am very happy with the performance of it. It is NOT an ice draggin track, but does very well on the trails... great braking on icy corners, and if you want u can still slide her around a little. Adding studs to it would defeat the purpose.... plus i think it would take away from the effectiveness of the rippers studs... (pushing them away from the ice)

 

[Mighty]

Thanks for the input guys. I guess I'll give it a try before doing anything.

 

[yamadog1]

track

unless you change, you will sell sled before you ride it.

 

[yamadoo]

Mighty welcome back

My two cents is that whenever a track comes apart in 500 miles -happened to me twice - I probably hit something and started this process. At the time I was sure I didn't but in retrospect well maybe?

I had two yokohamas just come apart and I was sure they were junk then heard others I ride with and trust brag about the miles on their Yokohama tracks, then same with the Rip saw that I love and studded and others think it will not get you across the streat without failure.

So I think if the track has the same constrution as the rip and hack saw tracks you should be able to stud for more traction safely. Call tracks USA or Camoplast and they will tell you for sure.

my two cents

Welcome back and I would have bought that sled at that price too
Yamadoo

 

[SledFreak]

Yes, Mighty, put a cobra track on it, so I can buy off you for cheap? LOL Did you come to the Sault/Drummond to get it?

 

[guardrail]

Look closely at your track. There's a warning not to stud it, right on the track.

 

[POB88]

Camoplast told me not to do it. The lugs are more durable to take the studs. The center of the track is made with less cords to keep it light.

 

[Mighty]

Yes, Mighty, put a cobra track on it, so I can buy off you for cheap? LOL Did you come to the Sault/Drummond to get it?

I met him at Jay's in Gaylord.

 

[Mighty]

Look closely at your track. There's a warning not to stud it, right on the track.

Wow.....I guess that answers my question. Thanks.

 

[Grunter]

I had an ice ripper - it couldn't even hold me straight on ice at max speed!
It's a piece of garbage! I had to stud it because I found it almost just as dangerous as no studs(1% better). Of a standing start it was useless, on top end it was useless - so why buy it? I had lots of regret...

After studding it was much better - although heavier than even a ripsaw..
It lasted about 1200 miles - then started tossing and puking lugs on the side(no studs there - only 144 in the center)

I wouldn't buy another...

I used the 14" hacksaw phazer track with 144 studs(1.375") down the center - gained 5mph, 25% better fuel economy and it roosted me up on a 45 degree at take off with tranfer set at "min".

Lotsa take off!! Impeccable midrange and even better top end and a 20-25% better range on fuel. I'll be curious to see how long she lives - but she's on her way to beating the ice ripper and ripsaw on all counts!

For me there's nothing better - this is the track to beat!(32lbs - fully cleated!)

 

[Mighty]

20-25% better range on fuel.

You sure about that?