longshot
Extreme
Guys- finished today installing Freddie's filters main jets etc. also put in Simons stage 3 kit. Got out in the yard and machine started missing like hell. Brought it back in and re-checked the little 0-rings under the plastic caps, checked for pinched bellows, slides were under vacuum when moving them manually. All seemed ok on the recheck. Talked to Freddie and he seemed to think maybe the tors was screwed up so I then called dealer for his input. Dealer said if the tors was not working right could not get rpm above 3000. So, not the tors. Did notice antifreeze leaking out aluminum tube between #3 and #4 carb antifreeze feed line. Dealer said most likely the popping problem was due to dirty pilot jets - they have brought a number in this year for what they termed "CARB CLEANING'. The antifreeze problem is a warrantee fix but they consider the dirty pilots a non warrantee. When I told them the machine was stored with stabil they said that was not good enough, you have to drain the bowls at the end of the season! Apparently this is a conclusion they just arrived at after getting the popping rx1's in from last season's storage. I'll tell you, you have to change the rear suspension to get the sled to ride decent, have to change the sway bar and links to stop the tipping, change the clutching to get the performance we should have gotten from the factory and then change the carburation to even out the dips in the torque curves. Now they say drain the bowls. I did that last year on one of my other sleds and when I restarted it, one of the floats was stuck on the rider post. I don't agree with draining the bowls unless you pull the carbs and dissassemble them for long term storage and you should not have to do this for a 6 month storage time. Bottom line is this is the kind of backup I got from Polaris when I bought the 93 Storm. I did not expect this kind of bullshit from Yamaha and even though I like the motor in this sled I will not do business with these people again. This is not a jab at Ecp or Cpr, both of these guys were great - I just am so pissed at the Yamaha people for not only not providing some sort of updates on the stuff we did the r&d on and paid dearly for, but also for not standing behind this pilot jet deal which apparently is fairly common from what I am hearing. Tx for listening and I hope this post reaches someone in the Yamaha organization.
kmer
Expert
longshot said:
Hey there, Longshot.
....if the TORS cable isn't properly seated (check your cables - both ends) it could still rev over 3000rpm. It happened to mine this way. I was still able to drive around but popped like crazy. Odds are 90% chance its TORS. This happened after we were monkeying with the carb jets.... the cables weren't properly seated. It's an easy thing to set off.
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
yeah kelly i rember when john told me about that and told me how he fix your prob
john comes up with good ideas
right on
i need to call john tonight
john comes up with good ideas
right on
i need to call john tonight
kmer
Expert
SrXxTrEeM said:
Yeah marc i remember when john took my carbs off and put them back on and caused the problem in the first place :roll:
Sounds like you are intending to stir things up by 'pushing some buttons' on this end...i don't want any part of it... my suggestion would be to focus on the thread topic and see if you can come up with some helpful advice.
Peace.
RX1 Yooper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
longshot,
I forget what the owner's manual says about draining the fuel. If it says to drain, you don't have an argument. I agree with you though, and don't drain mine. Lately, I've been adding some oil to the gas, and running it before storage. I've seen rust in drained float bowls.
I forget what the owner's manual says about draining the fuel. If it says to drain, you don't have an argument. I agree with you though, and don't drain mine. Lately, I've been adding some oil to the gas, and running it before storage. I've seen rust in drained float bowls.
Mighty
TY 4 Stroke God
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RX1 Yooper said:
That's got to be from a gas can or you pumped in dirty gas from the gas station. There's nothing in your fuel system that can rust.
RX1 Yooper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
mighty,
I'm inclined to agree with you, but what material is the float pin, brackets on float, drain plug, and bowl screws made from?
I'm inclined to agree with you, but what material is the float pin, brackets on float, drain plug, and bowl screws made from?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Stainless. You cannot put regular rustable steel into anything with gas and expect it not to rust. Gas is like saltwater times 1000 for corrosion.
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
1st of all clean your carbs more like 2 time a month, i have never had that prob with carbs but i do clean them all the time and look at the inside all the time i ajust my carbs ever 2nd weekend only takes a few mins and well worth the tunning . the more you do it the better it gets and faster..
why not ... you spend 15grand a sled might as well take care of it ..
but im a racer so i do tune and tweek more then average joe..
why not ... you spend 15grand a sled might as well take care of it ..
but im a racer so i do tune and tweek more then average joe..
SrXxTrEeM you say clean and adjust your carbs every other week--exacty what is it you recommend cleaning and adjusting. Thanks.
recinc
Newbie
longshot
Dont take this to any offense but the sled has been sitting for six months, and this is not a problem with your sled but rather a problem with your fuel your putting in your sled. One reason why the rx1 may be more suseptable to this problem is because of the size of the holes in the pilot and other venturies in the carbs. Ive seen carbs get plugged after 2 weeks but Ive also seen them never have the problem. There is no 100% guarentee that they wont get plugged. 1st fuel breaks down after which you have the problem of the debris getting into the pilot if your lucky. If your not it could get in the mains and make the engine develop more heat in the combustion chamber. This can cause more serious damage. 2nd fuel stablizers are a thing of the past they were developed in a time where fuel is much different than it is today. 3rd fuel was made to burn not sit in your sleds for months on end. This is not Yamaha's fault its not yours either but the problem will not go away just by not doing business with one company. Here are some suggestions. !st clean Your carbs 2nd when you put the sled away drain the fuel system. This can cause certain parts to condensate and form rust. 3rd mix about a half gallon of fresh fuel with a 25-1 mix ratio of can I say it ? :? That stinky 2 stroke oil. Oil will not break down and will help prevent some of this corrosion. Let the engine run long eough to have a chance for the carb bowls to fill and shut your machine off. After all that when you get the machine out for the winter fill the sled with one tank of premium or high octane fuel this will help clean the system. Remember this is not 100% but usually helps. I guess there are alot of guys reading this post thinking why dont I have this problem. Time is the answer. There are so many factors. ltemp of storage, where your from, some states use ethenol fuel some do not. Also fuel is only made with a enough shelf life to get it in your car and burn it. Keep your fuel in Airtight sealed container. I will give you the same answer Yamaha would ,Fuel beaking down in your machine because it has been stored is not a defect of the machine if you want 100% chance of this not happening to you then Clean your Carbs every Fall before you ride and prey because there is no 100% but if you clean them it may give a better piece of mind. just my 2 cents.
Dont take this to any offense but the sled has been sitting for six months, and this is not a problem with your sled but rather a problem with your fuel your putting in your sled. One reason why the rx1 may be more suseptable to this problem is because of the size of the holes in the pilot and other venturies in the carbs. Ive seen carbs get plugged after 2 weeks but Ive also seen them never have the problem. There is no 100% guarentee that they wont get plugged. 1st fuel breaks down after which you have the problem of the debris getting into the pilot if your lucky. If your not it could get in the mains and make the engine develop more heat in the combustion chamber. This can cause more serious damage. 2nd fuel stablizers are a thing of the past they were developed in a time where fuel is much different than it is today. 3rd fuel was made to burn not sit in your sleds for months on end. This is not Yamaha's fault its not yours either but the problem will not go away just by not doing business with one company. Here are some suggestions. !st clean Your carbs 2nd when you put the sled away drain the fuel system. This can cause certain parts to condensate and form rust. 3rd mix about a half gallon of fresh fuel with a 25-1 mix ratio of can I say it ? :? That stinky 2 stroke oil. Oil will not break down and will help prevent some of this corrosion. Let the engine run long eough to have a chance for the carb bowls to fill and shut your machine off. After all that when you get the machine out for the winter fill the sled with one tank of premium or high octane fuel this will help clean the system. Remember this is not 100% but usually helps. I guess there are alot of guys reading this post thinking why dont I have this problem. Time is the answer. There are so many factors. ltemp of storage, where your from, some states use ethenol fuel some do not. Also fuel is only made with a enough shelf life to get it in your car and burn it. Keep your fuel in Airtight sealed container. I will give you the same answer Yamaha would ,Fuel beaking down in your machine because it has been stored is not a defect of the machine if you want 100% chance of this not happening to you then Clean your Carbs every Fall before you ride and prey because there is no 100% but if you clean them it may give a better piece of mind. just my 2 cents.
ExTrEeMF7
Expert
wildbill said:
flote make shure there ok and clean the bowls and jets and stuff liek that
just a good habit to get into for the time it takes why not
only dose it good
Buckeye
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Drain the carbs
Longshot, I don't agree with you. You should ale=ways drian the carbs of a snowmobile before storage. Infact you should drain the whole fuel system at the end of the season and start with fresh fuel each year. It saves alot of headaches later.
Longshot, I don't agree with you. You should ale=ways drian the carbs of a snowmobile before storage. Infact you should drain the whole fuel system at the end of the season and start with fresh fuel each year. It saves alot of headaches later.
First ride this year,GP-1 exhaust sounds great but:when punching the throttle from standing still it spits and gurgles like a 2-stroke with way too big jets.
If its the TORS,how to check them?If its the pilotjets , do I have to take apart every carb or could I use a carbcleaning additive in the fuel?
No problems when increasing rpms in one seconds steps between every 1000 rpms 5-6-7-8-9-10000rpms.
Also no misfire when revving on a jackstand.
:?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:
If its the TORS,how to check them?If its the pilotjets , do I have to take apart every carb or could I use a carbcleaning additive in the fuel?
No problems when increasing rpms in one seconds steps between every 1000 rpms 5-6-7-8-9-10000rpms.
Also no misfire when revving on a jackstand.
:?: :?: :?: :?: :?: :?:
Looked in service manual page 251 about TORS.
Are the pictures mixed up or am I totaly lost?
Pic A:throttleswitch is off 2-b
Pic B --------"------ is off 2-b ,Manual says ON ?!
Pic C --------"------ is on 2-a ,manual says OFF?!
BTW,thanks for the servicemanual,actually realy easy to clean the pilots!
Will do it tomorrow.
Are the pictures mixed up or am I totaly lost?
Pic A:throttleswitch is off 2-b
Pic B --------"------ is off 2-b ,Manual says ON ?!
Pic C --------"------ is on 2-a ,manual says OFF?!
BTW,thanks for the servicemanual,actually realy easy to clean the pilots!
Will do it tomorrow.
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