Seaway
Veteran
I just bought a 2005 Yamaha Warrior. It's studded. I'm not sure how many studs there are, but it's a lot. Anyway, I am going to order some new hyfax and runners. I am thinking about getting a set of Woody's Doolys. I can't decide if I should get 6" or 8". I haven't ridden a 4 stroke before so I don't know what to expect. I would like to cure the darting issue I keep hearing about. I mostly trail ride. I ride aggressively sometimes, but most of the time I will ride at a medium pace.
DV8
VIP Member
Everyone has there ideas about works best for them. With your studs I would run 6 in carbides. I dont run studs and I run the 4 in with no problems. Alot depends on your suspension setup also, ski pressure, ski'd shimmed? ect.
thrasher
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
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I would go with 8" for single runners for sure, the 136" track needs all the help it can to turn, especially when studded. With duel runners, you would probably be good with the 6" ones, but I would go with the 8" ones IMO.
Seaway
Veteran
I just ordered a set of Woodys 6" Doolys and new slides. Hopefully they work ok.
Honk
TY 4 Stroke Master
Those duellies will work fine. Since you just got this sled, make sure to adjust the set-in, its the most important part of all the adjustments. All depends how you set it up as to its ride. The yammy has alot of them, but once ya find the sweet stop you rock! Very little front shock pressure. What cha running for shock underneth??
Seaway
Veteran
It has the stock suspension. There aren't any mods to the sled other than the studs.
RxThunder
Expert
The biggest improvement to curing darting on both of my Rx1's was to back off of th preload on the front springs and shim the skies. Both of them handle 10 times better.
pizzagod
Veteran
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2011
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- 26
can someoone post a picture of a "Shimmed ski" please
Seaway
Veteran
Here's the instructions and pictures of a shimmed ski - http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... r_Shim.htmpizzagod said:
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
A couple of things here.
1.) I believe the term for alignment is "toe in or toe out." I run slightly toed out. Seems like 1/4" works fine.
2.) Ski shimming is not needed when you run doolies. I have tried several setups of single and dual carbides, with and w/o shimming. The 6" doolies work the best on our sled. I have a Ice Tech Track and 6" doolies. 4" doolies do not work well, once they wear down a bit. But they will work if you have no studs. 8" is just too darned much carbide. The steering is just too touchy. Doolies cure darting. Period! They also re-arch your skis so the sled returns back to that "one finger to turn" state you had when the sled was new.
3.) The front shock on the rear suspension typically only needs enough tension on it to hold the spring support in place. Much more and it will start to negatively impact your stability. A lot more and the sled will teeter-totter. One needs to get enough support to hold up one's weight but not enough to teeter-totter. Once I have that front shock set, then I use the ski springs to get the right amount of bite to fit my style. You may want to set the skis on a couple scales when you start adjusting them and support the rear suspension up with a 2x4 in the center of the track. You would be surprised at what a small adjustment will change regarding pressure on the ski. The pressure should be fairly even on each ski. It is hard to get equal pressure on the ground. But it can be done. Most folks don't bother with this. But doing it once at least gives you an appreciation of small adjustments.
1.) I believe the term for alignment is "toe in or toe out." I run slightly toed out. Seems like 1/4" works fine.
2.) Ski shimming is not needed when you run doolies. I have tried several setups of single and dual carbides, with and w/o shimming. The 6" doolies work the best on our sled. I have a Ice Tech Track and 6" doolies. 4" doolies do not work well, once they wear down a bit. But they will work if you have no studs. 8" is just too darned much carbide. The steering is just too touchy. Doolies cure darting. Period! They also re-arch your skis so the sled returns back to that "one finger to turn" state you had when the sled was new.
3.) The front shock on the rear suspension typically only needs enough tension on it to hold the spring support in place. Much more and it will start to negatively impact your stability. A lot more and the sled will teeter-totter. One needs to get enough support to hold up one's weight but not enough to teeter-totter. Once I have that front shock set, then I use the ski springs to get the right amount of bite to fit my style. You may want to set the skis on a couple scales when you start adjusting them and support the rear suspension up with a 2x4 in the center of the track. You would be surprised at what a small adjustment will change regarding pressure on the ski. The pressure should be fairly even on each ski. It is hard to get equal pressure on the ground. But it can be done. Most folks don't bother with this. But doing it once at least gives you an appreciation of small adjustments.
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