Chain Tension?

[sk-rx1]

With so much confusion over how far to back off the adjustment screw has anyone tried setting the tension by using the back and forth free pay in the secondary clutch. I know it does not work with a Yamaha reverse mechanism but with the AC system it seems like it would work fine. If so how much pay should here be?

 

[YamahaTim]

With so much confusion over how far to back off the adjustment screw has anyone tried setting the tension by using the back and forth free pay in the secondary clutch. I know it does not work with a Yamaha reverse mechanism but with the AC system it seems like it would work fine. If so how much pay should here be?

Seems like we are playing with fire, adjusting the chain. I have 4000 miles on my Viper and I finger tighten and back off one full turn. So far it's been great, no clunking sound with quick stop and go or slow down and hit it. Seems good to me.

 

[shagman]

With so much confusion over how far to back off the adjustment screw has anyone tried setting the tension by using the back and forth free pay in the secondary clutch. I know it does not work with a Yamaha reverse mechanism but with the AC system it seems like it would work fine. If so how much pay should here be?

Seems like we are playing with fire, adjusting the chain. I have 4000 miles on my Viper and I finger tighten and back off one full turn. So far it's been great, no clunking sound with quick stop and go or slow down and hit it. Seems good to me.

finger tight 3/4 turn 3100 mile all ok so far.

 

[09nytro]

Finger tight then back off 1 1/2 turns , no problems at all !

 

[MrSled]

I did some research and the tensioner itself is spring loaded... you could actually run it without the bolt completely. The best way would be to follow the manual and go finger tight and back off 1 1/2 turns ... the bolt is just there to prevent chain slap against the spring adjuster...if you go any tighter it will pull on the chain tighter and put forces on that wabble bearing that would most likely cause it to fail.

Ill try and post pics soon as I can.... to show my findings.

 

[sk-rx1]

Thanks for the comments. I have been running mine about 1 turn out since my initial setting of 1/4 turn. All is fine. I was thinking that if we had a back and for the number for the secondary we could check tension without removing the exhaust, at least for us people with stock mufflers. Years ago I had a Ski Doo that specified the free movement as the spec. All is fine as is I guess. You would have to be careful not to overcome the spring or you would get a false reading.

 

[stingray719]

I did some research and the tensioner itself is spring loaded... you could actually run it without the bolt completely. The best way would be to follow the manual and go finger tight and back off 1 1/2 turns ... the bolt is just there to prevent chain slap against the spring adjuster...if you go any tighter it will pull on the chain tighter and put forces on that wabble bearing that would most likely cause it to fail.

Ill try and post pics soon as I can.... to show my findings.

Correct, I posted a few times that the adjuster is spring loaded and some dealers are finger tightening past the spring before backing the adjuster bolt out. Seems everybodys idea of "finger tight" is not the same. When I changed the track I adjusted mine with the cover off so I could watch the free play because I was curious. Only critical thing is NOT have it on the tight side. Tight chains in anything break bearings and chaincases.

Seems hard sometimes to get needed info out to the group (like mr sleds comment above) when so much garbage is bantered about. Too bad there is not a reputation button so you can ding guys when they post bad info.

 

[canadianhunter]

Stingray
In other words finger tight up to the spring ( which is not very tight ) and then back 1 1/2 turns ? This seems right to me.
The reason I ask is after the dealer over tightened it seems easier to tighten past the start of spring tension, but I can feel it.

 

[stingray719]

Stingray
In other words finger tight up to the spring ( which is not very tight ) and then back 1 1/2 turns ? This seems right to me.
The reason I ask is after the dealer over tightened it seems easier to tighten past the start of spring tension, but I can feel it.

You are describing is how mine is set. (DISCLAIMER) - Because everybodys idea of finger tight is diferent, I hesitate to suggest a setting if you are not chaincase savvy.

I am concerned that the spring tension has changed, that usually only changes when a spring gets very hot. If that spring tension was different before the dealer overtightened it I would certainly replace that tensioner spring and inspect the chaincase internals.

 

[canadianhunter]

Thanks Stingray
After dealer setting I only ran it on the stand and it whined so I checked and reset same as you. Was just confirming that I read you right I will keep a check on it.

 

[Nytro40th]

At the 500 mile mark I hand tightened mine than backed it a turn and a half and no issues.

 

[MrSled]

I got confirmation that if your manual says finger tight and quarter turn out it is wrong. It should be finger tight and a turn and a half out. I am not going to say anymore than that. If you think the spring tension has changed due to the dealer over tightening it then change it but that's now how it is designed. I think in order to really affect the spring tension you would have to wind that thing up like a clock. But what the hell do I know...LOL

 

[TestMaster]

When is Yamaha going to change the owners manual?

Why is no service manual available available yet?

 

[MrSled]

When is Yamaha going to change the owners manual?

Why is no service manual available available yet?

Good question.