Change oil or not to change oil???

[spddmon]

its not that the oil is breaking down its the contaminants and how they react with moisture during storage one of the byproducts of combustion is sulpher and soot that gets suspended in the oil sitting over a period of time with condensation in the eng moisture in the oil mixed with the soot and sulpher and other b y products of combustion creates an acid which in extended storage will wreck bearings ive sceen manny when building engnes so changing oil before storage is a must

 

[YAMAMISSILE]

Great info! This is why I love this site. There is so much to learn and it keeps me sane untill we get snow and I can ride. From now on, I will be changing my oil at the end of the season.

 

[Verminator]

Thank you lazybastard...I appreciate your explanation and common sense. I can't run my machine over the summer like I used too when i was trailering. I will change my oil at the end of this season and plug up the air entrances to the engine. Heading up to old forge tomorrow and really looking fwd to riding I will be checking the dipstick and if it looks as clean as it did at the end of the season I am lubimg up everything on the chassis and getting things moving.

 

[Apex2006]

I ran into an Apex rider on the trails (Bar) this week where this subject came up and found out he was only draining the oil from the motor, but not draining the oil tank! He was new to Yamaha, previous ZRT guy and said he would never go back. Always change oil with filter - Mobil-1 Synthetic. I treat it like my car.

PS. Informed him to use TY Forum as it is the best knowledgebase forum in the industry!

 

[rock doc]

Personally I think it is all overkill...but I do it anyway to protect my investment. Lubricants have come a long way and are chemically buffered against big swings in pH. The moisture burns off in a few minutes after you start it and besides you can suck a lot more water in on the fuel and air side of the equation. We've all seen 2 smokes blow up cause of this. Pobably the single most important thing to do is LET YOUR MACHINE WARM UP before you juice it.

Can anyone honestly say they've seen evidence of this damage in a motor? I've taken a few street bike motors apart and the last thing I've ever worried about is damage from "old oil". They are clean, clean, clean these days esp. if you use syn or semi.

Not directly related to this thread, but I thought it would be of interest to some of you:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
Just rem there are no Yami, Doo, Cat or Polaris refineries that I am aware of, so ask youself what you are really purchasing when you buy these brands.

 

[Apex2006]

Personally I think it is all overkill...but I do it anyway to protect my investment. Lubricants have come a long way and are chemically buffered against big swings in pH. The moisture burns off in a few minutes after you start it and besides you can suck a lot more water in on the fuel and air side of the equation. We've all seen 2 smokes blow up cause of this. Pobably the single most important thing to do is LET YOUR MACHINE WARM UP before you juice it.

Can anyone honestly say they've seen evidence of this damage in a motor? I've taken a few street bike motors apart and the last thing I've ever worried about is damage from "old oil". They are clean, clean, clean these days esp. if you use syn or semi.

Not directly related to this thread, but I thought it would be of interest to some of you:

Great article RocK Doc! Supports my decision to use Mobil 1 Synthetic in my Apex motor. Certainly may not matter as long as Oil changes are performed annually, but I choose to run the best viscosity retention. Thanks!

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
Just rem there are no Yami, Doo, Cat or Polaris refineries that I am aware of, so ask youself what you are really purchasing when you buy these brands.