Changing my track..tips??

yamahahaapex

TY 4 Stroke Master
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Taking my ripsaw off my 2011 apex 144". Any tips or tricks people are using to save some time or head scratching? Never done this before so obviously doing a lot of research before this all happens. I did change a track over on a 96 polaris but I know in my head this will be a lot different/harder
 
Searching here is the way to do this. Also I would print out the parts list for the chain case and drive. It will be easier to see ahead and keep track of parts as they come off.
Someone told me there is one bolt that is tricky to get at and you may have to go to craftsman etc to get a combo or wrench to access it.
 
Depending on your mileage, consider changing all bearings while your at it, jackshaft clutch side bearing especially is only possible with chaincase off. Also don't forget to repalce the "O" rings on drive & jack shafts that reside under bearing seals, it will leak if you don't! Good Luck!
 
Yeah it is a pain in the arse. I'm finding it hard to get the suspension back in. I have heard in places where you compress the suspension so it is not as tight on the track when you go to align it with the bolt holes. What do you do if you have an expert x suspension with 2 shocks? Otherwise the chain case is super easy if you keep track of the bolt locations. Below is the link I used for my chain case removal, luckily I was putting on reverse and only had to do half of the removal steps. Tell you what, the reverse linkage is a pain. I would add to put on the reverse linkage bolt to the case cover on first before you bolt the case on to the sled.

For the chain case w/reverse:
http://www.gearchange.8k.com/photo.html
 
I unscrew the tensioners right to the end, loosen the limiters straps, tilt the machine on it's side slide the suspension in, install two bolts, flip the other side, install two other bolts. Then put machine on the stand and put a 4x4 under the track to compress front of suspension...re-attach strap to same bolt hole location..take the 4x4 away...tighten the track, spin and align..you're done...about 30-40 minutes taking my time...
 
If you can take a laptop out to your garage or print off a blowup of the parts inside the gear case to help you when you are putting it back together, there are a few spacers/shims that vary in thickness you'll want to put back in the right spot. The suspension goes in very quick and easy when you unhook one end of the transfer rod, and once it's in the rod hooks up pretty easily. Had mine back under the sled in about 10 minutes.
 
ITHAPPENS said:
Depending on your mileage, consider changing all bearings while your at it, jackshaft clutch side bearing especially is only possible with chaincase off. Also don't forget to repalce the "O" rings on drive & jack shafts that reside under bearing seals, it will leak if you don't! Good Luck!

X2 on the bearings, it's cheap insurance if you have it apart. Replace the drive axle seal while you're at it. If you're not sure how deep to drive the oil seal , drive it in a little bit at a time then fit the drive axle into the chaincase on the work bench (push shaft in until it stops against the bearing). This will give you a first hand view. Just make sure the lips of the seal make good contact with the collar on the shaft (you'll be able to see where the old seal made contact). Also, tighten the set screws on the left drive axle bearing last after everything else is assembled and tight.

In addition to parts diagrams, take lots of pictures with your phone as you disassemble. Take your time putting it back together and make sure you get the reverse shift fork in the slot correctly.
 
the washers and such on the drive axle can get a little confusing when you go to reinstall to prevent this keep them in the same order they came off and zip tie them together so you wont have to guess when you go to reinstall.
 
kingtut said:
Yeah it is a pain in the arse. I'm finding it hard to get the suspension back in. I have heard in places where you compress the suspension so it is not as tight on the track when you go to align it with the bolt holes. What do you do if you have an expert x suspension with 2 shocks? Otherwise the chain case is super easy if you keep track of the bolt locations. Below is the link I used for my chain case removal, luckily I was putting on reverse and only had to do half of the removal steps. Tell you what, the reverse linkage is a pain. I would add to put on the reverse linkage bolt to the case cover on first before you bolt the case on to the sled.

For the chain case w/reverse:
http://www.gearchange.8k.com/photo.html

The proactive CK skid is much easier to re-install if you relieve the torsion springs.
 
number1kyster said:
kingtut said:
Yeah it is a pain in the arse. I'm finding it hard to get the suspension back in. I have heard in places where you compress the suspension so it is not as tight on the track when you go to align it with the bolt holes. What do you do if you have an expert x suspension with 2 shocks? Otherwise the chain case is super easy if you keep track of the bolt locations. Below is the link I used for my chain case removal, luckily I was putting on reverse and only had to do half of the removal steps. Tell you what, the reverse linkage is a pain. I would add to put on the reverse linkage bolt to the case cover on first before you bolt the case on to the sled.

For the chain case w/reverse:
http://www.gearchange.8k.com/photo.html

The proactive CK skid is much easier to re-install if you relieve the torsion springs.

I have the AD bovin expert X skid. Figured out that having the rear wheels as far as you can go helps out a ton. Just to note to the OP, do not forget to do this or it will be a sad day.
 
just finished it Saturday night and had some last minute linkage adjustments for reverse to do this morning. Everything is working perfect and aside from making sure the fork is in the right place it wasn't too too bad. Thanks for the help!
 


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