clutching question for trail to deep

[rxwhopper]

i have my clutching setup for the cobra track i had in last year. This year i changed out to a backcountry and on the trail my setup worked ok so i just left it alone. Now we have alot of snow but my clutching wont pull across the field where its deep. pulls good and then drops down rpm to 9000 rpm and then try to go back up when it has time to backshift but i think that is where its slipping belt also. Has been a year since i have been into the primary but the rear had a whit spring at 70 and a 53-46 helix. the primary is g-forces setup with supertips, i have them loaded pretty heavy in fact as heavy as i can in the inner and middle and the tip is not to much there if any if i remeber right. Also g-force mills tip weight off the weight and again i dont remeber how much. it has a stock yamaha primary in it so i will have to go check and repst. Sleds a attak setup with a 144 backsountry and a mpi running 7 pounds. But its carrieing about 300 pounds on its back with me on it. To sum this up i am looking for clutching that would be ok in all conditions. I have a shockwave straight rate helix i could try also. With kids in hackey and house reno,s clutching time is down and i just want to ride. But 2 belts in the deep and now warm temps of riding is not fun. thanks for any comments

 

[JIM]

wind that secondary more. or get a taller stiffer spring that has more side pressure. the cat red white would be a step up if you run the yam white now, the cat red white works good and gives more side pressure.

 

[rxwhopper]

i have a i think is a cat yellow that i got from supertorquer in a kit. is that a good one? how does a guy figure out the wind on them because the tangs are differnt locations?

 

[Turk]

Lyle
try it at 0 & 3.

 

[JIM]

You can feel the difference when you are putting it together and putting on the belt. make baby steps and dont be afraid to try stiffer settings. It takes 2 guys to get my secondary together with a cat green. So take note on how it feels as you take the nuts off and feel the twist.

 

[mbarryracing]

If it runs the right RPM on the trail, isn't more spring tension going to cause an over-rev when NOT in the powder? Your gonna need more tip weight.

I was thinking maybe need less helix angle so it doesn't over-shift when spinning in the deep powder and drag the engine RPM down until it backshifts... That surging is the primary and secondary not playing well together. I can't find a happy medium so now convinced if you are gonna be that particular then you need a clutch setup for the conditions your riding in that day.
i just clutch tune for the conditions that I mainly encounter 90% of the time.

 

[JIM]

well it may over rev a bit on the packed snow. I think if you dialed out the shock wave on the packed stuff and then dialed it in on the deep you will be happy. That is not the proper fix but it works for a day to day easy fix. I have seen secondary clutches sawed in half in the bottum from that white yami spring, it doesnt give enough side pressure. As long as I am between 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns out i am can make it work. Get used to the feel of your wind on the spring, and do it on your sled as you would on the trail and it will get easier every time you do it.

Jim

 

[powder muncher]

I run Heel Clicker weights and have one set of hammer weight's ( screws )

For hard-pack and one for DEEP SNOW takes 2 minutes to change and works way better than messing with the secondary.

My buddy on his Nytro jut takes the hammer weight right out , that works perfect for him.

cheers......