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Clutching

ricer68

Pro
Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Messages
133
Age
39
Location
Wabash Indiana
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2007 Yamaha Apex GT
LOCATION
North East Indiana
I have my 07 GT in the shop getting things finished up before I put it up for the year. I've been thinking about clutching it, but I've never messed with them befor. I believe I have stock clutching. Is there adjustments I can make to it to improve things? I've put a 136 extension on with 1.5 intense track. I'm mostly trail riding a little drag racing with my buddy. He's got a new car trubo on order, know I won't keep up with it. Would like to keep his Polaris 800.
 

I have my 07 GT in the shop getting things finished up before I put it up for the year. I've been thinking about clutching it, but I've never messed with them befor. I believe I have stock clutching. Is there adjustments I can make to it to improve things? I've put a 136 extension on with 1.5 intense track. I'm mostly trail riding a little drag racing with my buddy. He's got a new car trubo on order, know I won't keep up with it. Would like to keep his Polaris 800.
Not knowing alot of info on your weight / riding you do/studs/ect. I would shoot for having what is really stock clutching that is in a 07 attack model. Look on line at a parts diagram of it and would say that is a good set-up. Its mainly gearing change and secondary spring (white) and installed wrap position.
 
Not knowing alot of info on your weight / riding you do/studs/ect. I would shoot for having what is really stock clutching that is in a 07 attack model. Look on line at a parts diagram of it and would say that is a good set-up. Its mainly gearing change and secondary spring (white) and installed wrap position.
300lbs with gear. Ride mostly trail, but do get off trail and play when there's a place to do it. No studs with the 1.5 intense track. Haven't had much luck finding information about adjusting the stock clutching. What does each setting do? I've never messed with clutches before.
 
300lbs with gear. Ride mostly trail, but do get off trail and play when there's a place to do it. No studs with the 1.5 intense track. Haven't had much luck finding information about adjusting the stock clutching. What does each setting do? I've never messed with clutches before.
To be honest with ya I would just call Allen at Ulmer performance.... He will have real data on hand for your set-up on your sled and would save you time and money in the long run on guessing as well as a kit with all that is needed, along with great support on fine tuning..... Great guy.
 
To be honest with ya I would just call Allen at Ulmer performance.... He will have real data on hand for your set-up on your sled and would save you time and money in the long run on guessing as well as a kit with all that is needed, along with great support on fine tuning..... Great guy.
Yeah I've got a message into them. Was just curious if there was much tuning that could be done to the stock clutches. I couldn't find info in my manual about what changes to do what.
 
Do a search on here for Apex or Attak clutching. Lots of info and several clutch set ups. I used Drag n flys on my Attak, worked great.
 
This is what is on there currently.
 

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This is what is on there currently.
Stock helix. primary clutch spring is not stock. Clutches look dirty, blowing compressed air will give you better performance. I'm parting with my dragon fly kit if interested.
 
I have the cover off the primary, got a clutch puller coming this thursday. After i get the clutch off how do you get it apart? Do you have to use the expensive Yamaha tool?
 
First off I am no expert. I have fiddled with my set up allot this last year trying to dial in a super charger. First of all why do you want to take apart the spider is it sticking? there is a bushing in there that can be replaced but it is usually good for a long time. all of your cleaning and adjusting would be done with the front cover off and you could pull the whole clutch off the motor and throw it in the dishwasher(just don't tell the wife). all adjustments would be made in the weights (the three arms) they have rivets in them of different weights. and each one has three and each weight has an effect on different parts of your power curve but the over all weight also effects where your final rpm will be as well. if you replace the stock weights with adjustable aftermarket ones it makes fine tuning easier. Be sure to use medium strength lock tight on all bolts. the spring will adjust how easy or hard the clutch engages and also effect how fast it shifts out. the secondary(also put in dishwasher) has a helix and a spring. The helix has an exact angle ground into it and finished smooth as glass do not knick that part up as it will wear out your buttons that ride on the ramps. you can get helixes of different angels and even multi-angle as well this effects how hard it is for the secondary to be opened by the belt getting shorter from the primary closing has a big effect on mid range rpm and final top end rpm as well. and then you have the secondary spring its tension will effect how easy/hard it is to open secondary as well and the number settings you will find every hole the spring can go in on the clutch and the helix will have a number so if some one tells you to try 3-1 you would put on side of the spring in the 1 hole and the other in the 3 hole. this effects hoe tight the spring is wrapped when installed this will adjust top end rpm because of the resistance it take to open secondary and also effect backshift(how fast the secondary will close back up when you let off the throttle. too much back shift and it will put you over the bars not enough and the belt may slip when on the throttle then off and back on again fast. it is truly a symphony going on in there and there are so many variables to play with that unless you have lots of time to play with it you are best to get a basic set up from someone with similar set up and tweak from there. also only make one change at a time or you wont know what did what when fine tuning. every thing you change can effect every other part of the system.
 
also for what its worth do not lube any part of the system. Ask me why.
 
Thanks for the info! Yeah the spider was sticking, got it apart and cleaned everything behind it. It moves nice now, the dealer thought everything looked good still. Waiting to hear from Ulmer, wanting to get one of his kits. It had a EPI spring and weights in primary, stock secondary helix and white attack spring.
 
I have his clutch kit the super tips with adjustable weights. I am not sure if they would work for you as they were for a super charger set up and may be too heavy even empty. they have a couple thousand miles on them and are in good shape. if they would work and you are interested let me know we can work out a fair price.
 
I have his clutch kit the super tips with adjustable weights. I am not sure if they would work for you as they were for a super charger set up and may be too heavy even empty. they have a couple thousand miles on them and are in good shape. if they would work and you are interested let me know we can work out a fair price.
I'd guess the weights are too heavy, not sure on the helix. I've tried getting ahold of him for past couple days. I'm hoping to get it back together here shortly so I can get my shop back lol.
 
yes it take 2-3 days for a call back in my experience but when he calls back he is great to talk to and work with. A real nice guy too.
 


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