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Cobra 1.35 vs Ripsaw 2 1.25


I preferred the Cobra to the ripsaw 2 on my Apex. Same top end but better acceleration. Just installed a Storm 1.5 on the winder. Will test this weekend.
 
I preferred the Cobra to the ripsaw 2 on my Apex. Same top end but better acceleration. Just installed a Storm 1.5 on the winder. Will test this weekend.
Dead opposite in my findings. I have the RS2 on my 2007 Attak GT with Pro Line clutching (the best there is) and my brother in law has a 2008 LTX GT anniversary model Apex. His has the Cobra 1.35 and also Pro Line clutching. Hook up off the line is side by side but about at 85-90 mph mine starts to walk him up top.
 
You guys are not helping my decision lol. Back and forth.
 
Well I will help, call Kevin at Port Yamaha in Port Washington, Wisconsin. The guy is one of the most knowledgeable parts guys I have ever dealt with. I know what he will tell you.

Secondly I had the Cobra on a couple two stroke 3 cylinder Yamaha sleds I owned too. There was a big trade off, better hook up for sure but they suffered a big loss of top end. These four strokes have more torque so the top end loss is less drastic.

I was going to put a Cobra on mine but when I called Port Yamaha who had some great deals on them he steered me into the RS2. I had that 2008 to compare to also and I was very happy with my decision.
 
You guys are not helping my decision lol. Back and forth.

Not sure if this will help or confuse.

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In general, and in an attempt to create some rules of thumb or at least a way to make a selection process..

Only compare tracks of similar ply. 1 ply tracks (anything 1.7" and above, all pre-studded, and some specialty) are not suitable for high horsepower sleds. Too much evidence of lugs being torn off when riding in compromised conditions.

Lighter tracks will spin faster, easier but ... if the track composition (ply) is similar, the difference in weight must be due to
Lug Count
Lug durometer (hardness/thickness)
Despite being easier on initial spin, lighter durometer tracks will fold easier on hardpack and probably loose top end through deformation at higher rpms.

Heavier tracks will be will be harder, but most assuredly have much bigger lugs/more of them, or they are denser (harder and more durable). Harder durometer tracks (or stiffer lug design) will hold up better both on initial launch and at high RPM and more lugs equates directly to more biting surfaces and more traction on packed snow.

Comparing the cobra to the ripsaw II, it is lighter and lug count is similar-ish, so the lugs must be softer. Reports of them being softer and folding over under acceleration are numerous on the site. If you care about longevity, ride a lot in low snow, or rough conditions, or lots of ice, you probably want a 'tougher' track.

Comparing Ripsaw II to Ripsaw II 1.5 they weigh the same and seem to have the same rubber compound so the only way for the 1.5 to weigh the same as the shorter lugged ripsaw II 1.25 is by having less lugs. Looking at the picture this seems to be true.. less lug area to move snow but the Rip II 1.5 has deeper lugs making it better in deeper snow and slightly less capable in groomed and hardpack/ice conditions (fewer biting edges).

Same can be said for the Storm 150, while it is probably the most capable off trail of the cobra/ripsaws/storm it is probably also the softest as it has the lug count of the rip II 1.25, but lug height of the rip II 1.5, but somehow weighs less than either. Looking closely at the track more or less validates this as the cupped lugs seem thin between the stiffer posts on the lugs.

Choose a track based on riding style, where you ride, and the conditions you ride in. Guessing purely... Winnepeg, you probably get more snow and have less 'surprise' obstacles on the trails (logs/etc) than we do in southern ontario so you can probably get away with the slightly softer cobra or storm 150. Between those two, the storm 150 is going to be better off trail. The cobra will probably be a good all arounder, the rip II 1.5 will probably be the most durable of the three, and the shorter lug 1.25 rip II is probably not the best choice if the conditions you ride in have decent snow more often than not.

For southern ontario the rip II is probably the best compromise for the goat paths, surprise obstacles, and minimal deep snow we see. (we need a durable and hard track with predictable on trail manners vs off trail).
 
Although single ply, I liked the Ice Attack XT on the Apex. Similar beefy lugs as Rip II. Just shaved down a bit for pre-studs. They still list it for the Sidewinder so perhaps it can last on trail.

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I would be hesitant to use a single ply track on a boosted 998.
 
Amen, I installed a single ply on a 185hp. good running 1000 for a friend (tried to talk him out of it) and within the season it flapped a stud and wasted the cooler, what a mess. As I mentioned, I ran a Rip 2 on my 137 and could run in waist deep snow and it was solid on the trail. If I could have found one in a fully clipped 129 when I got this turbo I would have bought it. I rode it 100 miles with the factory Rip 1 and thought I would kill myself (fast trail). Started searching and found a new, fully clipped Cobra at the end of the season for $350 shipped...no brainer. 3 of the 5 ZR9's I rode with ran them in the 121" length (stock SnoPro track), we never went easy on those machines and a few hit 10K, did they scrub some speed on the lake? sure but we never spend much time on the lake anyway...
 
Heat on long pulls is what primarily kills any snowmobile tracks. Seen a vid on this from Gilles Gagné from G-Force. No he wasn't talking about his 200mph Apex. :) But because of his close relationship with Camso and experience I tend to believe him.

Camso claims 2ply vs single are just as strong. You can stud some of their single ply just not with any stud and retainer. Needs to be larger diameter stud head and backers. I bet some guys just use what there used to. But I don't stud and know Camso warranty is touch and go.

Regardless the pre-stud Ice Attack XT above should not be studded even if I have seen it done without issues. Around here the common denominator of how a track last is not the track. Some guys goes through all of them like tissue paper.

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Heat on long pulls is what primarily kills any snowmobile tracks. Seen a vid on this from Gilles Gagné from G-Force. No he wasn't talking about his 200mph Apex. :) But because of his close relationship with Camso and experience I tend to believe him.

They claim 2ply vs single are just as strong. You can stud some of their single ply just not with any stud and retainer. Needs to be larger diameter stud head and backers. I bet some guys just use what there used to.

Regardless the pre-stud Ice Attack XT above should not be studded even if I have seen it done without issues. Around here the common denominator of how a track last is not the track. Some guys goes through all of them like tissue paper.

True. I have thousands of miles on single ply turbo Doos with no issues, and I used and studded the Iceripper too! I used small 2-ply megabytes on the large single ply double backers. Never had a pull out or track let go. I did however break a fiberglass rod on one but the track stayed intact.

I do the same on the two ply 2.86" pitch track I have on the Winder. Small headed 2-ply Megabites on large backers for the 2.86 pitch. Small head studs rob less track HP vs the large head studs FYI. Large backers offer more support to prevent flex and don't cost any track HP.

I did have a studded 2-ply ripsaw track let go on Lake Gogibic in MI. on a turbo RX-1 at 135 MPH. When my buds dragged the track back to me 10-15 min later it was still steaming! It literally pulled apart right at the fiberglass rod line, did not rip at a stud line which really surprised me.

Talking with Willie Ewing who set the 24 hr record on his Thundercat last year. He ran an unstuded stock 1.25" RipII and his track temps were as high as hi belt temps! 140 Degree track temps when he'd come in for fuel! What's incredible is there was so much underhood air flow, that his belt was also running only 140 degrees too!
 
Good to know on the 1 ply tracks. That gives me a lot more options for track replacement next season.
 
Ok so where we land on this argument lol. I found my track looks like it is cracking around the studs length wise on the track like it’s dry rotted almost. Anyway I know of a cobra take off brand new and a ripsaw 2 with little over a season on it. Bonus is cobra doesn’t have the dumb quiet pads and is clipped every window.

Does the flexibility of lug actually give it more durability since it wont crack and break but will fold and conform to the terrain? When on bare ice will lugs fold and allow more penetration of the studs? Is it as strong a track in tension as a ripsaw or chance of pulling apart?
 
Ok so where we land on this argument lol. I found my track looks like it is cracking around the studs length wise on the track like it’s dry rotted almost. Anyway I know of a cobra take off brand new and a ripsaw 2 with little over a season on it. Bonus is cobra doesn’t have the dumb quiet pads and is clipped every window.

Does the flexibility of lug actually give it more durability since it wont crack and break but will fold and conform to the terrain? When on bare ice will lugs fold and allow more penetration of the studs? Is it as strong a track in tension as a ripsaw or chance of pulling apart?

Can't go wrong either way it sounds.
 
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