Code 81 Following Oil Change

[kranger]

After completing my first oil/filter change on a 2006 Attak (purchased used), including idling for oil top off and leak check, I was warming it up for a short run, hit the grip warmer and the self-diagnosis and warning lights started flashing. Shut it down, restarted and code 81 showed. After looking thru the codes and seeing that it is an able/able I did take it on a short run. Re-started it later and no code. Can't recall if I shutdown he grip warmer. Read thru the code 81 threads and am still wondering if I have a real issue or not. Fully charged the battery while doing the oil change. The previous owner had new handle bar heaters installed back in 2009. Receipt shows a SMA-HOTGP-ST part number. There are a couple of wires (one purple and one black) not connected - see pdf file with photos. Does anyone have any info on how this specific handle bar heater is wired? Also, there is an additional indicator light run up to the side on the instrument cluster. This light did not come when I started the sled as it had in the past. Appreciate any info/recommendations. Thanks

 

[steiner]

I believe that purple wire is used when you have a Sled Start remote system.

 

[sideshowBob]

I would first off:
- attach the black wires to ground somewhere, you can't have too many grounds on these sleds.
-check your battery voltage

As you know code 81 is grip warmers.
I had an intermittent code 81 all last season on my Attak.
I did extensive off season maintenance and one thing I found was that my 5 year old EarthX lithium ion battery was only putting out @10 volts even after trying to charge for a lengthy period. Suprisingly I never had a no-start issue with the weak battery. Obviously my Attak would have been in Charge mode the whole time I was riding with the low voltage battery. I replaced the battery this year, now no more code 81.
When your engine is off check your battery voltage with a multi-meter it should be more then 13...you can also check battery voltage with the gage pod in diagnostic mode.
Keep us posted

 

[kranger]

Thanks - do you recommend measuring the battery voltage using the jumper leads or pulling off the air intake and getting right down to the battery? I am not familiar with the gage pod diagnostic mode - I will do some searching on this site. Gives me some things to investigate tonight.

I am not sure how old the battery is, but the last note in the maintenance log for a battery change is Dec 09. I was debating whether to change it when I had everything off.

 

[sideshowBob]

You can measure the battery voltage at the jumper leads. Measure the voltage with everything off....shud be 13+... then measure the voltage while cranking before engine starts...shud be 12+[may be hard to do]
If the battery really is from 09 its probably time to change it.
Its funny but almost everytime our Apexs start getting electrical glitches its simply a battery issue.
[PS: Hook the black ground wires under the 10mm head bolt holding down the headlight mount bracket]

JM.02c

 

[kranger]

You can measure the battery voltage at the jumper leads. Measure the voltage with everything off....shud be 13+... then measure the voltage while cranking before engine starts...shud be 12+[may be hard to do]
If the battery really is from 09 its probably time to change it.
Its funny but almost everytime our Apexs start getting electrical glitches its simply a battery issue.
[PS: Hook the black ground wires under the 10mm head bolt holding down the headlight mount bracket]

JM.02c

Did not have a lot of time last night, but measured 12.8V with everything shutoff and it dropped to ~10V cranking. Started it up and no code 81 until I hit the grip warmer button. No code on thump warmer.

When I replace the battery, will I need to reset the code? Taking it back down will give me a chance to re-check all of the connections as well.

Last - what make of battery is everyone running? Right it is in my heated garage to work on, but normally it is in unheated pole barn.

 

[sideshowBob]

The code should clear on its own but will be stored in the diagnostic code info in gage pod.
Did you reconnect those grounds?
I run a Earth X Lithium battery but they are very expensive and not needed. There are lots of threads on here about Apex replacement battery, just do a search...lots of good info.

 

[kranger]

The code should clear on its own but will be stored in the diagnostic code info in gage pod.
Did you reconnect those grounds?
I run a Earth X Lithium battery but they are very expensive and not needed. There are lots of threads on here about Apex replacement battery, just do a search...lots of good info.

I did not reconnect the ground wire on Wednesday night, just had enough time to take the voltage measurements. Reconnected the ground last night and grip warmer indicator light came on and no code when I hit the warmer button. Since this wire had not been previously connected, I'm thinking low battery voltage must be a factor. Will be replacing - need to finish going through more of the battery threads. Thanks for your help on this sideshowBob

 

[sideshowBob]

Thanks for your help on this sideshowBob

No problem

 

[WinderFab]

I’ve had apex’s since 07 if I were you I would go with the Yuasa YTX20H-BS, the extra cca are a bonus to have just remove the foam and the 20 series will fit, if you rather not remove the foam pad than go with the original Yuasa YTX14H-BS size.

Just last week I was in “La Sarre” northern Quebec on a sled ride and one of the days we had major rain, I was soaked to the bone, that night the temps dropped to -25c next morning my sled wouldn’t start, fuel relay was clicking and all but just wouldn’t fire, finally around noon with the hair dryer blowing heat under the hood the sled started. By the time it started my battery which is the Yuasa YTX20H-BS series was getting pretty slow to crank the motor, I think the stock size 14 series would of died on me.