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Cold Weather VS Tunes (Race)

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Nate68......talk about a stand up guy. Thanks for chiming in. I felt an unnecessary Lynch Mob forming.

Feel bad for you. But I love that you understand the risks!

Great job!

Nate you live by Milwaukee?
 
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jtmetal said:
Nate68......talk about a stand up guy. Thanks for chiming in. I felt an unnecessary Lynch Mob forming.

Feel bad for you. But I love that you understand the risks!

Great job!

Nate you live by Milwaukee?
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I live on the west side by Hudson
 
Guys, this thread has been cleaned up and re opened for comments. Warning, name calling and fights back and forth between camps will simply not be tolerated. Consider this your warning if that's the path you chose.

I'm hoping we can turn this into a positive thread, with good solid information so this doesn't happen to others. If the 280 Hurricane race tune is a 93 octane tune, then it should reflect that information not just on GAP flasher, but the website as well. I'll also add that I believe any tune over 250 HP could but not always be risky with only 91 octane. For the money we all have invested, a few more bucks for a half bottle of Torco can save you dearly.

I wish the best for Nate and hope he gets things resolved. Let's please keep this discussion civil.
 
I would like to add a few more things. First off in my eyes to be ultimately safe, any tune over 240 HP should have gauges to watch AFR, Boost and Engine Temp. How else will you find those lean conditions when cruising at steady throttle for long periods of time and at what boost levels and RPMs do they happen. All sleds and driver will react to changing snow conditions and temperatures differently. Also your engine temp gauge is one of the most important gauge when cruising long steady pulls.. adding boost will really raise the engine temps if not fueled correctly. If you see engine temps rising from long pulls, you need to back out before detonation occurs.

Please guys dont make this a battle. We are a small community and we need to stick together. Low snow years and lack of funds in this sport really start to take its toll and before you know it places like TY and many other great sites and business will be gone. Learn from mistakes and help each other in these trying times.
 
Nate, Keep us posted buddy. Hope your luck gets better and keep riding!

Like to get a ride in with you since dootalk days......
 
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I have the utmost confidence in the td powertrail reflash 265-270hp on 91 octane. Even on 87 its been reliable plenty customers at over 14000 miles since last season. Many Hundreds of flashed sled since December last year.

Zero failures with td ecu reflash even on our high powered setups 285hp to 350hp race maps. We have over 15 guys setup at 30psi of boost. All stock motors. And many more on the 285+ setups.

We do however recommend 94 octane for our new max spool 17 for now until knock warning is setup then we will allow 91 to be used on the 280hp+ setup.

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
 
Turbo Dynamics said:
I have the utmost confidence in the td powertrail reflash 265-270hp on 91 octane. Even on 87 its been reliable plenty customers at over 14000 miles since last season. Many Hundreds of flashed sled since December last year.

Zero failures with td ecu reflash even on our high powered setups 285hp to 350hp race maps. We have over 15 guys setup at 30psi of boost. All stock motors. And many more on the 285+ setups.

We do however recommend 94 octane for our new max spool 17 for now until knock warning is setup then we will allow 91 to be used on the 280hp+ setup.

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
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Looking forward to the updates and knock protection.
 
Today's modern fuel injection systems and engine management systems are made to keep the air/fuel ratios within a set parameter no matter what the air temperature is.
Tuners adjust those parameters to make more hp. Nobody would sell a tune knowing that the parameters were not safe.
What the unknowns are is fuel quality and general conditions of the engine.
This is where a good working knock protection safety system will help.
Until we have a good knock protection system up and running with unknown fuel quality it's like giving a monkey a loaded pistol to play with!
 
MrSled said:
I would like to add a few more things. First off in my eyes to be ultimately safe, any tune over 240 HP should have gauges to watch AFR, Boost and Engine Temp. How else will you find those lean conditions when cruising at steady throttle for long periods of time and at what boost levels and RPMs do they happen. All sleds and driver will react to changing snow conditions and temperatures differently. Also your engine temp gauge is one of the most important gauge when cruising long steady pulls.. adding boost will really raise the engine temps if not fueled correctly. If you see engine temps rising from long pulls, you need to back out before detonation occurs.

Please guys dont make this a battle. We are a small community and we need to stick together. Low snow years and lack of funds in this sport really start to take its toll and before you know it places like TY and many other great sites and business will be gone. Learn from mistakes and help each other in these trying times.
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Great advice Mr.Sled,we all need to work togeather,as this is such an awesome sport in our minds,but not all minds out there share our passion. Mr sled when you stated engine temps,do you mean our water temp gauge we can see very easy,as my temp on that is generally 175 gegrees.
 
snowbeast said:
Great advice Mr.Sled,we all need to work togeather,as this is such an awesome sport in our minds,but not all minds out there share our passion. Mr sled when you stated engine temps,do you mean our water temp gauge we can see very easy,as my temp on that is generally 175 gegrees.
Click to expand...

Yes the water temp is the main engine temp. Mine usually runs 167 to 175 deg. If you see your temps climbing to 185 -190 I would start to think about why?
 
Turbo Dynamics said:
I have the utmost confidence in the td powertrail reflash 265-270hp on 91 octane. Even on 87 its been reliable plenty customers at over 14000 miles since last season. Many Hundreds of flashed sled since December last year.

Zero failures with td ecu reflash even on our high powered setups 285hp to 350hp race maps. We have over 15 guys setup at 30psi of boost. All stock motors. And many more on the 285+ setups.

We do however recommend 94 octane for our new max spool 17 for now until knock warning is setup then we will allow 91 to be used on the 280hp+ setup.

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Are you estimating the hp level or have you dyno'd these tunes? I know you've done a lot of testing just wondering?
 
Nate68 said:
The Facebook post was mine. I took it down because it got way off topic and I was sick of my phone going crazy. It was 91 octane non ethanol fuel not bar gas. I hauled it to Bergland with a full tank of fuel and rode to Lake of the Clouds from there(on the same tank). This flash was done at a dealer along with the exhaust and clutching. I did not ask a question in my post nor did I bash anyone, I was simply venting about my shitty trip and making awareness. I called the dealer this morning and was calm and listened to what they had to say. I have raced and pushed the envelope on engines before and know the risk. It sucks that it ended up like this after 1 day of riding but #*$&@ happens. And as far as long as WOT runs that did NOT happen at all!! There were so many sleds up there and poor trail conditions that WOT was not happening. Also we off loaded in Bergland on the North side of the Lake... So no WOT lake runs either. Would have been fun though to see what she could have done because it was a beast up to that point.
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Sucks that this happened.. Thanks for posting and setting things straight! Hopefully your dealer takes care of you.
 
See n blue said:
Are you estimating the hp level or have you dyno'd these tunes? I know you've done a lot of testing just wondering?
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Dyno... Btw guys the motor that went down wasn't on a td tune fyi. We don't want to mixed in that story. We do test our tunes in all weather from - 40 Celsius to +10 for the trail tunes and +35 for the summer race tune.

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk
 
I waited a year to ensure testing was done on the early tunes and there have been many adjustments thus far. After doing my research, talking with a few dyno operators and guys with lots of miles of testing I chose a TD tune but at the 265/270 level as above that I feel that you are going to be pushing it if fuel is a concern. I wanted a powerful sled that I could ride all day and not worry and going above this level presented too much of a trade off. Once knock protection comes I will be upgrading to it as it was awesome on my 1100 previously. So far in a couple of hundred miles I have been very happy. We all must know the risks, as the piper at times come calling!!

Jester
 
MrSled said:
I would like to add a few more things. First off in my eyes to be ultimately safe, any tune over 240 HP should have gauges to watch AFR, Boost and Engine Temp. How else will you find those lean conditions when cruising at steady throttle for long periods of time and at what boost levels and RPMs do they happen. All sleds and driver will react to changing snow conditions and temperatures differently. Also your engine temp gauge is one of the most important gauge when cruising long steady pulls.. adding boost will really raise the engine temps if not fueled correctly. If you see engine temps rising from long pulls, you need to back out before detonation occurs.

Please guys dont make this a battle. We are a small community and we need to stick together. Low snow years and lack of funds in this sport really start to take its toll and before you know it places like TY and many other great sites and business will be gone. Learn from mistakes and help each other in these trying times.
Click to expand...
So having said that ( cruising at a steady speed... ) would it be better to vary rpm's and speed especially when temps are fridged like we're experiencing ? And also when temps go back to normal? Or just ride normal? assuming we have good gas. What if you think you picked up some bad gas, should riding style change to minimize risk? Obviously no WOT runs if gas is questionable.
 
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