Control Rods Question?

treemax

Veteran
Joined
Jan 28, 2005
Messages
39
Reaction score
0
Points
456
Location
Eau Claire Wi.
For more transfer should I spin the nuts up towards the tunnel or down towards the bottom of the rods? Also will this help it be smoother in the stutter bumps. I have my pre-loads set to soft and my bottom stopers removed feels pretty good but a bit stiff in the stutters at lower speeds seems the faster I go the smoother it gets. I weigh about 175 fully geared and I used to have a Viper with a M-10 couldn't feel the stutters at all with that suspension. Is the Vector suspension capable of being as smooth as an M-10 in the stutters? Don't get me wrong it eats the bumps up very well just a little stiff in the stutters at low speeds.
 
Reduce the size of the gap for less transfer or increase it for more.

This will also control when the front and rear of the skid couple. The larger the gap, the more independant travel in the front and rear shock and the softer the suspension will be.

When the gap is small the suspension will couple earlier in its travel. At this point both shocks are working together and the suspension will stifen up.

Hope this helps.
 
Up would close the gap and mean less transfer.

Down would increase the gap and mean more transfer.
 
I increased the gap by two turns from the stock position (nuts down), removed the anti bottoming stoppers, and increased the preload of the front track shock spring by two turns. My sled now rides better than anything I've ever been on and handles every type of terrain with ease.
 
I did before I made all the other changes. I tightened them up by one hole, but did not like the results. The steering (to me) became to heavy and cumbersom, so I put them back......then made the other adjustments.

I'm not the type of person that needs to dial the suspension in every day for varying conditions. The way I have the rear set now is to my liking.....again this is for me, the way I ride, and the conditions I ride in. I'm really enjoying the way its handling and performing now.

The only other thing that I'm going to try (that I haven't yet) is different adjustments to the ski shock spring pre loads.

PS: Had to edit that last line from front shock to ski shocks. :drink:
 
Well i am making similar adjustments to what you have made already but I weigh about 70 pounds more than you. I am getting my suspension dialed in to where I like it but since i also drag race the thing in 660' drags I'm always chagning it between trail riding and drag racing. So far I haven't touched my limiter straps for trail riding so maybe I ought to give that a shot too.
 
The lines on the rods on my Vector are on the lower end of the rod....so by turning the nuts so they "go down the rod" thus eliminating the lines.....this increases the gap, and increases transfer.
 
Tfin said:
I increased the gap by two turns from the stock position (nuts down), removed the anti bottoming stoppers, and increased the preload of the front track shock spring by two turns. My sled now rides better than anything I've ever been on and handles every type of terrain with ease.

Tfin - could you please give me some type of measurement on where you're at on your front track spring? Mine is at "full loose" when holding the sled up. The nut is tightened just enough to keep the spring from dangling around.

Thanks!
 
Well I'm at the office right now, so unfortunately I can't give you an exact measurement. BUT....I can tell you that I increased the front track shock spring preload by TWO full turns from the way it came from the dealer (factory I guess).

If you want an exact measurement, I can measure it tonight and reply tomorrow.
 


Back
Top