how ya guys bleeding the coolant on the rx-1. just getting the front up higher than the system, and then purging? or is there some other lines around that need to be purged as like on the srx in the back. i am not familiar with yamahas
thanx in advance
thanx in advance
Yes there is a bleed in the back, but as of yet I have not had to use it. Just raised the front end
Thanx, I might have to, keeps over heating. i may a bubble trapped back there some place
Post Herald
Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 19, 2003
- Messages
- 5
Your dealer likely did not set-up the sled properly - it's common . Make sure you find out from yamaha how to do this correctly.
RobX-1
VIP Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 2,105
- Location
- Coldwater, OH
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 18 50th Apex XT-X, 08 40th Apex LTX GT, 08 40th Nytro RTX, & 03 RX-1
Actually, you do NOT raise the front end. There is a bleed screw on the back (have to remove plastic just above bumper to access the bleed screw). Then you have to raise the rear of the sled (I too always thought you were to raise the front but this was per the Service Manual and re-confirmed with dealer). I had to change a heater coolant hose and had to do this. I probably raised the rear of the sled by about 2 feet off the ground. I then added coolant to the reservoir while the bleed screw is off. Coolant will flow out the bleed screw. Continue filling the coolant reservoir until you see no bubbles flowing out the bleed screw (I just watched for a steady stream of coolant coming out the bleed screw). Put bleed screw and coolant reservoir cap back on and fill coolant reservoir to cold level. Warm up sled, approx. 2500-3000rpm for 3-5 minutes. Shut down sled and then slowly remove coolant reservoir cap (or wait a bit until it cools). Remove bleed screw and then repeat bleeding steps until there are no air bubbles. Put bleed screw and coolant reservoir cap back on and then fill to cold level. Re-install plastic cover and then you are good to go.
joe howard
Veteran
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2003
- Messages
- 29
Robx , well stated , and due to many improper dealer set ups, I believe there are many more out there with air in the systems - I've seen too many rx's with hot lights coming on .
JDKRXW
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Do what the service manual says..... but, you have NOTHING to loose by also lifting the front end up high and checking for bubbles too.
With all of the coolant passages (and potential for trapped air) in the engine, and for the amount of time it takes, I would be doing it.
I've also seen how much trapped air can come out of a two stroke when not bled properly (1/2 gallon).
With all of the coolant passages (and potential for trapped air) in the engine, and for the amount of time it takes, I would be doing it.
I've also seen how much trapped air can come out of a two stroke when not bled properly (1/2 gallon).
RobX-1
VIP Member
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2003
- Messages
- 2,105
- Location
- Coldwater, OH
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 18 50th Apex XT-X, 08 40th Apex LTX GT, 08 40th Nytro RTX, & 03 RX-1
JDKRXW, how did you ever measure a 1/2 gallon of air :lol:
Just kidding but when I first read that, I asked myself the same question. When I read it again, I realized you were stating that the sled had so much air in it that it cause the coolant to be 1/2 gallon low. 8)
After reading a post by RX Wonder, I would confer with you in raising the front end as well to check for air pockets. He too bled the system per manual but then ened up having one side of the heat exchanger be less hot as the other side. He ended up running the sled up a hill a bit to raise front end and when he removed the coolant reservoir cap, it let out a big burp. My temp light came on this past Saturday while riding but I think it may be because of me adjusting my TPS. I saw the post from Supertuner and will be resetting it back to stock for trail riding and then advancing it only for drag racing. However, I will still check both heat exchangers for equal heat and raise front up if not equal.
Just kidding but when I first read that, I asked myself the same question. When I read it again, I realized you were stating that the sled had so much air in it that it cause the coolant to be 1/2 gallon low. 8)
After reading a post by RX Wonder, I would confer with you in raising the front end as well to check for air pockets. He too bled the system per manual but then ened up having one side of the heat exchanger be less hot as the other side. He ended up running the sled up a hill a bit to raise front end and when he removed the coolant reservoir cap, it let out a big burp. My temp light came on this past Saturday while riding but I think it may be because of me adjusting my TPS. I saw the post from Supertuner and will be resetting it back to stock for trail riding and then advancing it only for drag racing. However, I will still check both heat exchangers for equal heat and raise front up if not equal.
Mountain Performance recommends filling the reservoir then tipping the sled on its right side while its running. Repeat until it won't take any more coolant. Works great and no coolant lost on the ground or garage floor.
Well I just finished installing a rear heat exchanger on my 04 mountain. The directions for bleeding seem pretty vague from yamaha. Is there a set way to get the air out?
kmer
Expert
Hey there, Sled Dog...
To install the rear heat x-changer, first I topped off the reservoir 100%. Then elevate the rear (like 3 or 4') to minimize coolant loss during removal of the rear cross over tube.
During the button-up, I think we were able to get some (not alot) coolant in the xchanger to minimize air. Important to keep bleed screw hole (open) above reservoir lip.
After installation complete, with rear bleed screw removed, lower rear until bleed screw hole is slightly lower than the lip of the coolant reservoir. Add coolant, with engine running, until bubbles stop. Do not install the bleed screw until all bubbles are gone. You may have to lower the rear little by little but always try to keep running boards angled nose-down.
It was a little messy, but never had to re-bleed or anything. Overheat woes are gone.
Cheers.
To install the rear heat x-changer, first I topped off the reservoir 100%. Then elevate the rear (like 3 or 4') to minimize coolant loss during removal of the rear cross over tube.
During the button-up, I think we were able to get some (not alot) coolant in the xchanger to minimize air. Important to keep bleed screw hole (open) above reservoir lip.
After installation complete, with rear bleed screw removed, lower rear until bleed screw hole is slightly lower than the lip of the coolant reservoir. Add coolant, with engine running, until bubbles stop. Do not install the bleed screw until all bubbles are gone. You may have to lower the rear little by little but always try to keep running boards angled nose-down.
It was a little messy, but never had to re-bleed or anything. Overheat woes are gone.
Cheers.
Thanks kmer hope my overheat problems are gone I added about a litre of 60/40 coolant with not a whole bunch of losses. The kit goes in pretty well but there is a lot of work involved to do good job. Drilling the holes was chore with my drill as it was so long I had to angel it in then turn the track to get the right angle for the back 4 holes. The template I made off the actual cooler nailed the front three perfect. Now my darn headlights arent working any Ideas just noticed it when I fired it up after the install. leaving it for the night maybe it wiill be working in the morning. lol
Thanks kmer and nice talking too you.
Thanks kmer and nice talking too you.
kmer
Expert
Sled Dog said:
Ya, drilling the front holes were fun, as I recall.
As for the headlights, here's a guess.... as the beast wakes up, I think the brain does some system diagnostics first, before turning the headlights on. I would try it again a couple times and of course, check fuses :? .... or.... how long did you say the drill was?
NY_Nytro
TY 4 Stroke Master
I bleed the system by raising and lowering both ends and also tipping the sled side to side.
No little air bubble is going to sneak by me !
No little air bubble is going to sneak by me !
Ok kmer I checked the length of the drill and there is no way it could reach the engine from the back of tunnel extension on a mountain. I did check the fuses and there it was a little yellow 20 amp had blew. Nice to know Yamaha gives you a spare 20 and a spare 10. I bought some 20's and put two spares in each sled. The lights are working fine now.
kmer said:Sled Dog said:
Ya, drilling the front holes were fun, as I recall.
As for the headlights, here's a guess.... as the beast wakes up, I think the brain does some system diagnostics first, before turning the headlights on. I would try it again a couple times and of course, check fuses :? .... or.... how long did you say the drill was?
