TurboMatt
Pro
I am going to be reassembling my this coming week and a a few questions. This is for an Apex.
Loctite or no Loctite on the bottom on the ARP studs?
Does 42ftlbs final torque with moly sound good?
I remember reading somewhere that a couple of the studs are too long and you either have to use an extra washer on them or cut them down a bit or else the nuts bottom out on the threads. I can't find the info for the life of me now. Fill me in.
thanks in advance
Loctite or no Loctite on the bottom on the ARP studs?
Does 42ftlbs final torque with moly sound good?
I remember reading somewhere that a couple of the studs are too long and you either have to use an extra washer on them or cut them down a bit or else the nuts bottom out on the threads. I can't find the info for the life of me now. Fill me in.
thanks in advance
I used red on the bottom of the studs going into the block. I did 43 ftlbs. Also use some molly lube as you will get about 10 more ft lb of torque If you have time get some arp nuts. They are a 12pt 12mm "normal" nut that won't bottom out. Yes, the oem stud nuts can bottom out and if your not careful you won't know it until you pull a stud out of your block if they do bottom out. You can get around this by stacking washers but if you do make sure they are the hardened oem washers. That's why it's just easier to get the arp nuts and not worry about measuring to see how many washers you have to stack etc. I got mine through Hurricane. If you do get the arp nuts a 12mm socket won't fit down into the 3 or 4 Intake stud holes that are smaller then the rest. I had Dave take a 12mm socket and put it in his lathe so it would fit.
TurboMatt
Pro
I have the ARP nuts and washers. So I don't have any bottoming problems to worry about? I bought the studs, nuts and washers from Simons CPR cause he is right down the road from me. I coulda swore he gave me like 3 extra washers and said I had to stack 3 specific ones. It's been 2 months since then I can't remember anymore. Could I just have the studs cut down slightly to accomplish the same thing?
TurboMatt
Pro
TurboMatt said:
Anyone?
JIM
Extreme
You better check for yourself, cause info on here is just info.. check each stud and head location lengths...
TurboMatt
Pro
Well after mocking everything up, comparing lengths, etc. I came to the conclusion that I could take .150" off the bottom of the ARP studs. Made up a little jig on the Bridgeport at work and sidemilled them down, put a slight chamfer on the end, thread file the end threads and you're good to go. That put them just a tad longer than the stockers and they should work perfect. No chance of bottoming out now, no stacked washers.
I red loctited them in yesterday morning and plan to assemble tomarrow.
Is there any benefit of using ARP nuts versus the stockers? I'm thinking about using the stockers cause they will fit easier, especially those 3 middle ones. Then I don't have to turn down one of my sockets to make it thin wall. I just can't see the stockers being any bit of a downgrade to the ARP nuts. What are your thoughts?
I red loctited them in yesterday morning and plan to assemble tomarrow.
Is there any benefit of using ARP nuts versus the stockers? I'm thinking about using the stockers cause they will fit easier, especially those 3 middle ones. Then I don't have to turn down one of my sockets to make it thin wall. I just can't see the stockers being any bit of a downgrade to the ARP nuts. What are your thoughts?
TurboMatt said:
call me and i can go over the set-up with you again. no need to modify anything, you have everything you need in my stud kit. jeff 1-414-698-6611
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Jan-Ove Pedersen
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My ARP studs are torked to 45 ft/lb or 60Nm, I used both the Yamaha washers and the ARP washers together with the Yamaha nuts. Added red loctite to the end of the studs and torked them to 10Nm and let the loctite cure a day or two.
Added moly lube to nuts threads and connecting surfaces, stud threads, and both sides of all washers. Torked in steps, 20Nm then 35Nm then 50Nm then 60Nm, finally I loosened the nuts a 1/4 turn before torking them to 60Nm in one continous movement. All nuts went close to 1/2 turn to get them back to 60Nm.
Added moly lube to nuts threads and connecting surfaces, stud threads, and both sides of all washers. Torked in steps, 20Nm then 35Nm then 50Nm then 60Nm, finally I loosened the nuts a 1/4 turn before torking them to 60Nm in one continous movement. All nuts went close to 1/2 turn to get them back to 60Nm.
TurboMatt
Pro
I ended up cutting .150" off the end off the studs to get them the same length as the stock studs. That way I didn't have to stack washers. I used all stock nuts. ARP moly lube on everything. I used lok-tite on the bottom of the studs, let it dry for a couple days. torqued in steps to 42ft/lbs. I'll let you know this winter how it works out.lol
