Cracked rail - will it hold

wolfe9904

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Noticed a crack in my rail today by the inner front idler excell wheel. curious if it will hold for the season or you guys know a fast fix.
 
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To me that's not ridable. Needs to be welded, plated on outside and weld plate and you'll be good to go.
 
Same happened to mine last winter on both rails, it’s the oversized wheels that cause this.

X2 not rideable..
 
A friend's Vector went all season with cracks in front and in back, but my son managed to rip out the front shock bolt hole on our 05, wondered why it handled wierd, so to keep riding, I got some steel plate..maybe 1/16 thick, and 10 -32 screws, cut and formed the plate to fit and incorporated the hole, drilled and tapped the aluminum, and it's been on for years.
To make it easier, I made a template from thin cardboard, then transferred the shape and hole positions to steel.
 
I'd be a little worried to drive that. If the trail gets rough and it does snap clean off your going to have a more serious problem. I'd just grind it out a bit and fill it with weld. Then see if you could get a fish plate on it for added strength and then you'd be good to go.
 
Thanks guys, I'm just going to order a new one and replace it. I'm hoping I can just loosen the track and get the side off with out pulling the skid out
 
Not sure what sled you have but Travis at barn of parts makes a longer reinforcement kit for the rails. I had the same thing happen to me . I welded it installed the Rail stiffener and it's good to go . If you don't add the extra protection then the other side might crack also.
 
My rail stiffeners only address the ltx rails.

I have nice clean used 121 rails here in stock if you need one.

Keep in mind a new rail comes bare. All riveted items will need to be swapped over to new rail.

Here's a tip for you. There is a long bolt with a 12mm hex head right behind the front pivot arm mounts on rail. This long bolt runs through steel sleeve between the rail. After years of use and corrosion it is often impossible to get the bolt out of the sleeve and it has to be cut apart. I would suggest trying to get that bolt out ahead of time otherwise you my find your self not having the parts to finish the job once you go to replace the rail.
 
you guys think I can change the rail out with the sled in the air with out pulling the skid? just unbolt the one side
 
A friend's Vector went all season with cracks in front and in back, but my son managed to rip out the front shock bolt hole on our 05, wondered why it handled wierd, so to keep riding, I got some steel plate..maybe 1/16 thick, and 10 -32 screws, cut and formed the plate to fit and incorporated the hole, drilled and tapped the aluminum, and it's been on for years.
To make it easier, I made a template from thin cardboard, then transferred the shape and hole positions to steel.
wonder if i make a solid brace and do the same it will be ok? I cant see putting a new rail in for it to do the same thing. I would take out that outside wheel brace and make the bracket go right up against the next bracket and.make one for the other side as well
 
wonder if i make a solid brace and do the same it will be ok? I cant see putting a new rail in for it to do the same thing. I would take out that outside wheel brace and make the bracket go right up against the next bracket and.make one for the other side as well
It cracks the thin part but unless a total failure, they stop at the thick part. He sold his nytro so can't say, but it was cracked in the back and never did anything with it. The shock cross shaft bolt in front came out on my son (our vector)which elongated the hole and cracked but the little metal plate has worked great. He beats the hell out of it on bumps...lol...kids!!
Last year, he couldn't control the sled, then we fount the front arm broke...no wonder! !!So that got gusseted like my apex mono ( never cracked) and I painted it with left over bedliner....actually looked pretty good covering up any grinding and butcher welding!!
 


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