MXD
Pro
Is it possible to run the a-arms too low. So much so that I could possibly do damage during a hard bottom? I run mine just a tad higher than parallel to the ground.
Ported Hornet
Expert
I run mine parrallel to the ground and nothing yet, knock on wood.
kinger
VIP Member
Can anyone with GYTR's get there level? I think the guys with floats its easier but I cannot get them level. My procedure is to jack them off the off the ground and loosen the preload till the spring is not touching the stopper then add one turn and they aren't close to level. The ZX2 may have mine screwed up.
Ported Hornet
Expert
I haven't had any sucess getting the gtr level on other sleds I have messed with.
ahicks
TY 4 Stroke Master
Yup, level works pretty good. Anyone considered shorter springs for the GYTR's?
you can get the GYTR shocks to level out the a-arms but i would't suggest it,because if you do you might lose the bottom spring washer/seat the springs sit on when your shocks have no load= skies in the air/coming off a hill/jump,theres a groove cut out in the "washer" and it can slide out from around the shaft,causing spring to come down on rebound adj breaking/bending it.
mulderdad
Expert
Will having the a-arms right down as far as they can go help gain some speed in a 2000 ft run on ice or leave em level?
How bout the rear up in air or adjust it low as possible too?
How bout the rear up in air or adjust it low as possible too?
Triple X
Extreme
mulderdad said:
Sleds are always faster slammed to the ground, front & back. Rick, is there a radar run up your way, Dave.
mulderdad
Expert
Hey Dave.
No radar run, just a couple guys were out runnin on pine lake on the weekend. Thought it would be fun to try it out. Any advantage of just lowering the front and leaving the rear alone/
I might head over to check it out if anyone is there this weekend. There is 2000 ft plowed glare ice. A friend told me it was 2000ft. But don't quote me. I won't know till I run down it to measure its length.
Any tips on slamming the back down along with the front? I'd like to ride there, slam it, run it a couple times and then jack it back and ride home. Also want to run it as it is to see what the difference is. I live about 3 minutes away by car and 30 mins on sled b/c we have to go the LONG way round as the back roads are pretty much bare.
Cheers,
Rick.
Hey MXD, sorry for jackin your thread.
No radar run, just a couple guys were out runnin on pine lake on the weekend. Thought it would be fun to try it out. Any advantage of just lowering the front and leaving the rear alone/
I might head over to check it out if anyone is there this weekend. There is 2000 ft plowed glare ice. A friend told me it was 2000ft. But don't quote me. I won't know till I run down it to measure its length.
Any tips on slamming the back down along with the front? I'd like to ride there, slam it, run it a couple times and then jack it back and ride home. Also want to run it as it is to see what the difference is. I live about 3 minutes away by car and 30 mins on sled b/c we have to go the LONG way round as the back roads are pretty much bare.
Cheers,
Rick.
Hey MXD, sorry for jackin your thread.
nate007
Lifetime Member
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I run my GYTR's level to the ground, and although my springs are loose when airborne, I have put a small dab of JB Weld on the bottom washer to keep it from coming off.
In hondsight, the best thing to have done if you do want to run them level would be to have a shcok company like HYgear or Pioneer revalve the shock and put a shim pack inside the shock to limit the extension of teh shock. This is obvoiusly a permanent fix, but with a revalve, it will funtion properly.
Using whatever means necessary, I would "glue" the bottom washer down just enough so that you can grind the epoxy away if needed, and/or drill a small hole in it and safety wire it in place. I've ran 2 seasons on my sled with it lowered and only last season did I epoxy it, and never had a problem..
In hondsight, the best thing to have done if you do want to run them level would be to have a shcok company like HYgear or Pioneer revalve the shock and put a shim pack inside the shock to limit the extension of teh shock. This is obvoiusly a permanent fix, but with a revalve, it will funtion properly.
Using whatever means necessary, I would "glue" the bottom washer down just enough so that you can grind the epoxy away if needed, and/or drill a small hole in it and safety wire it in place. I've ran 2 seasons on my sled with it lowered and only last season did I epoxy it, and never had a problem..
