noob
Extreme
Tors disconnect is different on apex then rx-1. I think i've got the right wires, someone let me know for sure. it's right in front of the steering post, there's a little rubber pocket folded in half, i've disconnected the black with brown and black with white wire and plugged back into themselves. is this right?? it still runs, so i'm guessing so? any info would be good. noob
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
trx-1noob said:Tors disconnect is different on apex then rx-1. I think i've got the right wires, someone let me know for sure. it's right in front of the steering post, there's a little rubber pocket folded in half, i've disconnected the black with brown and black with white wire and plugged back into themselves. is this right?? it still runs, so i'm guessing so? any info would be good. noob
that sounds right from what i recall ...........you'll know right away if it's wrong
LOL !
Tuco
Extreme
Sounds right. You can test it by holding the pivot on the throttle from sliding in when you give it some. If it sounds normal and doesnt come up with code 84 you should be good.
ski-bum
Expert
I bypassed mine this way the other night. Throttle iced up bad and I could not get rid of the code 84 - wouldn't run at all. I bypassed using the wires you described. This got rid of the code 84 and I was able to start it and limp home, but it ran like S&*#. Ran very rough and I had to keep it above 6k rpm so it wouldn't stall. I thawed the throttle block out when I got home and reconnected the wires back to original and it runs fine now.
TORS must tied into the TPS for the injection system or something?
It would be nice to know if there is a better way to bypass if I get stranded again. Riding downhill through the trees at night without letting rpm get below 6k is no fun!
TORS must tied into the TPS for the injection system or something?
It would be nice to know if there is a better way to bypass if I get stranded again. Riding downhill through the trees at night without letting rpm get below 6k is no fun!
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
ski-bum said:I bypassed mine this way the other night. Throttle iced up bad and I could not get rid of the code 84 - wouldn't run at all. I bypassed using the wires you described. This got rid of the code 84 and I was able to start it and limp home, but it ran like S&*#. Ran very rough and I had to keep it above 6k rpm so it wouldn't stall. I thawed the throttle block out when I got home and reconnected the wires back to original and it runs fine now.
TORS must tied into the TPS for the injection system or something?
It would be nice to know if there is a better way to bypass if I get stranded again. Riding downhill through the trees at night without letting rpm get below 6k is no fun!
If you bypass tors correctly it can stay that way with no probs, and will run fine .
ski-bum
Expert
Hmmmm. I wonder if I also had snow packed around air box and wasn't getting air? It acted and smelled like it was running rich.
Turbo, are you ( or anyone else) running with TORS bypassed?
I know RX1 runs fine bypassed, but anyone actually running Apex bypassed?
Turbo, are you ( or anyone else) running with TORS bypassed?
I know RX1 runs fine bypassed, but anyone actually running Apex bypassed?
noob
Extreme
ran last saturday with tors bypassed and she ran fine all day long. ball deep powder in most places. like turbo said, should run fine if you disonnect them. where did you disconnect them at. just checking. noob
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
ski-bum said:Hmmmm. I wonder if I also had snow packed around air box and wasn't getting air? It acted and smelled like it was running rich.
Turbo, are you ( or anyone else) running with TORS bypassed?
I know RX1 runs fine bypassed, but anyone actually running Apex bypassed?
Mine's been diconnected since november .(You have to plug them back in to themselves to complete the circuit ). Don't forget to buy a tether system for safety reasons .
ski-bum
Expert
Mine started acting up again yesterday...lots of deep powder riding lately...showed a code 84. I bypassed the TORS again and it would not run at idle. seemed to run pretty smooth over about 7000 rpm, but with some pops and sputters. Did a wide open run thinking I just needed to clear it out a bit and code 15 came up at max throttle.
I am thinking the TORS issue might have fouled the plugs a bit, I will change them and see if that helps.
What is code 15 though? maybe TPS? how do I check the TPS?
3000 miles.
Thanks
I am thinking the TORS issue might have fouled the plugs a bit, I will change them and see if that helps.
What is code 15 though? maybe TPS? how do I check the TPS?
3000 miles.
Thanks
yup your TPS is bad I bet...did the same thing on my sled. Can be checked thru the gauge in 20 seconds...talk to your dealer.
ski-bum
Expert
Anybody know the part # for the TPS switch?
ski-bum
Expert
Ran the diagnostic on the TPS last night. It was way off. Closed throttle reading around 60...its supposed to be like 17. Adjusted it as far as possible and could only get it down to around 30. Open throttle was like 109. Will order a new switch I guess. Boy they dont make it easy to work on that TPS with the tamper proof screws. Where do I get one of those fancy torque bits with the hole in the tip?
Also had fouled plugs. I assume due to running too rich because of the TPS. Or maybe from the TORS acting up. Hard to tell when everything goes wrong at once.
Has anyone gotten the TPS replaced on warranty?
Also had fouled plugs. I assume due to running too rich because of the TPS. Or maybe from the TORS acting up. Hard to tell when everything goes wrong at once.
Has anyone gotten the TPS replaced on warranty?
ski-bum
Expert
I am going to switch this TPS stuff to a new thread, since this is supposed to be TORS stuff
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