Does your rear skid sit on the control rods?

[kinger]

Our rear skid on the vector doesn't seem to want to sit at 'full' height. If you grab it and lift it you can lift it up 2.5" and when looking at the control rods the space is maxxed out. When you hop on and hop back off the control rods nuts and shafts almost touch. Is that correct in most vectors? Thanks

 

[twomorestrokes]

No, your suspension needs to be set up. If your control rod gap is gone when you sit on the sled the front and rear skid shocks will be coupled immediately and cause a harsh ride. Where are your torsion spring blocks set at? This setting affects ride height not bottom out. Correct ride height is very important and other adjustments should be made around this. IMO you should have about 3" "sit in" when you mount the sled with your riding gear. Your control rod coupler gap should be about 17 mm while on the sled for good ride. Sounds like you may need more ride height in the rear? A good gas charged rear skid shock also helps.

 

[kinger]

Thats what I can't figure out we went through this whole thing last year and got it to ride ok, but it just doesn't seem right.

Current settings:

Spring block = Medium
Limiter straps in #1 hole
Anti bottom stops = Middle
control rods FULL ski pressure (ie all the up) we can see 3 threads of pink paint

When we mount the sled we have about 1.5" of sit in and the suspension sits about 1-2 mm off the control nuts.

I have a Ohlins clicker coming and we'll try that but right now were happy with the comfort but it just pulls the skis too much and makes it tippy. We had the limiter straps in the #2 hole and that helped a lot but seemed like it limited travel too much.

 

[maxdlx]

shock is bagged

 

[Oak Hill]

Try these settings and see what results you get:

1. Limiter straps in factory setting.

2. Remove Anti Bottom Stoppers.

3. Set Transfer adjustment to full Transfer.

4. Front skid shock to soft setting.

5. Rear torsion springs Med (150lbs-200lbs) High (200lbs +).

The way you have it set know it is almost coupled right from the start. More transfer, softer ride (couples later). Less transfer harsher ride (couples sooner). The Anti Bottom stops are not needed, removing them will make a hugh difference in ride. Your rear springs could be worn out also (collapsed). What is your weight dressed?

 

[twomorestrokes]

Good points. I don't see much need for the stoppers either and at the least they should be moved to the S (forward) position to not cause a harsh contact. Oak's advice is similar to the way I set mine up but I haven't changed my front skid spring tension much. I like a lot of transfer too after coming off a sled that had none to speak of. It would help to know your weight. I have my torsion blocks at H but I weigh 230. Some ski lift is always going to be there on these sleds and you need to work with it. Lift is worse if you let off the throttle. Just my personal taste but I did not like the way it felt with the straps tightened so I just lean into the corner, stay on the throttle and let the outside ski plant itself.

It's hard to give advice for someone else's setup. What works for us may not work for you but if you have a new Ohlins clicker coming, the manual that comes with the shock has very helpful information for setting things up as far as ride height and coupling gap. I went from their guidlines and was very happy with the results. Thanks Oak! (bought shock from him) The gas charged shock also gave the rear of the slid a little more height.

 

[kinger]

Thanks for the tips, like i said were not dissappointed with the ride quality were disappointed with the ski lift in corners. Weight of rider fully dressed is around 220 lbs.

The sled as 800 miles on it and were just trying to figure out if the rear shock is toast. ie no matter the setting should the skid always return to the top of the travel and if you lift on the rear bumper all you lift is the last remainign travel for the weight of sled then the whole rear end comes up??? Thanks

 

[Oak Hill]

Depending on Rear Suspension setup, the skid may not return to the top of its travel unless you lift it. Like 2morestrokes stated there will be some ski lift. Pretty much every new sled out there has ski lift, long travel and high center of gravity causes this. To eliminate ski lift altogether, remove all of the transfer and tighten limiter strap one hole from factory setting. Ski lift gone, but ride will suffer if you are looking for a plush ride!

 

[RSVECTORFREAK]

shock is bagged

I agree my rear shock is all but shot after 2 seasons.....

 

[twomorestrokes]

I think the new rear shock will help but the factory steel rear skid shock is not gas charged as far as I know so it should not effect ride height. Let us know what you see after changing your shock that you have on the way.

I still have the rear shock I took off mine if it will help anyone. Dampening capabilities of the stocker is poor enough where I'm not sure if I could tell the difference between a "good" one or a bad one.

 

[kinger]

I'll give it a whirl and see how the ohlins does. If not we'll just put the limiter strap back to #2 and that takes care of the ski lift and makes it a little more rideable. Thanks!

 

[Groomerdriver]

I'll give it a whirl and see how the ohlins does. If not we'll just put the limiter strap back to #2 and that takes care of the ski lift and makes it a little more rideable. Thanks!

what year Vector do you have? what ype of rider are you? one that wants plush or a ditchbanger?

if it's an '05, leave your limiter strap at stock, and crank up your front springs as fas as they will go. Stock front springs are too weak IMO.

if you want "plush" out of the stock skid, PM me and I'll tell you what I did and it improved the all around ride 100%

 

[kinger]

Its a 05 and its for my dad, he likes to keep up with us when were in the twisties but just can't lean hard enough to keep the skis from lifting around a corner. He is 220lbs, mild rider, not aggressive at all. He wants plush but MORE important to him right now is handling. Front springs are full hard and it helped a ton.

 

[Groomerdriver]

Its a 05 and its for my dad, he likes to keep up with us when were in the twisties but just can't lean hard enough to keep the skis from lifting around a corner. He is 220lbs, mild rider, not aggressive at all. He wants plush but MORE important to him right now is handling. Front springs are full hard and it helped a ton.

if the new front spring setting helped your Dad like it helped me (we weigh the same and it sounds like our riding styles are similar), invest in the heavier front springs which are available from Pioneer Peformance.

set your rear torsions at max hard, your transfer rods at full transfer (look closely at these rods - you can get another turn+ vs where the line is - this extra turn+ realy helps)

is it possible that one of your torsions is cracked?

Put limiter straps back at stock

Change rear POS hydraulic shock to anything else..Ohlins...Nitro shock (what I did) or whatever.

Have the front ski shocks valved 50% softer, and the new rear skid shock 50% softer. Stock Ohlins or Nytro shocks will be way too stiff for him.

Change the front track spring to am progressive rate spring - Yami dealer can help on this one.

Have front track shock revalved 50% HARDER.

You will notice a NIGHT and DAY difference in this skid if you do the above.

 

[kinger]

Awesome we'll try that set up, sounds like it will be the ticket. Thanks!