stuck drain plug !!!! HELP !

[yamadoo]

I use a different solution than Crazeone cars,

I buy the cheap sets at a flea market, then when my knuckles are bleeding and the bolt/screw/allen head is rounded I stomp around the shed screaming "CHEAP TOOLS" in a fine tone of anger.

I would think I would learn?

Am I the only one? I think NOT! LOL

Good luck with the socket driven metric hex ends

Yamadoo

 

[NB-NYTRO]

I use a different solution than Crazeone cars,

I buy the cheap sets at a flea market, then when my knuckles are bleeding and the bolt/screw/allen head is rounded I stomp around the shed screaming "CHEAP TOOLS" in a fine tone of anger.

I would think I would learn?

Am I the only one? I think NOT! LOL

Good luck with the socket driven metric hex ends

Yamadoo

ahaha... sounds like me...

 

[Fergie]

I can't remember if the shoulder of the bolt sticks down a little but if it does use visegrips with the allen. it should come out.

 

[jds1000]

I used a small length of pipe on my allen wrench and it made a loud snap when it finally let go. I can't believe it was on so tight! I wish I would have had a regular bolt to replace it with. I guess I'll have to get one for next time.

 

[Len Todd]

There have been a few reports of punching the drain bolt through the case when something was hit. The smaller the target, the harder it is to hit!

 

[LJ 452]

There have been a few reports of punching the drain bolt through the case when something was hit. The smaller the target, the harder it is to hit!

I have to aggree there. Plus if a good high quality allen wrench or socket allen is used it should never be a problem. Now that being said after several (not sure on how many) changes the bolt sould be inspected to see if it is starting to wear. If it is showing signs of wear order a new one for the next change. For most the oil change is required at the end of the year so it should last at least a few years if high quality wrenches are used. By the way it's not just the hardness of the wrench it's the precision of the size as well. Take a cheap tool and measure the size (what ever type of tool it is), do the same for a high quality tool you will see a difference.

 

[MrSled]

There have been a few reports of punching the drain bolt through the case when something was hit. The smaller the target, the harder it is to hit!

This wasn't the questions...he needed help getting the plug out not something to make him worry about the drain plug.....

 

[Len Todd]

This wasn't the questions...he needed help getting the plug out not something to make him worry about the drain plug.....

Correct me if I am wrong here; He got the bolt out and we were discussing follow-up options of what to put back in to make for easier removal next time. The option of a Cap Screw was brought up. I recalled some previous posts about not doing that.

MrSled, I guess I don't understand your point?

 

[87gtNOS]

There have been a few reports of punching the drain bolt through the case when something was hit. The smaller the target, the harder it is to hit!

ok, I haven't read this thread at all...but based on the topic and this post above....

Last year I bottomed out my sled and it hit that peice of casting that sticks down lower than the drain bolt!! The fiberglass? inspection plate had a good 'divet' in it! While I had my head under there I put a peice of rubber between the water pipe and the frame, as they touched each other on my sled. As for the inspection plate, it flattened back out ok.

Now, as for my drain bolt...I dont recall the last time I changed the oil if it was tight to get off.... BUT!! This time around, with the supplied allen key in the tool kit, I couldn't budge it! So I used the handle from a small floor jack, about 20" long for some leverage!!! It was bending the key, then it gave way!!

I always use NEW copper gaskets when doing these things. So maybe that is why theey get tight?