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Drive axle replacement

Derailed

Veteran
Joined
Dec 6, 2012
Messages
34
Location
Ontario, Canada
With 8’000km on my 2017 RTX SE I was doing the first bearing replacement and no surprisingly the drive axle has worn down about 0.025 from spinning in the bearing. It looks like I can get the axle itself for about $218.
Are there any special tricks to removing the plastic sprockets?
It looks like I should be able to just press the plastic sprockets off to the clutch side of the axle. There doesn’t appear to be any kind of snap ring or ridge that they line up against so I was just going to measure the spacing and mark them so they are clocked the same when reinstalled. Just looking to confirm there isn’t something else that needs to be done before I cause myself bigger problems.

When Installing the new axle and bearing will using a retaining compound like loctite 638 make it impossible to remove later? I’ve looked at the driveshaft saver from BOP but it’s a little pricey if the loctite will work.

FYI - bearings seemed fine at this mileage. But the axle and top drive gear in the chaincase are wore as expected.

Thanks
 

If your keeping the sled I’d get a driveshaft saver from PEFI or BOP.

Yes not much to pressing them off just be careful they deform easily. Best method I’ve found is a piece of thick walled pipe to go over the driver retaining ring,
 
You should reach out to Travis Hipshamin at Barn of Parts.He could save you a bunch of time and labor by installation of his new concept lower Driveshaft bearing repair.You can keep your existing shaft and install his custom bearing and collar assy that locks to the old drive shaft.You can call him during normal business hours .717-821-9639.The new concept cost $160 with the custom collar pressed into the ID of the new FAG bearing.Best $160 you will spend on your sled.Check into the updated Top gear by DMC (which he sells) and brass shifting forks while apart,and check the (2) tentioner screws are secure.
 

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Many many have tried loctite/retaining compound with no success. It won't hold.

Have to use BOP.
Also, plastic drive sprockets have timing marks on them. They must be installed in time w each other. Service manual show correct dimensions/spacing.
 
Many many have tried loctite/retaining compound with no success. It won't hold.

Have to use BOP.
Also, plastic drive sprockets have timing marks on them. They must be installed in time w each other. Service manual show correct dimensions/spacing.
Is the timing relative to the axle or just the sprockets to each other? Service manual says to scribe a mark on the axle next to the timing arrows but marking the old axle won’t do me any good for the new one.

Thanks
 
Is the timing relative to the axle or just the sprockets to each other? Service manual says to scribe a mark on the axle next to the timing arrows but marking the old axle won’t do me any good for the new one.

Thanks

to each other. when they are not timed to each other the sprockets no longer line up.
 
just make sure you are not pressing on anything other than the sprocket collars. The pipe @NYTurbo mentioned, or even the plates typically found on a press are fine as long as they are on the collar and no other part of the sprocket.
 
All,

Thanks for the advice with pressing the sprockets.

Sidewinder 2018,

I did look at the Driveshaft Repair Bearing BOP has, my concern is that by eliminating the clip that the bearing sits against isn’t it possible the driveshaft could move and wear inside the chain case if the set screws became loose or if it’s installed in the wrong location? Also the bearing collar would have a gap between where the bearing sits and the worn shaft so is there not some higher potential of bending/warping the shaft or collar? Having some issues with the BOP site right now.
 
All,

Thanks for the advice with pressing the sprockets.

Sidewinder 2018,

I did look at the Driveshaft Repair Bearing BOP has, my concern is that by eliminating the clip that the bearing sits against isn’t it possible the driveshaft could move and wear inside the chain case if the set screws became loose or if it’s installed in the wrong location? Also the bearing collar would have a gap between where the bearing sits and the worn shaft so is there not some higher potential of bending/warping the shaft or collar? Having some issues with the BOP site right now.
Travis has an earlier thread on the issues you bring up.There has been no evidence of wear on the snap ring,indicating any movement of the brake side bearing towards the snap ring.As far as driveshaft laterally moving sideways,the is a shoulder and snap ring on the chain case side. There was a third cupped Allen screw that was also added to prevent slippage.And adding loctite to the 3 screws.My post was intended to save you the cost of another shaft and removal of your drive sprockets. Travis could address any concerns by calling him.good luck for a great season
 

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Your options are;

Replace the driveshaft which you are already doing + buy the driveshaft saver (BOP) which you *should* do.
Repair the driveshaft (weld or spray weld and then turn on lathe) + buy the driveshaft saver (BOP)
Buy the driveshaft repair kit from BOP

All will result in a longer lasting driveshaft, all three options revolve around 1 of the 2 solutions (driveshaft saver or driveshaft bearing repair kit).

He ships to Canada pretty quickly and inexpensively as well.
 
The driveshaft saver does make a lot of sense so that the bearing is functioning as intended.

What were the failures that the axle wear was causing?

Like even spinning inside the bearing this one lasted me 8000km I’d imagine it could have gone longer. I’m just wondering is it something where a noise or something is noticeable before it goes or is it a sudden catastrophic failure?

FYI mainly asking because I also have a viper for the wife.
 


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